Box Blade for DK4210?

[msal98]

Hey all, looking into picking up a box blade unless you guys talk me out of it. My property was logged prior to purchase by the prior owners. There's a decent sized cleared area on my property, overgrown until a few days ago, a thin tree line away from my yard. It was the landing area when things were logged. I've started thinning out the tree line and used my grapple/backhoe to clean things up, pull a few stumps, etc. I've got it in pretty good shape and is fairly flat, but it really needs to be smoothed out. We are going to use part of it for fruit trees, and not sure on the rest (maybe move the chickens over there too, TBD). It would be nice to throw down some grass and have it mowable. I've yet to throw my bucket back on and try backdragging the whole thing, which I will likely try soon to see how far I can get. Other than that we're clearing a few other areas that were logged, and cleaning up some really rough logging trails. I also pulled several stumps in my front yard, leaving some big uneven spots. FWIW my property slopes (not the clearing I mentioned though), is wooded, and is somewhat rocky. I feel like this is worth mentioning, since every video I watch of some implement X is always being used in a perfect scenario, which is nothing like the land that I'm on.

Given all of that, I'm thinking a box blade is the next implement I need (currently have backhoe and root grapple). I've never used one as this is my first tractor, but I've read that they can also be handy for trail management.

My tractor is a DK4210SE HST. My tires are filled (rimguard). I guess my first question is, will the box blade do what I want (I think so based on what I've read). My second question is, what's a good width? The DK is 68" wide (measured). I am thinking a 72" wide box blade, and have been eyeing several from EA attachments. Would I be better off going larger, or would I have trouble pulling given my rough property? Still reading about the differences between there blades (besides price). I've checked CL and I don't see much locally, although I did send out one email and I'm waiting to hear back.

Thanks, let me know what you think!
Matt

 

[dusty3030]

Yes, 6' wide would be ideal for you. Plus that and 5' are the most common sizes I see so there will be more to choose from.

Heavier the better. Beefy attachment points. Make sure it has all the rippers. If you don't have a hydraulic top link, I'd strongly consider getting that as well as it makes using a box blade 99.9999% more effective and efficient.

 

[msal98]

Yes, 6' wide would be ideal for you. Plus that and 5' are the most common sizes I see so there will be more to choose from.

Heavier the better. Beefy attachment points. Make sure it has all the rippers. If you don't have a hydraulic top link, I'd strongly consider getting that as well as it makes using a box blade 99.9999% more effective and efficient.

Hmm, ok. I do not have a hydraulic top link, reading up on these now actually and came across top-n-tilt setups. I currently only have one set of remotes on the back though, so that's a bigger upgrade to tilt. I suppose manually tilting and having the hydraulic top link gets you most of the way there though. Regardless, this seems like something I could add on shortly after and wouldn't change my options for box blades themselves, right?

 

[3gunr]

I agree a 6 ft would be the best size for you. i run a 6 ft behind a 28 hp and a38 hp tractor both do fine. Just take your time ,there is a learning curve. But it is fun .

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I'm not sure what exactly you have to deal with, without being there, but I can pretty much assure you that you would be happier with a box blade that is north of 700lbs, closer too or even over 1000lbs would be even better. I would be looking at a 72-78" unit for your tractor. A unit that would be a fairly good unit for your application for less $$$$ than a unit with hydraulic actuated scarifiers would be a ROBB.

As far as top & tilt, if you do much grading at all, then a T&T set is worth every penny. The T&T as well as the 2nd rear remote can be added at any time. A lot of people start off with just a hydraulic top link and then get a hydraulic side link after they realize how valuable they could be.

Good luck with your research and decisions.

 

[msal98]

Sounds like 72" is probably a good width. MtnViewRanch mentioned hydraulic actuated scarifiers. Bare with me guys, I'm pretty green so possibly dumb questions incoming. The hydraulic top link is just going to control the angle of the box, right? If that's true, I would need another set of remotes to work hydraulic actuated scarifiers, and then a 3rd set of remotes for the side link if I was to add that, right? This also means if I want to use actuated scarifiers, I need to buy a box blade that allows for that. For top/side link, the box blade itself doesn't make a difference (any of them can work with a top/side link). Let me know if I'm on the right track here...

