I have a 4100 HST and plan on getting a box blade to do about 1/2 mile of dirt road. I have r-4 tires. Is a 4' blade too small and too light? I have heard that you should go a few inches wider than your tires. Mine are about 47" wide.
Grading box blade for 4100
- Thread starter GaryK
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Bird
Rest in Peace
jyoutz
Super Star Member
Bird, I wonder about that. I also have a JD4100 and have been planning to buy a 4' blade due to a rule of thumb I have heard. The rule is 1' of blade width to each 5HP. Since the 4100 is 20HP, then a 4' blade should be about right, huh? I do use a 5' rear scraper blade with no problem.
TomG
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2000
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- 610
- Location
- Ontario
- Tractor
- Ford 1710: Loader, Hoe, Snowblower, Box scrapper & 3ph Forks
I'm happy enough with my 6' box & 24 hp tractor. Have had some traction trouble with turfs and the scarifiers down, but the problems are manageable.
My first project was re-grading a 12' x 50' area on a slight slope fairly level for a place to put a mobile. I had to cut into the slope as well as move dirt from on end of the area to the other. To cut into the slope, I brought one side of the blade down with the lift leveler. Used the box to move dirt down the area, and finally, the back of the loader bucket to smooth it out.
My point is that doing side to side grading is much easier and more successful with a longer blade. I'd sacrifice some on the rule of thumb hp to length ratio to get more length for better grading. I know it's a tough call. I have to take smaller bites than I would with a 5' blade, so that can take more time. However, trying to get decent grading with a short blade takes time too.
Given my scant experience with these things, I wouldn't expect a box blade to be the magic bullet that fixes a dirt road. I face that as well. Box scrapers aren't big heavy graders, and it looks like road improvement takes some experience as well as patients. You have to fill in any big dips or bumps or the scraper just duplicates them in float, or makes new ones in position control.
The scrapper works well backing up and using the back blade like a dozer. Bumps can be cut and pushed into dips or carried with the box. I'm guessing that road improvement takes time. Eventually the dips and bumps get cured. Then, just dragging the scraper in float (at the right angle) will cut and carry enough dirt in the box to fill in small potholes and washboards.
The right angle is another thing. The top link length is critical to how the scrapper cuts and smoothes. I had to stop and re-adjust it frequently. I got a hydraulic top link with my pallet forks, and that will really improve the box scraper operation.
My first project was re-grading a 12' x 50' area on a slight slope fairly level for a place to put a mobile. I had to cut into the slope as well as move dirt from on end of the area to the other. To cut into the slope, I brought one side of the blade down with the lift leveler. Used the box to move dirt down the area, and finally, the back of the loader bucket to smooth it out.
My point is that doing side to side grading is much easier and more successful with a longer blade. I'd sacrifice some on the rule of thumb hp to length ratio to get more length for better grading. I know it's a tough call. I have to take smaller bites than I would with a 5' blade, so that can take more time. However, trying to get decent grading with a short blade takes time too.
Given my scant experience with these things, I wouldn't expect a box blade to be the magic bullet that fixes a dirt road. I face that as well. Box scrapers aren't big heavy graders, and it looks like road improvement takes some experience as well as patients. You have to fill in any big dips or bumps or the scraper just duplicates them in float, or makes new ones in position control.
The scrapper works well backing up and using the back blade like a dozer. Bumps can be cut and pushed into dips or carried with the box. I'm guessing that road improvement takes time. Eventually the dips and bumps get cured. Then, just dragging the scraper in float (at the right angle) will cut and carry enough dirt in the box to fill in small potholes and washboards.
The right angle is another thing. The top link length is critical to how the scrapper cuts and smoothes. I had to stop and re-adjust it frequently. I got a hydraulic top link with my pallet forks, and that will really improve the box scraper operation.
Bird
Rest in Peace
I think TomG answered you here. If you're going to be digging in a hard surface with the scarifiers, or trying to pull a full load of dirt frequently, the 4' box blade may be your best bet because you may have to take smaller bites with the 5' one. But since Gary said he had 1/2 mile of road to maintain, I wouldn't expect him to be pulling a full load of dirt as often as trying to smooth a surface, and the wider blade will be considerably faster. A lot depends on the kind of work you'll be doing, and personal preference.
Bird
Bird
Well, went to Agri-Supply of Greenville, NC to buy a 5' box blade and a 4' bush hog. They were sold out of both! Have to wait a couple of weeks now. Bought a tow bar just to get something. Prices are pretty good at this place, could walk around for hours.
Bird
Rest in Peace
GaryK, sounds like my kind of luck. I've told my wife several times that every time I go to town (which is as seldom as possible), I can find everything in the world except whatever I am looking for today./w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif
Bird
Bird
W5FL
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2000
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- Central Texas
- Tractor
- TYM T-1104/TX10 Loader Kubota M6800SD/LA1002 Loader Kubota RTV900
Sure is nice if the box blade is really heavy and at least 1/2 as wide as the road you are going to maintain. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
HD4010
Member
Hi,
I have a 53 or 54 inch box blade made by Cammond. I've seen some 48 inch ones at Tractor supply and the Cammond appears to be far better constructed and is proably 50% heavier.
I was a little concerned when I bought that it might be too big (mostly too heavy) for my tractor (4010 at the time). But I've used in with both my 4010 and 4100 (both with turfs) and am surprised how good they pull it. I had the loader on each when I was working with it and can easily pull a full box of dirt in 4x4 (box is probably 18in deep). With the scarcifiers down, I can loose traction if I go too deep, but again, I'm surprise at what these little guys will do in 4x4.
Now that I have it, I'm glad it's as heavy as it is because it mades for great Ballast when doing loader work.
