Box Scraper Box blade help

[greg_g]

Thank you for the replys and suggestions. I am going to rent a box blade this weekend and try it out. If it works and I decide to go that way, any suggestions on what brand to buy or NOT to buy? I am not going to use it everyday, so i probably dont need the best, but I also dont want to waste my $ and wish I had bought something more durable/better either. Suggestions?

Renting might not give you the results we describe, as your current toplink might be too long. This technique only works if you can insert meaningful forward tilt to the boxblade angle of attack

How wide a swath do you need to rip up? Four footers limit your choice, but the field opens up significantly in the five and six foot selection. Remember you want to pick one that completely covers your tire tracks.

//greg//

 

[Huckster]

Greg, on my track the riding lanes are about 10ft wide. Making 2 passes is not a problem and again, I do not care about looks or smoothness. My main concern is being able to actually dig below the hard layer and turning the dirt over now and then so it isnt like riding on concrete. By renting it will give me an idea of the depth and ability to dig into the dirt, although the soil will be wet so it might not be a great test.

The price for the Landpride scarifier was quoted at $816+tax so rounded up its pretty close to $900 otd. It seemed kind of high since you can get a box blade cheaper and like has been stated, a scarifier is the same without the box.

 

[greg_g]

That's not my point. To get the effect that 3RRL and I are describing, you might need a toplink shorter than the one that's currently on your tractor. A very common Cat 1 toplink has a 16" body that can't be adjusted to less than a 19" operating length. I found that to be a bit long to get the desired angle on a hay spear I used last winter, so just purchased a special Cat 1 toplink that has a 13" body. Depending upon the length of your lower links, you might have to go to a short toplink like that to get the proper angle of attack out of that rental boxblade

And I agree - given the price of boxblades, that seems like a helluva lotta money for just a scarifier bar.

//greg//

 

[N80]

The toplink that came on my Kubota L4400 is plenty short enough. In fact, I've never had to screw it all the way in to get the tilt I needed. Regardless, if it is too longTSC has toplinks for $26.

 

[greg_g]

The toplink that came on my Kubota L4400 is plenty short enough. In fact, I've never had to screw it all the way in to get the tilt I needed. Regardless, if it is too longTSC has toplinks for $26.

I understand. Kubota Cat 1 toplinks have a 14-1/2" body, as opposed to the 16" body on the standard TSC Cat 1. In fact, I've never seen a Cat 1 shorter than that at any TSC I've ever been in. Rural King either.

What I'm talking about is a compact Cat 1 from AgriSupply that I just bought for 11 bucks. Made in India just like all the rest. It's got a 13" body, 17-3/4" eye to eye closed and just right for the attack angle I needed fo that bale spear. Short toplink like that will also pull up a boxblade to let the scarifiers do all the work

//greg//

 

[SCRich]

GREAT thread guys. I just walked in from the property looking to post the same question. Got the tractor yesterday and got a couple of hours in today. My land is NO WAY level!! The BB was a pain, spent about 1 hour+ and just could not get it right but I did make some progress by coming in at other angles. The box would load with dirt before the teeth would dig in and I had the teeth 1 hole from all the way down. After I got some of it cut and SOMEWHAT leveled it became a bit better and the teeth did dig a bit but still some dips and such and the blade would start loading up way too much.

I'll drop the teeth to the last hole and try the top link. It's a L3400 and a Linebech 556HD. Races are are tomorow so I'll have to be back early but I got a lot of work ahead of me, this thread probably just saved me a lot of time and some money.

What does everyone think of a rake also ? Too soft to break up the soil ? I got a lot of roots, rocks and small branches broken up and dug in the soil and that I think the BB will not do any good with.

 

[SCDolphin]

This looks handy

 

[3RRL]

Hey Greg,
I reviewed this thread and was looking at those links you posted at the beginning. I was wondering if you knew whether some of those "plow shaped" scarifiers on one of those could be changed over to fit the box blade scarifiers. I was thinking of doing that if they fit. Now that my plots are ripped, plowing them (not too deep) with a set of those would really work. Maybe only use 3 or 4 instead of 7 (on mine). What do you think?

 

[greg_g]

What do you think?

You're talking about cultivator heads I think. If you can find a way to strengthen the shanks, I don't see why it wouldn't work. Because if/when you find them available individually, I'm wondering if they'll actually fit in the scarifier slots on your BB crossbar. I think I'd prefer to modify the shanks rather than the BB

In the end, it might be simpler just to buy a field cultivator.

//greg//

 

[3RRL]

I think modifying the shanks is a good suggestion.
The shanks are cheap at Agri-Supply so I could buy a few spares and mount a cultivator head on them. Do you know if those heads are available separately? I would like to try it.

 

[weldingisfun]

This looks handy

That is called a Spring Tooth Chisel around here. It will cut down on problems by allowing the tooth/chisel to disengage from an immovable root or rock.

