Broke my mower

woodlandfarms · Nov 26, 2013

The ear that comes off the cross arm and connects to the deck broke at the bottom where it connects to the deck. Stress got it... Debating wether to weld it back together or order a new one or have a new one bent at the steel shop. Probably going to weld but opinions are not a bad thing on this.

cqaigy2 · Nov 26, 2013

Can you post a picture? Maybe make something like upside down T to spread load out.

MossRoad · Nov 27, 2013

Weld and add a couple of gussets.

Gary Fowler · Nov 27, 2013

I would make a reinforcement pad maybe 4"x4", weld it to the deck, then weld a stronger piece to the repad. Weight distribution is the key and of course heavier components. Make sure any connecting pieces have sufficient strength to handle the load or that will be the next failure.

woodlandfarms · Dec 2, 2013

So here are pix of the break. I have welded it back up and feel pretty good about the results but ran out of daylight. Will post pix of final repair tomorrow.

Some important notes. The other ear, which I have a picture of here, exhibited initial cracking.

one of the three bolts that held the ear to the deck was loose. Not sure how in the heck that could happen, and it is something I have never tested for. Might have helped in the failure department.

I am abusive to this tractor and its gear. Lots of surpises on my property that I run into (stress on ears and cross bar). Also I sometimes mow in float instead of draft to get a lower cut, I think it puts some stress on the mower when turning.

MossRoad · Dec 2, 2013

I'd put a couple triangles of steel perpendicular to the horizontal and vertical plates as a gusset. One between the center and each outside bolt should do it. Then it would probably never crack again.

woodlandfarms · Dec 2, 2013

This is the end result. Paint always makes a weld look better. I did double side the weld, and then gusseted

MossRoad · Dec 2, 2013

You weld just like me..... (that's not a compliment :laughing

cqaigy2 · Dec 3, 2013

Bless you, i don't feel so bad about my welds now.

Never the less, it looks like it should do the job. Maybe next time you could use a little more heat.

woodlandfarms · Dec 3, 2013

Yeah... Funny my other welds look a lot better.... I am still figuring out this Lincoln mig. I am realizing I have some issues with the front settings. Complete beps on the nobs. No way to set by voltage... Just by abcdefg.

MossRoad · Dec 3, 2013

I've got a little 110V Hobat wire feed welder that has a chart inside the door. You pick the thickness of the steel, read the chart for the settings, set the two knobs and it works surprisingly well. I haven't set it up for MIG yet. But it sure beats the stick welder for quick repairs. I still use the stick for thick stuff and rusty stuff.

cqaigy2 · Dec 3, 2013

Man im feeling like a rube, i only have a 40year old 220 tombstone lincoln arc my Dad bought. It needed the fan fixed and the nylon in the knob/switch assembly swelled so much it kept the contacts from touching. For some strange reason, i had a motor that fit with little modification for the fan fix and for the knob, file and sand paper. 100% duty cycle at 70 amps, so i could weld all day, that is if i could weld all day.

woodlandfarms · Dec 3, 2013

If it wasn't for my wife I would still be using my tombstone. Honestly I kinda like it more than my Mig. Probably cause i have run a lot of rod on it.

2 things. Yeah the chart exists but when I am talking with pro welders, trying to learn, they are always talking voltage. Also, my chart says A to F but my nob goes to H. No explanation. Feels like I am in a Welders Spinal Tap.

2nd is my biggest problem with welding is seeing. This has always been an issue. I need to get a real shop first, then work on some lighting. I think if I brought up my ambient my work wouldn't be such a disaster. I am so worried about following the metal I ignore the puddle. That is what happened on that first weld.

MossRoad · Dec 3, 2013

Do you have an auto-darkening helmet?

woodlandfarms · Dec 4, 2013

Eyup. Harbor Freight and a Hobart (I think same manufacturer). I also use a doubler which has helped and I don't have my face deep in the metal. But still. I just can't seem to see the seam where I want to weld. Nothing worse than flipping your mask off and seeing your catepillar wandering away from the joint.

MossRoad · Dec 4, 2013

Have you tried pushing the weld instead of pulling it?

woodlandfarms · Dec 4, 2013

Hmmm. was about to say it was a push but now not so sure. I do know my welding doesn't improve either way in terms of seeing where I am going. It may also just be concentration that I am lacking in the end.

Truth is I need a real welding lesson. I have had experts teach me but it at 15 minutes a throw. And they are experts (Underwater pro welder, machinist, mechanics).

SpringHollow · Dec 4, 2013

I have trouble seeing when i weld as well. I lighten the shade setting more than I used to and that helps. My cheater lenses (the "doublers" you use) help as well. I should also shine halogen work lights on the project but I never do.

Ken

woodlandfarms · Dec 4, 2013

I lightened up as well and it really hurt my eyes. This is the dilemma. Next weld bringing out the work lights and lets see what happens....

stuckmotor · Dec 4, 2013

I have trouble seeing the seam I'm trying to weld too, especially with rods smaller than 1/8". Welding sideways instead of pulling the rod toward me seems to help.