Build your own seed drill

[Jeff B]

Has anyone built their own seed drill/ notill ? I was thinking about building something to seed my yard with. I have an aeriator (6 ft. 3 pt. hitch) but I need a seed hopper for the seeds. Any thoughts?

 

[Renze]

the cheapest way is my granddad's way: a zinc tub and a belt to hang it around your neck.
It takes a bit of adjustment, but once you've set it up it works perfectly, at an unbeatable price/performance ratio.

If you're looking for a higher capacity, try a fertiliser spreader.

 

[Z-Michigan]

Most grass seed needs to be buried only 1/8 to 1/4" deep, with some types up to 1/2" deep. This is pretty shallow and will require precision. On bare dirt, I think it could be done reasonably using gage wheels. BUT - are you trying to overseed into sparse grass? That may be more difficult.

I don't think the aerator will be a good starting point. I think you could do something using tiny chisel points or small discs to open a furrow in the 1/4" deep range and then have a little chute to put seed in, and a press wheel to close the furrow. A cultipacker can work as the press wheel. It will take some work to build. You might want to look at either professional seed drills for grass or at gardener type seed drills for garden quantities of row crops to get some ideas.

If you like this as a design and build challenge - great! If you just want your lawn seeded, forget it. Instead, harrow the lawn with a chain or tine harrow, broadcast seed (with a push spreader, 3pt spreader, or by hand) then harrow again or use a cultipacker, water and you should be done. Don't do anything too aggressive after broadcasting seed, it's easy to bury the seed too deep for it to grow well or at all.

Another alternative to just get the job done - level the lawn with whatever implement you want or already own, broadcast seed on the surface, then spread straw or another mulch that grass seedlings can grow through, and water. This is what a lot of pros do for lawns. It works pretty well, actually, as long as the soil is not compacted solid. (Unfortunately it is often used around new tract homes where building codes require soil to be compacted thoroughly, which is good for stability in the short term but terrible for getting grass to grow.)

 

[Huskerplowboy]

A traditional drill will put the seeds down in rows, which makes for a funny looking yard for the first year or so. Its fine for wheat, oats, etc out in a field, but not necessarily for a lawn. Something like a fertilizer spreader, drop spreader, etc avoids the rows, although dragging a spike harrow over the seed may cause some stripes...

 

[BTDT]

I wonder if a leaf blower with a pick-up tube (think pressure washer with a soap attachment) stuck down into the bag of seed would work. But as some have said, probably just a broadcast spreader (maybe towed behind a riding mower?). Good luck and post back with pics.

 

[diyDave]

Find a grass seed box off of an old grain drill, rig a chain drive off the aerator and viola!

 

[Harry c]

I just re-seeded my lawn after zapping the obnoxious Common Bermuda (appropriately known around here as Wiregrass) with Ornamec. I mowed as close to the ground as possible. I used a pull behind broadcast spreader and put down fertilizer and grass seed, then proceeded to brutilize the surface with my 4' wide, 3pt coring aerator. 2 weeks later, I got grass! It grew thickest where I made the most passes with the aerator. I made it a point to go back and forth on any hard or bare spots. I'm hesitant to kill all the grass with a non-selective or to do any serious tillage due to the slope and lots of surface run-off if it ever rains again!

 

[Toolguy]

I have thought about building something to overseed in thin areas of an existing lawn. I have my eye out for about a 4' section of rotary hoe. They were common many years ago and used for the first cultivation of corn to fight back the weeds when the corn was only a couple of inches tall. Modern herbicides have made them obsolete. I think it would work great to rough up the ground a little without tearing out all of the old grass. I also have the idea of taking a seeder box from an old grain drill and mounting behind the rotary hoe. Behind that i would put a small diameter roller so that in one pass the ground would be ripped, seeded and pressed. The step prior to this would be to mow the grass very short and rake or vacuum up the grass and thatch. The existing grass should make a good cover for the new seed to sprout and grow. I think this would work, but I have yet to find the parts I need to make it. Granted, I haven't looked to hard yet but it is something I would like to do if I run across what I am looking for.

For new lawns someone has mentioned working the ground, sowing the seed and then covering it with straw. I have had the best luck planting new grass with that method. Good luck.

