brush tree cutter

[dirt clod]

How well would this work????

modify a bush hog so that a cover on the rear can be raised up like on the big tree cutters to allow cutting small trees and instead of having 2 swing blades have 4,6 or maybe 8 standard swing blades so that each blade would take less of a bite? Blades could even have a saw pattern cut on end to allow for even more small multi bites.Wheels could be mounted one on each side of the bush hog like they are on the pull behind atv mowers. Maybe even a push bar on top to insure trees fall away from tractor.As such it wouldn't be anything new just a combination of other designs........ multi-blades like a flail cutter, blades notched like a gator mower blade, side wheels like pull mower, rear opens like tree cutter hogs, push bar like the tree hog cutter.
should make for relatively safe method of removing small trees that a compact would normally not be able to do as well as items cut smaller IMHO.

 

[Carykong]

get a chainsaw,my friend

 

[dave1949]

Sounds interesting, you still have to drive over whatever you are cutting. That seems like you would start beating up the bottom of your engine, steering, etc.

Have you checked out forestry clearing saws? Husky and Stihl both make them. Like a weed whacker, you don't need to bend over for every blessed sapling.

Dave.

 

[hd5]

I think I know what you are talking about, I intended to try to make one a few years ago and didn't do it. I was going to take a wore out bush hog a modify it by exposing part of the blades. You would have to be careful and it sounds dangerous....

As far as driving over stuff I had planned on only backing into brush.
I think he is talking about cutting more brush than you want to tackle with a chainsaw or brushcutter.

 

[teg]

http://www.brownmfgcorp.com/cutter/TCF.html

You mean like this one?

 

[dave1949]

http://www.brownmfgcorp.com/cutter/TCF.html

You mean like this one?

Wow, mean set of specs on this beast!

 

[Taylortractornut]

I helped make one my 3rd year in metal shop in votech 12 years ago. An old man we made several items over those 4 years had bought a heavy Woods cutter and had us look at a Brown cutter. We made a solid stump jumper out of 1 1/4 inch plate with 4 blades and cut the back out of deck and trimmed the cut with heavy tubing. Then we found some ssprings to make the shock absorber bumper and also over the deck we made a screened cage looking apperatus that was adjustable for a sapling pusher. It took our class about 2 months to make. We also put the 2 tail wheels on an also a place for 2 front corner wheels for field work. What he did was back into the saplings and let it ct them off at the base and then walk them over mowing the limbs that were up in the air. That left a nice mat for driving over and later would burn easily. We do this with our tractors here but chain saw them and when they fall mow the limbs.
He cleared 25 acres of saplins like this with his Votech mower.

 

[dirt clod]

thats what i'm talking about Taylortractornut.
clearing old fences and clearing for cross fencing is more than I want to use my sthil brushcutter or chain saw on 160 acres. Anymore details you can give me?

 

[Taylortractornut]

Not really many more details, we basically just copied a Brown cutter. One thing we did later was the adjustable sceen on the back. We put a cylinder on it and made 4 curved rake teeth to make it help pull the tangled saplings down if their tops got hung in others.

 

[BHD]

this is close to what one described,

Pictures
similar but no push bar,
Rotary Cutters



some other ideas
Tree Cutters

Kansas Klipper on TAS Loader - Kansas Klipper

Tree Saw - Skid Steer Tree Saw - Tractor Saw- Turbo Saw Tree Cutter- Tree Removal
about the middle of the pictures
Yadkin Forestry & Realty, PLLC

 

[have_blue]

thats what i'm talking about Taylortractornut.
clearing old fences and clearing for cross fencing is more than I want to use my sthil brushcutter or chain saw on 160 acres. Anymore details you can give me?

Removing a section from the rear of a bush hog weakens it, so you'll have to be thinking about reinforcing the top and sides of the deck.

It's amazing how inefficient bush hogs are. Most of the tractor's power is used to grind and re-grind the brush. Direct contact with sharpened and relieved blade edges is far more efficient, and if designed well, would cut 6" trees like butter. You could even cut them flush with the ground.

