Box blade neck bent
- Thread starter cdover73
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Last view is from the rear looking forward. You can barely see the chipped paint in the upper left corner and along the brace weld. Also, notice the arched bend in the cross brace. This is where I want to weld a piece of angle iron to give it a strong back once it is straightened.
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Last view is from the rear looking forward. You can barely see the chipped paint in the upper left corner and along the brace weld. Also, notice the arched bend in the cross brace. This is where I want to weld a piece of angle iron to give it a strong back once it is straightened.
BTW, the chain is there only out of coincidence. My boom pole sits behind the grader box and I wrap the chain up and lay it on the box to keep it off the ground. I do not use a chain with my box to pull anything. Just in case anyone was wondering! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
BTW, the chain is there only out of coincidence. My boom pole sits behind the grader box and I wrap the chain up and lay it on the box to keep it off the ground. I do not use a chain with my box to pull anything. Just in case anyone was wondering! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
PineRidge
Super Member
Put a block of wood on the tight side and a 1/2 bolt through the hole. Get on it with a big wrench and you'll straighten it in no time flat. You'll need to go a bit farther than straight as it will flex back a bit as you loosen the bolt.
PineRidge
Super Member
Put a block of wood on the tight side and a 1/2 bolt through the hole. Get on it with a big wrench and you'll straighten it in no time flat. You'll need to go a bit farther than straight as it will flex back a bit as you loosen the bolt.
What about the bent support brace? That will need to be straightened also. I don't see it going back straight using only the method you described above. I like your idea and think it will work for the top, but like I said earlier, I worry that bending it cold will only cause stress in other areas. Then again heat will make it weaker. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
What about the bent support brace? That will need to be straightened also. I don't see it going back straight using only the method you described above. I like your idea and think it will work for the top, but like I said earlier, I worry that bending it cold will only cause stress in other areas. Then again heat will make it weaker. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Highbeam
Super Member
So what's the problem? I mean the toplink connection can be crooked. The blade itself functions exactly as it did when new, right?
That box blade will never be manly enough to hold up to all the abuse your tractor can throw out without major surgery. My Frontier BB2060 puts that box to shame and I only use a 30HP machine. If you want to upgrade the BB to handle your tractor, plan on huge steel additions to the bobxblade and a major surgery. I've done this on a light duty RC so it is not impossible.
Why bother making the existing metal look pretty? It's not for function.
That box blade will never be manly enough to hold up to all the abuse your tractor can throw out without major surgery. My Frontier BB2060 puts that box to shame and I only use a 30HP machine. If you want to upgrade the BB to handle your tractor, plan on huge steel additions to the bobxblade and a major surgery. I've done this on a light duty RC so it is not impossible.
Why bother making the existing metal look pretty? It's not for function.
Highbeam
Super Member
So what's the problem? I mean the toplink connection can be crooked. The blade itself functions exactly as it did when new, right?
That box blade will never be manly enough to hold up to all the abuse your tractor can throw out without major surgery. My Frontier BB2060 puts that box to shame and I only use a 30HP machine. If you want to upgrade the BB to handle your tractor, plan on huge steel additions to the bobxblade and a major surgery. I've done this on a light duty RC so it is not impossible.
Why bother making the existing metal look pretty? It's not for function.
That box blade will never be manly enough to hold up to all the abuse your tractor can throw out without major surgery. My Frontier BB2060 puts that box to shame and I only use a 30HP machine. If you want to upgrade the BB to handle your tractor, plan on huge steel additions to the bobxblade and a major surgery. I've done this on a light duty RC so it is not impossible.
Why bother making the existing metal look pretty? It's not for function.
N80
Super Member
I have that box blade (SBX 720). It is far more substantial than the Howse, KK, etc. box blades. The endplates are 3/8" rather than 1/4". It has captured pins for the lower links. This blade is very comparable to the JD (Frontier) BB2072 which is the 6 foot version of the BB2060. In fact, the Bush Hog is heavier (535 vs 550 pounds) and a little beefier looking in my opinion. Otherwise, the specs are virtually identical and the construction very similar. So I personally don't think the Frontier is any better, but very similar. Both good, standard duty blades.
I have a 45 hp, 4wd and have used mine extensively and hard over the last month or so both for plowing, leveling andactual landscaping moving a lot of dirt from one place to another. I've hit rocks, stumps and a tree or two both in forward and reverse. I guess I'm lucky but no problems so far.
The Bush Hog has a rating of 50hp for 2wd but only 35 for 4wd. Oddly, this is labled as Maximum HP _Required_. The Frontier BB2072 says 27-45hp but does not specifiy 2wd vs 4wd.
In any case, the damage I see in these pictures indicates that something transmitted the energy away from the lower links to the top link. If the tractor was backing and hit the stump with the bottom edge of the blade, it seems to me that this would have caused the BB mast to rotate rearward (with the lower link pins as a fulcrum) and _pull_ against the top link. The pictures look like the force was carried through the mast toward the top link. Did you hit this stump with the top edge of the BB?
I have a 45 hp, 4wd and have used mine extensively and hard over the last month or so both for plowing, leveling andactual landscaping moving a lot of dirt from one place to another. I've hit rocks, stumps and a tree or two both in forward and reverse. I guess I'm lucky but no problems so far.
The Bush Hog has a rating of 50hp for 2wd but only 35 for 4wd. Oddly, this is labled as Maximum HP _Required_. The Frontier BB2072 says 27-45hp but does not specifiy 2wd vs 4wd.
