Box Blade Scarifier Adjustment

[mljenkins]

Does anyone know of a better setup than to use the hitch pins on the main pin to adjust the scarifiers? I have a King blade and the main pin has a small hole through it that the hitch pin goes through. The hitch pins are small and hard to get out of the hole.

It seems like there should be a quicker way to adjust the scarifiers. Other than that, the only other two things that slow me down are adjusting the top link and the lift on the right lift arm to adjust the angle.

Fortunately I got a lot done the past couple days before the rain sets in. Have been doing everything with the shanks in whatever position I need them and then cleaning up with the shanks up later on to save myself time.

Any tips appreciated! Thanks!

 

[jenkinsph]

You could use hydraulics to make all of the adjustments you mentioned.:thumbsup:

 

[mljenkins]

Yeah I have been thinking about a hydro top link. Do they make hydro aftermarket adjustments for the lift rod adjustment? As far as the scarifiers, it seems neat to have hydro adjustments for them but I find myself adjusting only certain ones for different jobs, so just getting the pins out quicker would make me happy

 

[jenkinsph]

Sure, you can get tilt cylinders made to fit most tractors. Lots of threads here for aftermarket kits.

You may want to consider welding on larger pull rings or tabs to get a better grip on the clips retaining the individual scarifiers. If you can post a closeup picture of your setup it would help with the suggestions.

 

[teg]

Hydraulics would cost you some $$$$ but it adds value to the tractor. I just setup 3 spools (one for grapple, 2 for the rear Top N Tilt hydraulics...) I tried to do it cheaply and it was over $600 just for the spool - I'm still looking at another $500 for the hydraulic cylinders. Not sure what it would cost for yours...

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...7948-instructions-add-extra-spools-l2800.html

 

[Gary Fowler]

The box blade in Jenkinsph post has hydraulic cylinder on the scarifier teeth plus top and tilt. Nice box blade and set up.by the way. If I was going to use my box blade a lot, I would invest in something like that. Just adding the top link hydraulic would enable you to do a lot of adjustment from the seat by just tilting the box blade you can raise and lower the scarifiers somewhat and change from dig to spread. That would be my first option if I wanted to do a less than total rework on TNT.

 

[Recoveryhill]

I've been using a 65" Woods Box for about a week now. Great tool and for my use where efficiency is less important than $$, I'm good as is.

Ripper pins on the Woods are easy to move/remove. Top link is likewise easy to adjust angle of blade, fore and aft. Tilt....that's another story entirely. After wrestling the side link for a half hour trying to support the implement all kind of different ways with no help, I have a next plan. I'm going to block the box at the desired tilt before attaching the RH arm.

I haven't tried it yet but it seems like a no brainer.

 

[teg]

... Tilt....that's another story entirely....

Try using a 4x4 block in the middle... rest it on that and you should be able to get some slack in the tilt threads. Tighten it and when it gets tight again, pick the box blade up and drop it again on the block... you should get more slack again... That's how I do it. This is an old photo... someone didn't know where the tilt was and I had drawn in the "wood block"...

 

[mljenkins]

jenkinsph, good idea on attaching something to the pins. I don't have a welder but I'm sure I could either ask some friends or maybe even just put a ring on the end of them or something. I thought about keeping a pair of pliers handy but I always loose tools around the tractor <sigh>.

So far the tilt hasn't been as much of an issue as other people have said. My Long has a hand crank on the lift arm. Unless there is a lot of weight on it, typically it is not too bad to turn. The blade is the only time I ever use it and I typically don't do that much blading. Just so happens I am trying to reslope some areas so they drain properly (guy that owned the place years ago before me didn't understand that). At least the hydro top link could be used with my brush hog to help getting up banks with a steep start.

 

[/pine]

...good idea on attaching something to the pins...

If your hitch pins are tough to grab...especialy when they get a little rusty...you might consider a spring loaded "carabiner"

they are quick and easy to use and will give you a much larger finger pull

 

[Recoveryhill]

Try using a 4x4 block in the middle... rest it on that and you should be able to get some slack in the tilt threads.

Food for thought! Thanks. One thing for sure is there has to be a better way than my last attempt. I found myself thinking why not wrench flats on the turnbuckle tube? Those two pins don't seem much help with ANY load on the threads. Oh...ask me if I knocked the zerk fitting off the tube and I would answer yes, of course!

 

[Gopher Baroque]

Food for thought! Thanks. One thing for sure is there has to be a better way than my last attempt. I found myself thinking why not wrench flats on the turnbuckle tube? Those two pins don't seem much help with ANY load on the threads. Oh...ask me if I knocked the zerk fitting off the tube and I would answer yes, of course!

Ha, I demonstrated that the crossbar hole in a TSC top link does not take compression. I cut out the collapsed center of the body (about an inch). I then found a large construction nut to bore out for a repair sleeve on the outside of the body halves. Press the three parts together and weld around the nut to make just what you propose. Nice sturdy repair and no holes weakening the body.