Box Scraper box blade help 5'

[joybuz]

I have a TC-30 that came with a box blade that I've been using as is, but it doesn't have any scrappers and the adjustable turnbuckle need replacing I think, because I can't tilt the blade or adjust it with it.

Is this worth fixing and what would you suggest?

I'm attaching some images of the box blade.

Thanks for any help

 

[Jimbrown]

It sure looks to me like you got enough adjustment on that top link to tilt it back. Not sure about forward. That sloppy ill fitting pin on the top link is stopping some adjustment. Also lowering or raising the drag bars might give more adjustment also.

 

[prichard]

I'll second what Jim said. You should have lots adjustment left in that top link. That pin looks wrong to me also.

 

[/pine]

The entire key to scaling the learning curve of a box blade is being able to readily make changes to the aggressiveness or lack of to the blade...i.e., increasing or decreasing the length of the top link...
Obviously a hydraulic top link is ideal but sometimes we have to work with what we have...

I would fix the bent (rear) blade and buy some scarifiers and pins...

An adjustable side link will greatly enhance the performance of a box blade...from cutting crowns and ditches to over dressing an already crowned lane etc...

Learn how and when to adjust a box blade and it will become a most valuable attachment...!

Good Luck...

 

[joybuz]

Thanks /pine, I'll check on a hydraulic top and adjustable side link. I'm getting on up there in age and everything that reduces demand on my old body helps.

The entire key to scaling the learning curve of a box blade is being able to readily make changes to the aggressiveness or lack of to the blade...i.e., increasing or decreasing the length of the top link...
Obviously a hydraulic top link is ideal but sometimes we have to work with what we have...

I would fix the bent (rear) blade and buy some scarifiers and pins...

An adjustable side link will greatly enhance the performance of a box blade...from cutting crowns and ditches to over dressing an already crowned lane etc...

Learn how and when to adjust a box blade and it will become a most valuable attachment...!

Good Luck...

 

[joybuz]

Thanks for the tips Jimbrown! I appreciate the advice.

 

[joybuz]

Thanks prichard. I'll check into that pin. It probably is wrong.

 

[Stonehaller]

Thanks /pine, I'll check on a hydraulic top and adjustable side link. I'm getting on up there in age and everything that reduces demand on my old body helps.

joybuz, You already have an adjustable side link. Is that the turn buckle you cannot turn? The vertical link on right side? It is missing the pin through the center tube, but there are wrench flats on the tube. Note that the jam nut on the top is left hand threads.

A hydraulic top link, though nice to have, is quite an expense to add as it looks like you have no rear remotes. I would work with what you have initially and take the time to get off the tractor to adjust the top link and side link as required. If you need to work in hard ground, it is definitely worth to getting scarifiers.

 

[joybuz]

Thanks Stonehauler! I did as you said and adjusted the sidelink and also the toplink some and I ordered 4 scarifiers. Will try it like that and try to learn how and when to adjust a box blade like /pine suggested.

 

[roadhunter]

NExt is the top and tilt kit. Those make the blade 10x more useful. Especially the top link.

 

[MESSMAKER]

Check with Agrisupply for the rippers. They were only about 10-12 dollars each which is way less than anywhere else. They fit tight in my slots but with just a bit of grinding they slipped right in. They make all the difference on a box blade.

 

[IXLR8]

Somewhere around here is a thread on using a boxblade, you should read that if you haven't already. I had manual adjust top and side links, drove me nuts and I had a terrible time sorting things out and getting the BB to work properly. Cried when I wrote the check for hydraulic top and side links, now it is a piece of cake to get what I want the blade to do. BUT, if you don't already have rear hydraulics, then the hydraulic Top and Tilt just got about twice as expensive. Since it looks like you are stuck with manual adjustments, make small adjustments, take small bites with the BB and go about as slow as the tractor can. I have found going slow will take longer to get results, but you will get better results. I did buy a large tilt gauge that I attached to the BB so I knew what sort of a grade I was putting on my road.