Broken Front Axle

[Wayne_Freeman]

I have over torqued my 284 4wd and damaged the front axle. I have removed both front wheels and axle housings. The right side drive gear in the Standing Shaft Housing has a broken tooth as you can see in the picture. However, when I rotate the shaft that goes into the main housing it does not rotate smoothly either direction. Got a feeling this is not going to be fun. Before going any further I would like some opinions on how to proceed? I am going to try and include the pic of the shaft I am now rotating that goes into the main housing. This shaft slides in/out easily and the teeth on both ends look fine. Thanks for your help.

 

[Wayne_Freeman]

Here is the pic of the shaft that goes into the main housing. Like I said earlier, it slides right out and the splines on both ends look fine. I am beginning to feel like I have bumped into my mechanical limit and may consider pulling the axle, putting it on a pallet and ship it to someone close to South Carolina. I appreciate any words of wisdom.
Wayne Freeman

 

[dpl96]

OUCH !!! I'm sorry but that is what comes immediately to mind.

 

[SevenCorners]

Wayne,
How do you think this happened?

 

[SevenCorners]

Never mind I read a couple of posts down and found out.

 

[JohnS]

Wayne,

Sorry to hear about about this happening to your tractor. I would be interested in more details on how it happened. If posted on another forum/site, please just provide the link. No need to retype it here. Thanks.

 

[Wayne_Freeman]

It may be of some benefit to detail how to over torque your front axle. On this particular day I was moving rip rap (big chunks of concrete and mud) preparing to pour a boat ramp in my back yard. Working a loader while picking up material is all a function of forward speed and bucket manipulation. You can slow down and work the curl and lift to pick up almost anything. The stuff I was working was heavy, muddy and tough. I started using L1 approaching the material and slowly manipulate the bucket in order to work the material into the bucket. This really turns into a dozer function at some point. Anyway, it was the only way I was able to make any progress. Should have called my buddy with the big back hoe! I was almost finished when I heard the pop sound under the tractor. I knew what I was doing overstressed the front axle and got that feeling like now I did it. To make a long story short I damaged the front axle. So far I have a busted gear on the left housing but the main case has to be dropped today because I have a feeling something is busted in there also. I have no doubt this is a self inflicted mechanical failure. Now I gotta get her fixed because spring in South Carolina is right around the corner. I will post here and CTOA as repairs proceed.

 

[JohnS]

Wayne,

Thanks. Yes, I am just trying to understand what and how you were doing it, such that I don't end up with same results. I will say, up to this point, I have always used 4wd when using fel for gravel and dirt digging/loading. Most of the time it has been topsoil or gravel, nothing with large boulders or cement slabs. Where possible, I'll be using 2wd, now. But when I'm on inclines I like to use 4wd.

If you have the time, I do have a few more questions. I am just trying to get a rough idea of where the safe zone is:

I think this is tractor configuration, but please confirm:

-284LE
-Koyker 160 FEL
-Ag tires
-Standard Shift, not shuttle
-Clutch disk type brakes, not drum style

Did you sense anything wrong before the pop? ie something just not right but couldn't put your finger on it. ie something happen just before, and popping was just the gear breaking.

Where you pushing an almost imovable object when it popped?

or did you have a full bucket load and where moving it, when it popped?

If the latter, were you also turning the wheels at the same time?

Also, if the latter, whould you say the bucket had over 1000lbs in it?

It sounds like wet conditions where the wheels should have spun or possibly not in the particular location where it broke?

Does the Koyker FEL have the 1 3/4" or 2" cylinders?

How if the FEL plumbed? Direct inline like ZL20 or post the diverter valve?

Thanks for any additional input. Please keep us abreast of your progress on fixing it. Pictures are always welcome.

PS:If your inspection reveals other areas of damage, it might be better to just replace the whole front axle.

 

[SteveP]

Hi Wayne, I do have a compete brand new front axle for a 284. I thought I broke mine and all the problem was that the ball bearing came out of the shaft. Call me for more info at 1-631-736-1400. Thanks.

 

[Wayne_Freeman]

Here is a pic of the material I was moving. It was probably much to heavy for my 284. I think the damage occurred while inching forward and lifting. That is just too much torque on the front axle!

 

[Wayne_Freeman]

Here is a pick of the main axle with the top cover removed.

 

[Wayne_Freeman]

Here is a pic of the damage inside the main gear box. There is a differential side gear and driving bevel gear with busted teeth. I would prefer to get this done right the first time and am looking for someone to ship it to for repair. Right now it is broken down and can be easily shipped in several boxes or palletized. I am looking for someone within driving distance of coastal South Carolina first then if that turns up nothing I will ship it. Anybody have any suggestions or words of wisdom?

 

[Harrygoodwrench]

Wayne, I think any halfway competent mechanic with transmissions and differentials could do this. I know without doubt I could do that but I'm far away in NY. Hopefully someone can help you that is closer. I had a little trouble seeing the damage in your pic but no doubt you are correct.

Just for ya yas I attached a pic with a parts ID on these Jinma front diffs I made up when one of the guys I helped via e mail rebuild. So far so good. He did real well and really had no experience but never gave up.

 

[Wayne_Freeman]

Harry,

That is a good pic you attached. My pic is actually showing the spider gears where I can see two gears will definately have to be replaced. I am an average mechanic but realize this type of repair can either be done right or you go back for a second round. Spring is on the way and the fish will begin to bite and I don't want to be working on my tractor!

 

[JimR]

The cross shaft pin is usually held in with a blind bolt. Removing this will allow the pin to be knocked out and the two spider gears can then be removed by rotating them on the side gears. The side gears are usually held in by a c-clip on most rear ends. I cannot tell on yours from the picture. There should also be bearing washers behind all four of the gears. I would replace these also since you are in there. Make sure you get all the metal out of the housing and differential unit. Otherwise you will be doing this again. I would do it for you if I lived closer.

 

[Affordable]

Wayne,I know a dealer that has the new differ.housing complete,if you may want to go that way.It may be cheaper than shipping back and forth.I will let you know later today.I have some coming in also but will be a few weeks

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales

 

[MarkNHow]

I was the one who replaced the gears in my front end. I have been very slow about getting instructions out but if you decide to rebuild I could get you the pictures and some instructions. Harry was a big help or I never would have tackled the job.

If you are going to replace the parts I would check on pricing. One part I needed to order was $180 at 1 place and $60 at another.

Mark H