Branson/TYM

[CloverKnollFarms]

I don’t buy, to sell... And the selling point of a Kukje diesel, is the same selling point for a pre tier 4 tractor. I plan to run this tractor as long as I’m physically able, so resale is not an issue. It’s not an investment, it’s just a tool. And seeing as though it’s the ONLY non ECM tier 4 on the market, gives it value… like a pre tier 4 has

 

[HawkinsHollow]

No. I also don’t have ballasted tires, which would provide more weight. It is a stock, no ballast unit and I don’t have traction issues. Someday I’ll probably fill the rear tires, but at this time I don’t see the need. I’ve also never needed to use the FWD.

Yep, no ballast here either. I have only ever been stuck once and it was my fault not the tractors. I am seriously considering adding ballast to my tires soon. I will be handling heavy logs now that I have a sawmill and the added stability and piece of mind might be nice.

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

I don’t do loader work at this point, if I began pulling a furrow plow, yeah I may ballast it. I don’t think people realize how heavy these things are.

 

[HawkinsHollow]

I don’t buy, to sell... And the selling point of a Kukje diesel, is the same selling point for a pre tier 4 tractor. I plan to run this tractor as long as I’m physically able, so resale is not an issue. It’s not an investment, it’s just a tool. And seeing as though it’s the ONLY non ECM tier 4 on the market, gives it value… like a pre tier 4 has

No, I did not buy it with resale in mind either. And you make an excellent point about the emissions, thanks for that!

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

No, I did not buy it with resale in mind either. And you make an excellent point about the emissions, thanks for that!

Yeah, in a few years… pre tier 4 will not be an option. A non ECM tier 4 will take its place as the most reliable power plant. And there is only one. LS can keep their EGRs and sensors and limp mode. If you have fuel and a glow plug, the Branson will run.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

I have ballast (Rimguard) in my rear tires, and I always have something on the 3 pt hitch as well. I do various odd loader work and randomly have to lift objects from the "not very heavy" class, all the way up to the "nope, can't lift this one" class. Currently the heaviest 3 pt attachment I have is my 6' snow blower, which weighs almost 800 lbs. If I had a "max" lift to do, I would want either that one, or my 6' mower on back. Not that the mower is much heavier, but with the center of the weight so far back on the mower, it acts on the tractor frame like a much heavier weight would up close. There's just not always room to do the lift and carry with that much length sticking off of the back of the tractor.

I have never once regretted having my rear tires filled, but I do have to be cognizant on where I drive it and what is on or under the surface. Case in point, I cannot drive over my septic field, it would crush the field pipes just under ground.

I do know how much mine weighs. I weighed it on a local CAT scale soon after purchase. With the FEL and bucket on front, and my 6' box blade on back, with I believe a full tank of fuel, it weighs 7100 lbs.

I have really enjoyed the simplicity of not having any "Tier-Any" emissions garbage on my tractor. Once I freed myself of the emissions problems, it's never needed to go back to a shop or dealer for anything. In March, it will be 7 years old, it's paid for, and it just keeps chugging along. I never once considered "resale" value when purchasing my tractor. Like someone else said, "It's a tool, not an investment."

I can see myself adding a sub compact to the "fleet" at some point. I wouldn't replace the Branson with it, but sooner or later my riding mower is going to need replacement. I can see the value of a sub compact with FEL and belly mower to take the place of the riding mower. Mrs Slim is intimidated by the size of the Branson (still) and not at all comfortable running it. I think a smaller SCUT that she can run and use for gardening, pulling a small trailer, and having a lighter FEL for potting soil or mulch, etc would be handy to have around.

 

[ericm979]

I have the open station of the tractor Slim has. It's been fine. Ours are from before Brason added the ability to do a regen. Instead it's a low temp continual regen deal with a lot of catalyst in the DOC. Or something like that, they don't really come out and say it but there have been some documents.

For me it's been fine. I run it hard enough often enough to keep it clean. I do a lot of chipping with a PTO chipper and I have never liked letting engines idle for long periods of time. Also it doesn't get all that cold here- snow is rare- which helps. I don't know if they removed some catalyst when they added the ability to regen. Or if regular TYMs with Kukje engines use the exact same setup as the ones they put in the Branson model TYMs.

OTOH there are major manufacturers like Kubota that have made EFI and standard high temp DPF regens work reliably. If one of those met my needs and budget I would not hesitate.

