Budget angling for B2672

[db236591]

Hi everyone,

I purchased a BX2380 about 18 months ago, and it's been a great tractor. I have the 60" mmm, loader with quick attach, and a B2672 blade with manual angling. With my second winter coming up, I'd like to add power angling to the blade. We don't get that much snow so it's more of a nice to have. I'm an experienced auto mechanic but haven't done a ton of machinery/hydraulic work, so I want to see if there's something obvious I'm missing. I see a few ways to do this:

1) Buy the Kubota 3rd function kit (bx2412, ~$600) and the blade angulation kit (B2671, ~$600) - this would be the easiest but big $$$.
2) Buy the Kubota rear remote kit (bx2419, ~$300), some long hoses, and the blade angulation kit (B2671, ~$600) - getting cheaper but still decent money
3) Buy the rear remote kit and a cheap hydraulic cylinder and do it myself - leaning this way.

My challenge is finding a cylinder that will fit into the space on the blade. There is a post on here that shows the assembly I'm trying to replicate but I can't post links yet. Most cylinders I've found from surplus center or places like that have the hydraulic lines exiting the cylinder perpendicular to the mounting pin direction. Does anyone have any suggestions or recommendations on how to get this done relatively cheaply?

 

[Dave M7040]

Use a 12 volt hydraulic selector valve to split your bucket hydraulic circuit into two selectable ones.

One for the bucket cylinders and then when switched, the power angling.

Mount the selector valve on the loader cross frame and then hoses are short and less expensive

6.6 GPM 12 Volt DC Double Selector Valve DFE | Walvoil | Brands | www.surpluscenter.com

Dave M7040

 

[GordonE]

I own a BX2380 with an RB0560 rear blade. I recently added hydraulic capability to the rear blade. I already had a set of rear remotes. One used for hydraulic top link and the other is used for the hydraulic capability on the rear blade now.


The hydraulic cylinder is a Wolverine 1.5 inch x 12 in. Swivel end (Surplus Center carries them). 3/4 inch holes in the swivel ends.

Too change direction of plowing you remove the large linch pin, rotate blade by hand and reattach on other side.

The 3/4 inch holes in the 4x9 plate line up with the center line of the plow rotating hub.

1 Welded 3/4 inch rod with 1/4 inch hole at top for linch pin at tractor end of plow frame for one end of the cylinder.
2. Added two plates 4x9.5 x 3/8 to plow end of frame. Plates have two holes to attach to the plow frame, Plow frame has two holes drilled (countersunk) on each side to line up with plate holes. Plates had a 3/4 inch driller hole with a 1 inch OD x 3/4 inch ID x 3 inch tube welded to line up with 3/4 inch hole. 1/4 inch hole in tube at bottom for 1/4 inch linch pin.
3 Attached other end of cylindar to hole in plate with large 3/4 inch linch pin. Also has collet to hold cylinder end a couple of inch from plate.

My routing of the hydraulic lines has to be changed. They get squished when I raise the 3 pt hitch.

 

[GordonE]

One more picture to show the whole setup.

 

[BX23S-1]

One more picture to show the whole setup.


View attachment 630521

That`s a VERY nice set-up you`ve got there. What did all that cost you to add it to the rear blade (?)
I wish now that i had the dealer put the added front & rear remotes in when i bought the tractor new. A project for a later date i guess.

 

[GordonE]

That`s a VERY nice set-up you`ve got there. What did all that cost you to add it to the rear blade (?)
I wish now that i had the dealer put the added front & rear remotes in when i bought the tractor new. A project for a later date i guess.

Cost

1 Pair of rear remotes from Kubota installed $850 Can Should be alot less in in US dollars and in the USA
2 2 plates 4x9.5, 1 3/4 x 3 inch rod, 2 hollow rod 1OD x 3/4ID x 3 inch long $20 from Metal Supermarket
3 Misc Nuts bolts and linch pins $20
4 Hydraulic lines two $50
5 Hydraulic cylindar $285 Can Available from Surplus Centre for $120 US plus shipping and taxes

 

[LouNY]

That will make your blade much handier to use.
I do have one question, on the rear cylinder pin how is that secured,
is there a double yoke that is not visible or a welded pin?
There can be considerable force applied to it.

 

[GordonE]

That will make your blade much handier to use.
I do have one question, on the rear cylinder pin how is that secured,
is there a double yoke that is not visible or a welded pin?
There can be considerable force applied to it.

The end of the cylinder that is closest to the tractor goes into a 3/4 inch pin that has been welded to the frame of the plow support. What I forgot to mention is that the 3/4 inch pin is made from a 1.25 inch rod about 3 inches long. I turned it down on a lathe so 2.75 inches is 3/4 inches in diameter and the bottom is still 1.25 inches in diameter. The 1.25 inch diameter section is the end welded to the plow support. As you say I was concerned about forces on the pin so I made the welded end a little stronger.

 

[db236591]

Hey Dave, that valve looks really interesting. I'd seen kits but nothing nearly that inexpensive. I think I'll take a look and see if I can mock something up using that valve. I guess the second part of my question still remains though. The blade I have expects the hydraulic connections to run vertically, parallel with the mounting pins, but the cylinders I see on surplus center have the hydraulic ports perpendicular to the mounting pins. I think I'll have to make a mockup for that too and see if I can get fittings in that space without potentially pinching at full blade travel.

 

[db236591]

Gordon, that's a really nice setup. I should've been more specific, I'm talking about a quick-attach front blade that goes out on my loader arms. I do like what you did there though.