box blade modification to do narrow trenching?

BruceT · Dec 8, 2005

Was wondering if anyone has tried this....? See attached edited picture.

Instead of purchasing a subsoiler/trencher, take a center shank off the box blade and temporarily bolt an equally heavy (or heavier) steel leg to extend it down an additional 12-18". Result is not intended to be a cleaned out trench, rather just a narrow break-up that can then be cleaned out manually. Intended for SHORT runs where underground feeder elect wires or small pipe would be laid down.

A welded extension would also be an option, but bolting on would keep the availability of the implement to revert back to blading easily. Anyone tried this?

jdgreg · Dec 8, 2005

I just dropped the center shank and made a couple of passes to get the desired width, then cleaned out with a narrow ditch shovel. You might could find longer shanks than what you have now, to give a little more depth. But I would think if you tried extending your existing shank as much as you pictured, you would have to add a LOT of support metal to the back of the shank, otherwise it would bend/twist due to the extreme force. If you have a lot of ditch work to do, bite the bullet and buy the trencher. Or you might could find a good deal on ebay or local nickel type add magazines. Or rent one, sometimes equipment rent shops will buy an implement to augment their inventory if someone really needs one.

EddieWalker · Dec 8, 2005

I like the idea, but question the strength of using one longer shank.

I'm wondering if a bracket on the outside plate would work. Then you could slide it up and down, and make it large enough to handle the stress of digging and moving dirt.

The question would be how much preasure could the links handle with a digging tooth on one side?

Eddie

BobReeves · Dec 8, 2005

Don't remember what my Subsoiler cost but wasn't much. Thinking around $160.00, am sure it was under $200.00 Paid for itself first time I used it, now it sits waiting for the next time I need it, doesn't eat and feel it's already paid for.

I would buy the Subsoiler

TNhobbyfarmer · Dec 8, 2005

A much simpler solution is to drop one of the lift arms so only one end of the box is in the ground. Makes a servicable ditch for most for most applications.

BruceT · Dec 9, 2005

( I'm wondering if a bracket on the outside plate would work. Then you could slide it up and down, and make it large enough to handle the stress of digging and moving dirt.

The question would be how much preasure could the links handle with a digging tooth on one side?

Eddie )

Thanks to all for the great comments. I probably did not do justice in my rendering of the original image I posted. It's exagerated in length, but I have to agree that extending it to be used in the center is risky. I'm leaning toward Eddie's suggestion of a side plate bracket. These links are fairly heavy duty on my International 300, and I would expect 2WD traction/slippage would give way first to any link damage. Of course the side mount might also adverserly influence steering, but heck I never could drive a straight trench even with a DitchWitch! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Bruce

StanleyIdaho · Dec 9, 2005

I just take a shank, turn it upside down and drop it into the sleve, bolt it through the two holes to another shank. Gives me about a 10-12 inch deep cut and I can even offset to an exterior sleve.

Stan

gabby · Dec 9, 2005

Trenching is not necessary. Weld a ring to the back of the tooth and pull the wire or pipe through the ground like a rope. I've planted miles of pvc pipe and wire this way. It's so slick you will be amazed.
gabby

3RRL · Dec 9, 2005

( Weld a ring to the back of the tooth and pull the wire or pipe through the ground like a rope. I've planted miles of pvc pipe and wire this way. It's so slick you will be amazed.)

Gabby,
Could you elaborate on that technique? I'd like to try it for pvc pipe on my property. How do you attach the pipe? What about length for long runs? Do you glue the pipes together first or one at a time?
Thanks,

MMM · Dec 10, 2005

I'd be afraid I'd rip out the hole or twist beam and end up needing a new boxblade.
Maybe your luck runs better than mine.

gabby · Dec 11, 2005

( ( Weld a ring to the back of the tooth and pull the wire or pipe through the ground like a rope. I've planted miles of pvc pipe and wire this way. It's so slick you will be amazed.)

Gabby,
Could you elaborate on that technique? I'd like to try it for pvc pipe on my property. How do you attach the pipe? What about length for long runs? Do you glue the pipes together first or one at a time?
Thanks, )

Make a pulling head by gluing a pvc cap to a piece of pipe, drill a hole through the center of the cap, insert a 3 foot long piece of rope, tie a knot in the rope behind the cap so it can't pull out, and tie the other end to a welded ring at the base of the subsoiler foot.

Pre-glue the pipe with hot glue. If it's a long run you can glue it up in sections and connect each section as you need it. The hot glue will let you pull it right away.

I have pulled 900 feet of 1 inch pvc in one stretch. Went from "I need this pipe right now" to "the sprinkler is running" in 3 hours, including going to town to get all the stuff.

The soil friction is not as great as you might think. It creates its own underground tunnel.

I have pulled 800 feet of 8-2 gauge electric wire in one stretch.

Major suggestion: Weld a sharp vertical slicing edge along the front face of the subsoiler shank to neatly cut through the grass without ripping out big chunks.

Pipe laying can be fun!!

gabby

bugstruck · Dec 11, 2005

Gabby, I assume by hot glue you mean using a hot glue gun? Am I correct/not?

runningbird · Dec 11, 2005

no, not a glue gun.it is a type of pvc cement and it reads HOT cement on the container..I will be trying this method of trenching in the next two months. I sure hope it works, it would deffinitly save a lot of time!

bugstruck · Dec 11, 2005

OK, I was wondering about hot glue (gun type) holding up to those pull lengths. It's not a PVC fusing adhesive to my knowledge. Never seen the hot glue in HD or Lowes. Is that a plumbing supply center product?

runningbird · Dec 11, 2005

hd and low's should both have it. it's just pvc cement in the pvc and sprinkler area. it will say HOT CEMENT or just ask at the store. ace also carries it.

3RRL · Dec 11, 2005

Gabby,
That's a great post. I've been wondering how I'm gonna lay all this pipe I need. I know which hot glue you're talking about and I'll be using your technique this coming month or so. I'll keep you guys posted on how it turns out.
Thanks,