I had my 3725's rear tires filled with Rimguard and just recently added up the weights- with loader and filled tires it's 6000 lbs. The forestry winch and grapple add another 1000lbs. No wonder it works hard going up my steep driveway.

 

[5030]

Regardless of what brand you buy, I always maintain that buying from a local dealer is always best in the long run because most likely, at some point, you will require dealer intervention, be it for filters or things like valve adjustments or possibly something that fails that needs a dealer to fix.

I've posted that many times that buying from a distant dealer when you have local ones, is an exercise in taking a chance if you require a dealer, that far away dealer can cost you in the long run. Like the recent thread about the owner having to pay for transportation to the distant dealer for repairs. What he saved in original cost was eaten up real quick because that dealer was so far away and most dealers, because they are independent business people, if you need dealer intervention for anything, will put you at the bottom of their list for service, if necessary, because you didn't make the initial purchase there.

Why I always buy local and always have.

Life is all about choices and yours to make but saving a buck and buying long distance can work out but then again if it don't, you will wish you did.

 

[jyoutz]

Regardless of what brand you buy, I always maintain that buying from a local dealer is always best in the long run because most likely, at some point, you will require dealer intervention, be it for filters or things like valve adjustments or possibly something that fails that needs a dealer to fix.

I've posted that many times that buying from a distant dealer when you have local ones, is an exercise in taking a chance if you require a dealer, that far away dealer can cost you in the long run. Like the recent thread about the owner having to pay for transportation to the distant dealer for repairs. What he saved in original cost was eaten up real quick because that dealer was so far away and most dealers, because they are independent business people, if you need dealer intervention for anything, will put you at the bottom of their list for service, if necessary, because you didn't make the initial purchase there.

Why I always buy local and always have.

Life is all about choices and yours to make but saving a buck and buying long distance can work out but then again if it don't, you will wish you did.

I have to agree with you, but when I bought in 2021, I disregarded that advice. We have a Kubota dealer in Albuquerque, 40 miles from me. In 2021, we had supply shortages and I was on the list to buy at the local dealer for over 6 months. The manager told me that he had no idea when they would receive a MX. I ended up buying from a dealer in Durango Colorado area (4.5 hours drive) because he happened to get one in that was ordered and that person declined to receive it after it arrived. If I need service, I will go to the local dealer and he understands the situation that they couldn’t sell me a machine when I wanted to buy from them.

 

[5030]

If you have a positive relationship, I'm sure you will be fine. What I'm alluding to is shopping local dealers but then buying at a not local dealer strictly on price alone.

I did the same deal with my open station M9. I bought it used from of all things a JD Dealer 6 hours from me but my local Kubota dealer was fully aware of what I was doing (this was prior to me working for him part time) and so he was fully aware of what I was doing. In fact, I had the JD Dealer bring it down here which was part of the agreement with my buying it and delivering it to my Kubota dealer so they could go through it and makes sure everything was up to snuff.

I'm sure that was interesting, I was not there but to have a roll back come in with JD plastered on the doors, delivering a Kubota tractor to a Kubota dealer must have been interesting.

All worked out just fine because my dealer was fully apprised of what I was doing and they 'adopted' it as their anyway. Of course when I bought it, I did my 'due diligence' prior to buying it as I know M9's very well, I've owned one since 2002. Nice thing was, being a JD dealer and not really knowing what he had, I was able to lo ball him and get a really good price on it so I did just fine all around and it's a very good tractor, both mechanically and aesthetically and worth a lot more than what I have invested. Even had Dennis turn it up a bit. The mechanically injected Kubota's with the inline rail pumps are easy to dial up if you know what you are doing and Dennis knows. actually, he did both of them.

What I'm saying is, it don't always turn out that way, in fact, most times it don't.

I'm buying a used Kubota F20 diesel front mount 72" mower this spring from them as well, coming in on a trade for a new one and according to the owner (which I'm pretty good friends with) it is in very good condition but I've already told him as well as the service department to go though it, change all the fluids and whatever needs to be upgraded before I take delivery as I know nothing about hydrostats (it's a hydro) or the inner workings of an F20. Like Dennis told me, the F20 id a backwards B series tractor, engine in the back and attachments go on the front. Only reason I buying it is because of all the trees we have and mowing under them is difficult at best so the front mount mower will make that easier and unlike my zero turn with two 'oars', the F20 has a steering wheel instead and I presume hydrostatic steering as well. No way could I afford a new one either. A new unit similar to the one I'm getting, lists at around 23 grand.

Coming this spring sometime...