I could definitely see myself adding the hydraulic top link shortly, but not immediately. I feel like I could probably hold off on the side link, and would probably skip getting a blade with actuated scarifiers unless the price increase was minimal. Given all of that, I'm leaning toward a 72" box blade without hydraulic scarifiers.

Any recommendations on brand? My Kioti dealer has a BB3072 (72", 680lb, 6 scarifiers) but I would need to call for the price. The other box blades I've been looking at are right around 500 pounds (EA/Land Pride). Not much locally on CL.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Most people do not get a box blade with hydraulic actuated scarifiers, (big money) But that is why I recommended the ROBB. A ROBB allows you to actuate the rippers with a single pull of a lever from the tractor seat vs stopping, getting off and then back on the tractor
after setting each individual ripper manually. More money than a std box blade, but heavy enough to get some work done and very easy and quick for making all the different adjustments. :thumbsup:

I would not consider a 500lb box blade for a CK size tractor let alone your DK. Weight is your friend for grading purposes, get as heavy as you can afford in the 72" size range.

Yes, ideally you get-have enough rear remotes to coincide with the amount of hydraulic adjustments you end up having. You can always add diverters to get more sets of rear remotes once you need more than the 2 that are available for your DK.

Please do not get a 500lb box blade.:no: The unit that your dealer has is border line as low as you will want to go for weight as it is.

Just my :2cents:

 

[msal98]

Thanks for the input Brian, sounds like I'm on the right track. The weight thing makes sense to me, I'll definitely take that into account. I'm not sure on the ROBB versus a standard BB. I have the cab so I think I'm going to have to get out of the seat regardless, unless I can reach through the open window. I guess the lever may still be quicker?

Assuming you get the scarifiers in the right spot, you ought to be able to control how deep they're digging in at least somewhat with the angle of the entire implement with a standard BB, right? Maybe not. Still learning like I mentioned .

Thoughts on the Dirt Dogg RBX72? It looks to be closer to a standard box blade, still has the lever, and is a bit heavier. I have no clue on the price of these either, I didn't find much online. I'm in NH and the closest dealer looks to be in MA. I would probably end up having to get something shipped.

One other thought - I do have the root grapple. My understanding is pulling scarifiers in a BB is going to do a lot better job though than digging in going forward with the grapple. Maybe a BB without scarifiers is an option though? I'm guessing that would bring the weight down even lower though which is a bad thing.

 

[CoyPatton]

My 2 cents worth:
Get as heavy a BB as you can that your tractor will lift! Your 3ph needs to be able to lift it so stay with this limit. Some things/places to pay attention to regarding any BB—No real order all are considerations weather new or old!
-overall weight—relates to being able to move material. Weight is your only down force
-build of the BB in key areas
-3 PH connection points, if looking used look for repairs to these areas. Avoid any BB that appears weak or repaired at any of these 3 points.
-bracing from 3 PH area to rest of the implement
-the entire scarifier area. How it is build into the BB, how the scarifiers adjust, how they are reinforced. If used BB, that all are present, they match in design, and have similar wear.
The top in T’N’T is something that I would consider sooner! I wish I had remotes to have the option. The ability to make that cutting edge adjustment as you grade is beyond handy. Yes, T’N’T will work with any BB/implement although with some it is less useful than with others.
One reference that I see from time to time is 1 foot width of implement for 4-6 hp of tractor. Ad you apply this remember that weight factors into that calculation also. Also ad you mentioned you have lots of woods, consider that any implement attached swings side of tractor ax you turn. Width and length (BB is usually fairly short) plays into clearance with trees.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

The lever on the ROBB can be pulled with a rope if need be. It pulls very easy. Not sure about the lever-handle on the Dirt Dog RBX72. These are not cheap either, probably close to the $2000 range. But that is far better than the $3500+ range for boxes with hydraulic actuated scarifiers.

I would not own a 3pt box blade without scarifiers.

Sounds like the easiest thing may be to go with what your dealer has in stock for now?:confused3: