Box Scraper Box Blade use question..

[jeff9366]

Rick, There was some advice given on how to angle the box for deeper or shallower cutting, and others took exception to it. I wonder if the difference has to do with whether the rear blade is hinged or not. Seems like that might affect the action of the blade.

Also, Rollover Box Blades may adjust somewhat differently from conventional Box Blades.

Mine is a Rollover. I have never used a conventional Box Blade.

Germane LINK:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/43480-rollover-box-scraper-floating-tailgate.html

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Also, Rollover Box Blades may adjust somewhat differently from conventional Box Blades. Mine is a Rollover.

I have never used a conventional Box Blade.

Germane LINK:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/43480-rollover-box-scraper-floating-tailgate.html

No doubt about that. As you know, with a ROBB you pretty much set the top link and you are done. With a std type BB, the top link needs to be constantly adjusted to allow for the type of cut that you want with either the front or rear blade. Having the hinged rear blade allows for a deeper cut when using the front blade.

 

[Wa11banger]

Jim, mine is a fix blade unless I tilt it with the 3pt you think having the boxblade on there for ballast while using the FEL would be enough? It weighs more than tire weights or fluid ballast would I think

 

[Wa11banger]

Jeff, that BB is awesome.. wish I had gone the extra and found something like that before I got the standard one

 

[kw22614]

As having just acquired a used standard fixed rear blade bb and weather/ground conditions haven't been good for use yet, I also greatly appreciate this use tutorial from everyone. I've also gone to YouTube and entered Box Blade in the search box and several good videos of it's use come up, especially one by everything attachments. The OP might find this useful also - as they say - a picture is worth a thousand words. KW

 

[jeff9366]

I have draft control but am having trouble understanding how to use it.. It is another contol lever right next to and exactly like my 3ph control lever. But what is confusing is its use.

This LINK will provide answers:

https://www.google.com/#q=draft+control+site:tractorbynet.com

 

[Arc weld]

If you're ripping hard material and your tractor comes to a stop, you can always remove some of the scarifier shanks. Shorter top link does dig more aggressively, just a bulldozer does. If the top link is adjusted too short, the box blade will be riding on the front corners of the sides and not dig at all. This is good for light spreading of material but will wear the front corners of the sides out. Some box blades have extra thickness or replaceable shoes on the corners just for this purpose.

 

[jeff9366]

Do you think having the boxblade on there for ballast while using the FEL would be enough?

Yes. The first 700 pounds you pick up with the FEL will be balanced by 700 pounds of Box Blade ballast = FEL load "0".

Counterbalance ballast BEHIND the rear axle is at least as important for relieving strain on the front axle. Many tractors roll when operator has something heavy in the bucket, with no counterbalance, then drops a front wheel in a hole or rut…….and over the tractor goes, often with the result of a bent front axle. The tractor and FEL load are much more stable with counterbalance.

Filled tires nor wheel weights, which are not behind the rear axle, do almost nothing to relieve front axle stress.

 

[jimainiac]

jeff9366 really got it right about the importance of a heavy weight carried on the 3PH when doing loader work. Filled or weighted rear tires will at least help to keep the tractor on the ground when picking up something heavy with the loader, but the front wheels and axles become the fulcrum, and are subjected heavy loading. With a heavy weight on the 3PH the rear wheels and axle become the fulcrum, and they can handle it much better.
One thing to be aware of, and has been mentioned in these forums, is if the rear wheels are not weighted and you have a heavy load in the loader with a heavy attachment on the back, and you lower the 3PH to the ground, the rear of the tractor can go flying up in the air like a seesaw, since you've unweighted the rear. I've never had this happen because I do both. My rear tires are filled and I always have something on the 3PH when doing loader work.
Those rollover blades look interesting, but I'm guessing they're a lot more expensive...

 

[MtnViewRanch]

jeff9366 really got it right about the importance of a heavy weight carried on the 3PH when doing loader work. Filled or weighted rear tires will at least help to keep the tractor on the ground when picking up something heavy with the loader, but the front wheels and axles become the fulcrum, and are subjected heavy loading. With a heavy weight on the 3PH the rear wheels and axle become the fulcrum, and they can handle it much better.
One thing to be aware of, and has been mentioned in these forums, is if the rear wheels are not weighted and you have a heavy load in the loader with a heavy attachment on the back, and you lower the 3PH to the ground, the rear of the tractor can go flying up in the air like a seesaw, since you've unweighted the rear. I've never had this happen because I do both. My rear tires are filled and I always have something on the 3PH when doing loader work.
Those rollover blades look interesting, but I'm guessing they're a lot more expensive...

A lot more expensive than what? They are about 1/2 the cost of an industrial BB and maybe $500 more than a std type BB of the same weight.

When it comes to new implements, you usually get what you pay for.

 

[Wa11banger]

KW, I have watched many vids some from EA and agree they were excellent instructions but none of the covered one of my original questions qbout using the BB backwards. The years of experience answering my questions have though so thanks to all that have posted.

Jeff, thanks for the google search link, I had read many of those before I guess I missed the one with good info the first go around. After reading the debate about using the draft control to raise and lower the implement it makes sense an kind of cleared it up a bit.. when it warms up a bit, I'll get out there and put it to practical use. As for the counterbalance explanation thanks, that is great to know how it best works and why. I think if I ever rolled over there would a foul smell about the earth lol.

 

[Donfi]

I am running a 5 foot BB on my CK20S. Great tool once you get used to it, I added a hydraulic top link which makes everything much easier and faster. As far as pushing I agree it is fine for light leveling. I bent my upper assembly on my BB pushing boulders and had to rebuild it. Luckily I did not damage the 3pt arms. I have four suitcase weights @ 69 lbs. each which I hang on the sides of my BB for added traction seems to work fine so far. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.