If you could find a big old rusty saw blade junked by a mill, it would work great. It wouldn't have to be in good shape. Cross cutting is not even work for a 40hp tractor and saw blade.

 

[The Haymaker]

Knowing this probably isn't what you're looking for, but several years ago there was a local guy marketing a blade for skidsteers. It was nothing more than a 4 or 5 foot long triangle mounted to the front of the skid', flat to the ground. The edges of the triangle had a blade. You just drove up to the tree applying pressure and the cutting edge sheared the tree off.

No moving parts!

I'd install some sort of bar 3 or 4 feet above the cutting edge to lean trees outward and prevent falling on the tractor, like what the skidsteer mounted hammermills use.

For alders and other smaller stuff, I've had excellent luck pushing back tree lines I've had excellent luck using my forks. Put them withing a few inches of each other and puching them a few inches under the soil. Go in and under the root ball at a slight down angle, then once you know you're under it continue driving in and tilt the forks up. Once 1/2 way, roll forks forward, lift, and drive forward slowly all in one motion. This way you aren't lifting, just using leverage to roll the roots out of the ground. Pop! I've used this on Alders, locus, and an 8" round cherry.

 

[dirt clod]

Knowing this probably isn't what you're looking for, but several years ago there was a local guy marketing a blade for skidsteers. It was nothing more than a 4 or 5 foot long triangle mounted to the front of the skid', flat to the ground. The edges of the triangle had a blade. You just drove up to the tree applying pressure and the cutting edge sheared the tree off.

No moving parts!

I'd install some sort of bar 3 or 4 feet above the cutting edge to lean trees outward and prevent falling on the tractor, like what the skidsteer mounted hammermills use.

For alders and other smaller stuff, I've had excellent luck pushing back tree lines I've had excellent luck using my forks. Put them withing a few inches of each other and puching them a few inches under the soil. Go in and under the root ball at a slight down angle, then once you know you're under it continue driving in and tilt the forks up. Once 1/2 way, roll forks forward, lift, and drive forward slowly all in one motion. This way you aren't lifting, just using leverage to roll the roots out of the ground. Pop! I've used this on Alders, locus, and an 8" round cherry.

I've seen those. I have a contract with CRP through there EQUIP program. Bottom line they are paying for improvements to my land and as such I have to follow there rules. One of which is I have to leave stumps/roots, but can cut any tree I wish to do.

 

[whistlepig]

Wow, mean set of specs on this beast!

These work very well. I have seen them used. Takes a heck of a tractor to handle one.

 

[The Haymaker]

I've seen those. I have a contract with CRP through there EQUIP program. Bottom line they are paying for improvements to my land and as such I have to follow there rules. One of which is I have to leave stumps/roots, but can cut any tree I wish to do.

Off topic, but why must the stumps stay if it is your turf?

 

[dirt clod]

It is a cost share program to conserve natural resources. I have a lot of wetland and spring fed creek. There basic goal is to prevent soil erosion into water. The root stock is what prevents erosion. Frankly If I was not in this contract I would still want to do as such. Its way more work/expense to fix erosion than to prevent. They are cost sharing 90% of what they say should cost to pay someone to complete project. By doing myself there reimbursement should pay for my costs.

 

[LBrown59]

why must the stumps stay if it is your turf?

I must admit the answer to your question has me stumped

 

[rj's barn]

What I did when I was young and brave was take a piece of 1/2 inch plate and cut a giant square that is close to the inner diameter of the brush hog, cut holes as close to the center as you can get em to keep it sorta balanced. Mount that to the disk on the brush hog and be extremely careful. I cut a divot on the right side rear of the cutter next to the tail wheel to give the sapling a place to hit the "blade". I never used any kind of push bar aparatus because I was young, brave, and indestructible. If I were you I'd rig up some kind of push bar to make the tree fall away from you. I was taking down some good size saplings with my old 9n with that rig bolted to the bottom of a 6ft cyclone rotary cutter. You probably have a rig with a lower reverse gear so you wont have to ram the tree 5 or 6 times to get it to fall.