 

[greg_g]

IDo you know if those heads are available separately? I would like to try it.

I'm bettin' there are plenty of old field cultivators sitting idle out in the Valley. Perhaps consider buying up a few rusting hulks on the cheap, and just salvage the tips for your project.

//greg//

 

[SCRich]

The toplink that came on my Kubota L4400 is plenty short enough. In fact, I've never had to screw it all the way in to get the tilt I needed. Regardless, if it is too longTSC has toplinks for $26.

Same with the L3400. I read the post and headed back out the next morning to give it a try. I have about 1.5 inches left of takup and it worked GREAT. Next weekend I'll try shortening it up all the way and see if it's any better. I broke up the top 3-4 inches and left it the way it was. Hopefully it will not rain much this week and the clay clods (100% clods now) will dry out a bit and I can give it a few more passes again breaking them up and going a bit deeper this time.



Don't know what else to use to break them up other than a pulverizer but I don't want to spend that much cash now since I don't have the room and I just spent over $20K cash for what I have. I was thinking of a cheap roller arieator from Northern Tool filled with water may do the trick and be handy for what it was INTENDED to do in the fall. Only thing holding me back is the space, not much room left in my 40ft container once I put the root grapple in, bucket, BB, ATV and some assorted supplies.

 

[N80]

I have the same problem (since we have the same soil). I've tried various things. Going over and over it with the BB helps. Driving backwards with the bucket in float helps some. Best thing was a drag that I made. Rolled up a bunch of chain link fence in a 6 foot piece of treated 6x6. Pull that around on a chain. Works great. But, the more you 'plow' around in it the better it gets. There is also a point at which the moisture is just right and it will plow without clumping. Don't ask me how to tell.

 

[SCRich]

"Bucket in Float" please explain. Do you mean driving backwards with the bucket just above ground level ?

I wish I had the draft feature on my tractor, I see that it is mentioned in the manual and the tractor has an opening on the right side for a draft control just above the 3pt height adjustment. I am assuming that draft will allow the attachment to follow the contour as you drive along, that is probably really good for light BB work. Don't know that much about it and for all I know I may be able to have that added on to the tractor, guess I better ask the dealer. It's still got to go back any day now for the grapple install and hooks when the grapple arrives.

I have been looking for chain link along the side of the road since I drive for a living for the past week or so. Never seen a drag harrow up close but I guess it's so simple I don't need to. I was thinking that a piece of angle, a bit of chain and a hook or two along with 6-8ft of fence should work. Priced them out and $350+ seems a bit much for so little in material.

If I can't find some cheap fence material soon I may just say to heck with it and get the Northen Tool plugger and give that a try. It has got to work somewhat if the clods dry out and eventually I'll need a plugger anyway.

 

[N80]

Float position is with the joystick all the way forward. It drops the loader all the way to the ground with no hydraulic pressure up or down. This way, as you go along it just floats. I suspect this is primarily for scooping while on a hard surface. In this case, lower the bucket all the way down with it either in full curl or with the bottom flat on the ground. Then push the joystick into the float position, it will stay there, and motor around backwards. This smooths very nicely. If you need more weight, load the bucket with some dirt. However, depending on the angle of the bucket, it can pull a lot of material around if it has the extra weight on it.

I'm not sure draft control would be worth it simply for box blade use. Some folks who want perfectly flat surfaces use guage wheels. My food plots don't need to be that flat!

Sure can't hurt to give the plugger a try. Let us know how it works out. How much water does it hold?

 

[SCRich]

Thanks George, never tried float control on the loader I'll try that. Now I think my rear 3pt also has that, odd drawing on the lower most position on the 3pt lift control and when I pushed it into that position it seems that it try's to float.

Found the instructions for draft and it appears that you need to move to the Float Icon with one control and then the other control which I do not have installed is the draft control. If you don't have draft then all you will get is your basic float.

I'll try to pass by Northern after work and see how many gallons that tank holds but I'll try the BB first this weekend. Another scorcher tomorow and MAYBE some scattered showers on Friday. Bad for the drought but these clods may break some with the BB after the heat and sun we have had all week.

 

[RobJ]

I made one to, ain't pretty but it's all I can pull. The things on top are being used as weights. But in reality they are upside down....they are a cultivating plow. The sweeping plows mount on top (top in the picture) and the little L shaped bracket normally holds the guide wheel(it'll lift the plow if a bump is hit).

I scrounged these parts from my uncles scrap pile. I can also remove the scarf and put on a middle buster, etc.

 

[Gavman]

The Land Pride scarifier is probably so expensive because it is commercial grade. A Land Pride MRL 3578 is approx. $2300.00,(in my area) and the scarifier pictured looks just like the scarifier on that particular BB. I don't know if anybody else makes that product, but I bet it would be cheaper in a KK, Howse, or Cimmaron model. I guess the price is relative to what a guy is using the implement for, and whether it will make him any cash.
Just a thought.