In any case, the damage I see in these pictures indicates that something transmitted the energy away from the lower links to the top link. If the tractor was backing and hit the stump with the bottom edge of the blade, it seems to me that this would have caused the BB mast to rotate rearward (with the lower link pins as a fulcrum) and _pull_ against the top link. The pictures look like the force was carried through the mast toward the top link. Did you hit this stump with the top edge of the BB?
N80
Super Member
I have that box blade (SBX 720). It is far more substantial than the Howse, KK, etc. box blades. The endplates are 3/8" rather than 1/4". It has captured pins for the lower links. This blade is very comparable to the JD (Frontier) BB2072 which is the 6 foot version of the BB2060. In fact, the Bush Hog is heavier (535 vs 550 pounds) and a little beefier looking in my opinion. Otherwise, the specs are virtually identical and the construction very similar. So I personally don't think the Frontier is any better, but very similar. Both good, standard duty blades.
I have a 45 hp, 4wd and have used mine extensively and hard over the last month or so both for plowing, leveling andactual landscaping moving a lot of dirt from one place to another. I've hit rocks, stumps and a tree or two both in forward and reverse. I guess I'm lucky but no problems so far.
The Bush Hog has a rating of 50hp for 2wd but only 35 for 4wd. Oddly, this is labled as Maximum HP _Required_. The Frontier BB2072 says 27-45hp but does not specifiy 2wd vs 4wd.
In any case, the damage I see in these pictures indicates that something transmitted the energy away from the lower links to the top link. If the tractor was backing and hit the stump with the bottom edge of the blade, it seems to me that this would have caused the BB mast to rotate rearward (with the lower link pins as a fulcrum) and _pull_ against the top link. The pictures look like the force was carried through the mast toward the top link. Did you hit this stump with the top edge of the BB?
I have a 45 hp, 4wd and have used mine extensively and hard over the last month or so both for plowing, leveling andactual landscaping moving a lot of dirt from one place to another. I've hit rocks, stumps and a tree or two both in forward and reverse. I guess I'm lucky but no problems so far.
The Bush Hog has a rating of 50hp for 2wd but only 35 for 4wd. Oddly, this is labled as Maximum HP _Required_. The Frontier BB2072 says 27-45hp but does not specifiy 2wd vs 4wd.
In any case, the damage I see in these pictures indicates that something transmitted the energy away from the lower links to the top link. If the tractor was backing and hit the stump with the bottom edge of the blade, it seems to me that this would have caused the BB mast to rotate rearward (with the lower link pins as a fulcrum) and _pull_ against the top link. The pictures look like the force was carried through the mast toward the top link. Did you hit this stump with the top edge of the BB?
Highbeam
Super Member
The lack of beef seems most obvious in the mast construction. The JD BB uses a huge triangle of 3/8" plate from front to back to form the mast.
Some things can operate just fine with a little bend to them. The damage caused by this bend doesn't look to have changed the ability of the implement to do work.
Some things can operate just fine with a little bend to them. The damage caused by this bend doesn't look to have changed the ability of the implement to do work.
Highbeam
Super Member
The lack of beef seems most obvious in the mast construction. The JD BB uses a huge triangle of 3/8" plate from front to back to form the mast.
Some things can operate just fine with a little bend to them. The damage caused by this bend doesn't look to have changed the ability of the implement to do work.
Some things can operate just fine with a little bend to them. The damage caused by this bend doesn't look to have changed the ability of the implement to do work.
I was pushing the stump backwards with the bottom of the blade against the middle of the stump. I backed easily up to it and barely came off the clutch with the engine just above idle. When the stump didn't budge I got on the clutch and pulled away. When I took the box off this is what I saw.
The forces that bent it were transferred from the blade to the rear support brace which is attached to the top of the mast just below the top link holes. When the blade twisted toward the front the brace was pulled rearward and the cross brace under the top of the mast was also bent rearward causing the back of the mast to open up.
I will fix it this weekend and post some pics next Monday. I agree, it's still usable, but needs to be beefed up if I am going to keep it.
The forces that bent it were transferred from the blade to the rear support brace which is attached to the top of the mast just below the top link holes. When the blade twisted toward the front the brace was pulled rearward and the cross brace under the top of the mast was also bent rearward causing the back of the mast to open up.
I will fix it this weekend and post some pics next Monday. I agree, it's still usable, but needs to be beefed up if I am going to keep it.
I was pushing the stump backwards with the bottom of the blade against the middle of the stump. I backed easily up to it and barely came off the clutch with the engine just above idle. When the stump didn't budge I got on the clutch and pulled away. When I took the box off this is what I saw.
The forces that bent it were transferred from the blade to the rear support brace which is attached to the top of the mast just below the top link holes. When the blade twisted toward the front the brace was pulled rearward and the cross brace under the top of the mast was also bent rearward causing the back of the mast to open up.
I will fix it this weekend and post some pics next Monday. I agree, it's still usable, but needs to be beefed up if I am going to keep it.
The forces that bent it were transferred from the blade to the rear support brace which is attached to the top of the mast just below the top link holes. When the blade twisted toward the front the brace was pulled rearward and the cross brace under the top of the mast was also bent rearward causing the back of the mast to open up.
I will fix it this weekend and post some pics next Monday. I agree, it's still usable, but needs to be beefed up if I am going to keep it.