I think you will be disappointed if you get a 48inch. I think the 53-54 I have is a good size for the 4100, but if you can't find this size and are faced with a choice of 48 vs 60, I'd go for the 60. I'm sure mine would pull it fine, especially if I had R1 or R4's.
Just my 53 or 54 cents...
Cheers
HD
I have a 53 or 54 inch box blade made by Cammond. I've seen some 48 inch ones at Tractor supply and the Cammond appears to be far better constructed and is proably 50% heavier.
I was a little concerned when I bought that it might be too big (mostly too heavy) for my tractor (4010 at the time). But I've used in with both my 4010 and 4100 (both with turfs) and am surprised how good they pull it. I had the loader on each when I was working with it and can easily pull a full box of dirt in 4x4 (box is probably 18in deep). With the scarcifiers down, I can loose traction if I go too deep, but again, I'm surprise at what these little guys will do in 4x4.
Now that I have it, I'm glad it's as heavy as it is because it mades for great Ballast when doing loader work.
I think you will be disappointed if you get a 48inch. I think the 53-54 I have is a good size for the 4100, but if you can't find this size and are faced with a choice of 48 vs 60, I'd go for the 60. I'm sure mine would pull it fine, especially if I had R1 or R4's.
Just my 53 or 54 cents...
Cheers
HD
jcmseven
Veteran Member
In my area, I think one could not go bigger than a 4' and have it work well due to the terrain. In Cary, where it is flatter, I think one could pull a five foot fine if appropriately ballasted.
John M
John M
jcmseven
Veteran Member
Gary,
I am sorry. I do not know why I thought Gary was from Cary. But, to not eat too much crow, I see you went shopping for tractor things in Greenville. Since it is flat there too, I do not feel too badly. Good luck and sorry for my confused state.
John M
I am sorry. I do not know why I thought Gary was from Cary. But, to not eat too much crow, I see you went shopping for tractor things in Greenville. Since it is flat there too, I do not feel too badly. Good luck and sorry for my confused state.
John M
JB4310
Super Member
GaryK said:
Are you cutting a new road or maintaining an existing? if you are just maintaining you might want to think about a york rake with wheels, even though I don't own one, I borrowed a 72" land pride from a friend and I was impressed at what that thing could do, I have a short dirt/gravel path/road into the wooded part of my yard about 150' long, I started with my 60" box blade and wasn't doing to good of a job so I put the rake on thinking I would just fix what I messed up and was shocked at how much rough work the rake was capable of doing and with the gauge wheels it was almost to easy and leaves a perfect finish. I've been bugging the guy ever since to sell me the rake since he doesn't need it.
Like I said I own a 60" box blade and with my 32 HP 4310 I don't think it could handle much bigger though I really don't have much experience with it, it makes an awesome sod remover and would be good to knock down heavy rough spots and fill deep low areas but it is tricky keeping it at just the right height although once it's full it tends to ride up on the surface so you can move material quit a ways, with the rake I was pulling out 2" saplings by the roots and never even bent a tine.
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JB4310
Super Member
Wow I just went back and noticed this thread was started in may of the year 2000! is that correct or did some dates get messed up with all the site work, oh well a little late with the advice, maybe some one else could benefit.
chopprjok2000
New member
I have a JD 4110, roughly the same tractor as the 4100, and as stated above, the 5 foot box blade works well with the tractor. It is an older JD box blade that has the scarifers and is really heavy duty. I am running turf tires, and maintain about a 250 foot driveway. It has never had a problem at all.
My dealer actually suggested the 5 foot box blade, as stated before, you want your blade wider than the stance of your tractor.
I have a 4 foot roto-tiller, and I often wish that I had gone to a larger tiller.
With the front end loader installed for balance, the 5 foot bush hog is still too big. The front end is light, and I would recommend a 4 foot bush hog.
I have recently acquired an old 4 foot finish mower, and it works really well behind the little tractor, but for my own yard, I still prefer the 54" mid mount mower that came with the tractor when I bought it.
Enjoy, they are the best form of stress relief that I have found.
My dealer actually suggested the 5 foot box blade, as stated before, you want your blade wider than the stance of your tractor.
I have a 4 foot roto-tiller, and I often wish that I had gone to a larger tiller.
With the front end loader installed for balance, the 5 foot bush hog is still too big. The front end is light, and I would recommend a 4 foot bush hog.
I have recently acquired an old 4 foot finish mower, and it works really well behind the little tractor, but for my own yard, I still prefer the 54" mid mount mower that came with the tractor when I bought it.
Enjoy, they are the best form of stress relief that I have found.
jimgerken
Veteran Member
I will give you one other thing to think about, as you make this decision. In my case, I bought the 4 foot KK boxblade for my 4100. It really doesn't completly cover the back tires, maybe an inch short. It weighed around 375. To this I added a slab of steel from the Used Iron yard (fifteen cents per pound), bolted onto the back wall of the boxblade. Now the BB weighs around 750 pounds. This makes its digging more effective, as if it is moving it seems to want to keep moving! Also, it makes a dandy loader-work counterweight. And since it is my heaviest implement and I use it quite often for the counterweight funcion, I am very glad it is not wider than the tractor. As far as work for the tractor (mine is hydrostatic), it can definitely stop the tractor cold with the scarifiers down. The four foot KK box has four scarifiers. I always follow boxblading with landscape rake, which is the six footer, so even when swiveled to the side completely it covers the back tires. This combo works well. I do not feel I am sacraficing anything with the boxblade the same or even a little less than the tractor width. I have used it to dig down 3 feet over an area of 32 feet by 35 feet for a building, including popping spruce tree roots out (trees were over a foot diameter).
