Boom Pole for QuikTach and Three Point Hitch

[DocHeb]

Well, I'm making my first post to the Build-It-Yourself forum, with a boom pole I designed and had a local welding shop "glue" together. I wanted a pole that would work on both my 3 PTH and also with my QuikTach skidsteer mounting plate for my FEL.

I started with a Universal Skidsteer Plate ($89 from the Bobcat Dealer). The steel came from the local steel supply ($83). They will cut to length for a nominal fee. The boom is 2 x 3 x 3/16" tubing 96" long, and the angled braces are 1 x 1 x 1/8" angle iron.

The attached picture shows the boom pole on the FEL, raised to the highest position.

 

[DocHeb]

Here is a rear view of the QuikTach and the boom pole with the universal plate as its base.

 

[DocHeb]

This is the front view of the boom pole plate on the FEL QuikTach.

 

[DocHeb]

The Boom pole also fits on the 3Pt. Some 3Pt boom poles attach without a top link, but my hydraulic top link makes up for the different geometry of the boom pole.

Here is a view of the boom pole at its lower position.

 

[DocHeb]

The hydraulic top link lifts the pole nicely.

 

[DocHeb]

Rear view with the universal plate attached to the 3Pt.

 

[DocHeb]

Dang Nabbit! I made sure nothing bound up when I raised and lowered the hydraulic top link, but as I raised the three point I didn't watch as closely - I heard a loud "BANG". /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif Should have used the closer hole. Back to the welding shop.

 

[DocHeb]

First job for the boom pole - carrying the floats for the boat dock down to the lake.

 

[ronjhall]

Chris
Nice project. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
Hope you were able to weld your toplink back together.

 

[Dargo]

I have always been curious about a hydro top link. What is involved in setting one up? Parts? Hydro outlet? Cost? Is there any "kit" to install one? I have a L5030HSTC and I've always thought those hydro top links were neat to have.

 

[Inspector507]

<font color="blue"> Normally 3Pt boom poles attach without a top link......?? </font>
All of them I have seen need 3 points of attachment.

BTW.......nice job /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[DocHeb]

The three-point boom poles I've seen have you take off the adjustable top-link, and the boom is attached directly to the tractor at the top-link bracket (similiar to Post Hole Diggers). You're right, they do have three points of attachment, but it is without the adjustable top link.

 

[DocHeb]

You'll need a rear hydraulic remote, a top link cylinder and two hoses. For my TC40D:

$253 First rear remote, installed
$149 Green Industries Category II Hydraulic Top Link
$60 Hoses with quick-connects from Tractor Supply
$5 Two 1" to 3/4" bushings to convert Category II link to CategoryI

Search for hydraulic top links in the Kubota forums and I'm sure you'll find specifics for your tractor. For example:

All TnT Created Equal?

 

[Inspector507]

I have always used mine with a top link.

 

[JRP]

Dargo,

A hydraulic top link is the first item I made and and the most important attachment I have. Go for it.

Chris,

Nice project. I have several suggestions:

1. 1 x 1 x 1/8 angle is not well suited for loads in compression. Just a little bend and your main pole will possibly break at the 3pt top link connection. A piece of 1 1/2" pipe on each side would be better.

2. I attached my pipes to the midpoint of the boom instead of the end. This leaves more room at the end.

3. You have not yet discovered a 3pt (Speeco or I-Match) quick hitch. It would have been great to have made yours so it would work with the bobtach and a Speeco. Mine fits a Speeco but not bobtach and it is very very fast to install. No pins. Drop it in place. Wish mine could be addapted to Bobtach, but is already weighs a lot.

4. I found the round loop at the end to be a poor way to connect a chain. The hook comes undone when it gets bouncy. I added a piece of 1/2" x 3" plate with two round shackel holes, a slotted hole that a chain fits through, and also has a chain hook welded on it. A picture is woth a thousand, so I'll look for one. Any how, my chain is always attached and can't get lost, and the chain hook can be used for a longer chain.

5. The connection point at the midpoint of the boom is also a good idea. It might effectively double the lifting capacity.

I think a tractor attachment is built well when you can't accidently tear it up. Otherwise, you probably will. Test yours by chaining it to a big tree stump at the mid-point chain connection. My boom pole can lift the front tractor tires off the ground.

Overall, a Hyd. top link and a boom pole work great together. Nice project with great ideas.

 

[DocHeb]

Thanks for the suggestions.

The metal tube at the top end of the boom pole is 2" receiver stock. I haven't drilled the holes yet so it isn't usable, but I think I will use your suggestion of welded chain hooks.

There are also two pieces of receiver stock welded to the mounting plate base. The plan was to make an insert with caster wheels to make it easier to roll around (I wasn't sure how much everything would weigh). As it turns out, I can lift the unit easily, and probably won't need the casters.

 

[GoodGuy]

JRP.........
Where's your pictures ????
We need pictures.......
Eric

 

[mopacman]

I agree with JRP the 1x1x1/8 is not good in this use. Change it to tubing as heavy as the boom. I like the idea of useing it on the front or rear. Larry

 

[jinman]

Nice project, Chris! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif Like Inspector507, my boompole also uses a toplink. Are you confusing this with the boom on a PHD? In addition to the larger tubing for the boom support, my pole also has a piece of round stock welded over the top of the boom to form a cantilevered truss structure for additional support.

I've thought about doing exactly as you have done and adapt the pole for mounting on the loader. I have a friend who did that and used the pole to lift steel when he built his metal building. It worked well, but he said only light loads could be lifted without ballast. Even with ballast, the lift capacity that far out is really reduced. Of course, when you have a load far out front and high, you have a severe tipping hazard. Be very careful with high loads. On the 3PH, the toplink really gives you the extra benefit of being able to put the end of the pole on the ground. Without that, my pole would not go any lower than about 3'.

 

[skid mark]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I agree with JRP the 1x1x1/8 is not good in this use. )</font>

Another option might be to switch the braces so that they are above instead of below the boom, placing them in tension where they will do much better.