 

[Monstertorque]

Just a tip that may be helpful Choose an appropriate sized container for the amount of grass seed you plan to sow (5 gallon bucket, 55 gallon drum, etc). Place the seed in the container and cover it with water. Stir the container everytime you go by. Water will get black and smell kinda bad. Drain dark water and refill with fresh water. Continue stirring draining & refilling until a day or so before planting time. Drain off excess water, spread seed on clean concrete or black plastic. Use a broom to move seed around until seed is dry. Rebag seed. You have just washed away most if not all of the growth retarder that the manufacturer puts on the seed to prevent sprouting in the bag. Spread the seed with your choice of method. Lightly rake seed into soil. Roll seeded area with roller, tractor, truck, etc. Mulch lightly with straw (hay will work but has lots of weed seeds). Water lightly. You will have grass growing up through the mulch in 3 to 4 days.

 

[diyDave]

I've been seeding lawns for going on 20 years now, and that's the first time that I have heard of a "growth retarder" being put on grass seed! What you really are doing by soaking and stirring is "forcing" the seed (to germinate). This technique does work, but you will need to use it right away, and open your spreader slightly more to compensate for the swelled up seed.

 

[prathap]

I want manufacture of tractor driven seed drill and also sell

 

[BHD]

for fluffy grass seed a drop seeder most likely will work best, the small hard seed a regular or small seed attachment is most likely best, or a small broadcast spreader,

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for the DIY builder most likely the biggest difficulty is the metering system.

I came across a few simple units that others have made or are selling, and will post below for some possible idea,

this is a garden planter that uses dimples on a shaft as the meter system and a brush,
Four-row Pinpoint Seeder - YouTube

this one uses a cupped disk, much like a elevator cup, would work for fluffy seeds and large seeds,
Seed Drill - YouTube

I thought this was creative, plastic bottles for seed reservoirs and a wood frame
http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=69850&page=2
http://www.mytractorforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=56820&d=1229135274

crustbuster uses on this system a slot
http://www.crustbuster.com/images/no-till-drills-and-planters/Wobble-Slot-Single-Seed-Placement.jpg

I have thought the paddy seeders were ingenious
http://www.ksnm.co.in/upload/blog/51815direct-paddy-seeder-1010813.jpg
a very simple concept and could be adapted to a furrow type with a funnel type catch under it and a drop tube,

the old wheel barrow seeder,
Digitization Projects Philologic Results
pictures
http://lincoln.lib.niu.edu/fimage/lincolnimages/ardrey025a.jpg
how the seeder worked was a thin wood plate in the bottom of the box that shifted right and left, moving the seed over the hole to drop, the arms one can see, hit the spokes that shift the plate,
another design used a small disk that was bent right and left, and it had a arm that would shift the seed plate with wobble disk, (much like this wavy coulter, http://www.gwtillage.com.au/images_product/coulters_wavy.jpg) my guess is there were different disks one put on to adjust the seeding rate,

 

[Redneck in training]

There wa sa thread on TBN several years back about grass seeder. The guy used rubber impelers from a boat engine water pump rotating in a plasic tube metering the seed.

 

[flusher]

I built this drop seeder a few years ago. Used a pair of 5-ft wide grass seed boxes from an old Minneapolis Moline P3-6 grain drill.



I use it to plant grass seed mixes as cover crop on my hayfield.

Just welded up a frame from 2x2 inch square tubing, added the 3-pt hitch connection to the frame and bolted the boxes onto the frame.

The two-bounce seed chute on the output ends of the drop tubes spreads the seed out more or less uniformly in a line so you don't get the seed planted in rows with 6-inch separation, which is what you get without the seed chute.

The feeds are driven with a simple #40 chain, sprocket and drive wheel setup.

It's designed to be used after the hayfield has been worked over with a disc harrow and then grooved with
a cultipacker. I press the seed into the soil with a 10-ft wide roller.

It takes 3 passes over the hayfield using this method. Right now I'm building a 10-row no-till drill to do the job in one pass with no tilling or cultipacking required.

Good luck with your project.

 

[OldMcDonald]

There wa sa thread on TBN several years back about grass seeder. The guy used rubber impelers from a boat engine water pump rotating in a plasic tube metering the seed.

TractorByNet.com - Compact Tractor Forum is the link to the the thread. Bill Spurlock made it, and BHD gave the link on another thread last year.