board and batten siding

/ board and batten siding #1  

adammsmith

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Hey guys, I've been creeping around for a while and have worn the search engine out. I am building a 32x36 horse barn. I want to install b&b siding. How durable is pine? Oak is over twice as expensive. Is it worth it? Any info you have would be appreciated.
 
/ board and batten siding #2  
N0.2or 3 Pine would be good choice other than expensive.I used 12"smart
start siding.Put on vertical with inch and half bats.Easy to paint already
primed only drawback needs solid sheathing and cant stain.Good luck
 
/ board and batten siding #3  
It should be fine as long as you treat it with something. Is the wood going to be touching the ground? I wouldn't worry about grade as much as type of wood. Infact the lesser grade{more knots} would be prettier if you were to leave it natural.
 
/ board and batten siding #4  
I built my 34X26 garage with a gambrel roof 18 years ago and installed planed 10 inch pine with a 3 inch rough cut for batten and then stained it, it's still looks really good for all the weather we have up here in eastern canada. The only problem we had was that we ran out of 3" and by the time we cut some more it was spring before we install got around to installing it and the 10" warped so we had to remove 4 pieces. Jim
 
/ board and batten siding
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Thanks for the info . It will be 3" up the pt 2x8 and 2x8 will have 2 inches of rock under it. So it will be 5" above the ground.
 
/ board and batten siding #6  
A lot depends on your location. Here in FL, the termites would be taking the siding down as fast as you could put it up, unless it was something like cypress. In the south east, I'd make sure it was high enough off the ground that you could inspect for mud tubes before they caused much damage.
 
/ board and batten siding #7  
My outbuilding is pine board and batten without stain or finish -- it is now about 14 years old -- still not completely gray. I have never seen a building sided in oak:eek:
 
/ board and batten siding #8  
Pretty common in my part of Georgia. It seems to hold up well. Good point about termites if they are in your area. Might be worth having an exterminator spray if that is a problem where you are.

MarkV
 
/ board and batten siding #9  
Hey guys, I've been creeping around for a while and have worn the search engine out. I am building a 32x36 horse barn. I want to install b&b siding. How durable is pine? Oak is over twice as expensive. Is it worth it? Any info you have would be appreciated.
Hello and welcome aboard. You don't say where you are located as that would help me suggest a local wood specie-something available without a lot of import trucking freight. You say oak is an option-never heard of oak being used for B&B.
Don't use anything green. It wiil split and warp as it dries. Use KD or AD stock.
Don't use anything surfaced (unless you are only applying stain) as it will not hold paint especially to weather. Rough or resawn gives "tooth" to the paint and will last longer in between paint jobs.
Be sure to stain/paint the backsides of the B&Bs before installation. Both sides need to be equally stabilized. Most siding mills will offer this service. They run the boards through a top and bottom paint/stain fiber roller setup. Unless you want to spend a lot of time doing this yourself, and yes, you do have to do this, select a color/stain and pay the mill to do it. The B7Bs will come to you dry and ready to work with. Plan on some drying/lead time.
The wider the board, the more apt it will cup. Don't get sold on a scant 3/4" plank. The thicker the better.
Block the stud bays vertically every two feet (min) for B&B nailing, preferably during wall frame assembly on the slab/ground. Applying siding blocking after the walls are standing is a real bummer.
Nail with hot dipped galvies as any other nail will not hold up as well.
I recommend cedar if it is available-outside of redwood, it is the most docile.
If the boards have knots, demand and pay for STK (Select Tight Knots).
Some mills will on the back of the board apply glue and fabric patches over all of the knots to diminish any down the road popouts.
Horses chew. Protect your wood with metal edging,etc.
 
/ board and batten siding #10  
1. The amount of roof overhang has much to do with the life of this siding.

2. Quality of stain/paint job affects lifespan.

3. Installation affects lifespan. Bottoms of boards should be beveled or you should install a drip edge. Lots of carpentry detail to follow such as where you nail and avoid splitting the grain.
 
/ board and batten siding #11  
Most old barns we see were sided with the cheapest woods available
At best they got a coating of whitewash from time to time.
In my area that would have been popular or hemlock as both are generally considered undesirable for construction. (in fact not admisable for studs)
Hemlock when dry wants to split but accepts nails easily when green.
Popular rots easily if it gets wet, but for siding OK if not in contact with earth.

Do nothing for a finish and it will grey fairly fast on its own.

Of course if you want the best, cedar is the most resistant and greys the fastest.

Myself, I'd use what is the cheapest and spray with light grey stain just to start the aged look process and never look back. (built a garage that way about 25 years ago and it is still in good shape, used galvanised tin for roof on home made trusses.)

Good luck! have fun.
 
/ board and batten siding
  • Thread Starter
#12  
I live right outside of Atlanta. The pine would be $1000 and the oak $1500. I am just a little concerned about the pine being a softwood. I don't mind spending a little more if the oak is a better product. The roof has a 1ft overhang.
 
/ board and batten siding #13  
I put an oak trailer floor in one time thinking it would hold up longer. Wrong! I have western siding on my house here in East Tx. We average 40+ inches of rain with a high humidity. I built it in 1983 and it has no evidence of decay. It will turn dark but can be cleaned up. So far as looks and durability I don't think you can beat it. It's not cheap.
 

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/ board and batten siding #14  
Anything in the red oak family has open cells and will rot quicker than pine. White oak has closed cells and is favorable for outside use.
 
/ board and batten siding #15  
The pine will be much easier to put up and should last as long as the oak if kept dry by eaves and roof. Softwood has resins in it that make it longer lasting than a lot of hardwoods - remember cedar is a softwood. If you want to ensure carpenter ants and termites do not eat it, spray it with a borax solution (commercially called TimBor and other things) prior to any finishing. Even with a nail gun I think putting up oak must be tough -- JMHO
 
/ board and batten siding #16  
Oak siding was usually installed green from the sawmill. Easy to nail green, but would split unless you blunted the nail ends first and you had to watch where you nailed. Once oak dries out and hardens, you can forget nailing it by hand or with an air gun unless you pre drill. Predrilling makes the most sense so you don't ruin any boards anyway.

The other thing some folks used to do was to soak the exposed ends in a product called penetrol or some other kind of preservative, but much of this siding was simply installed and painted.

Most of the barn siding failures I see are at the bottom where water from roof drainage splashes up on the siding over time. So you see a lot of repairs where tin has been installed in these places but the upper part of the siding continues to be the original wood.
 
/ board and batten siding #17  
Whatever wood you choose, dont get hung up on all of your boards being a certain width. Having some 10, 12, 14 inch boards all mixed in gives it that country look. Same goes for the batten.

Looking at old farm houses sided with heart pine thats what they did a lot.

As far as wood goes look into cypress, it may be rather expensive but no staining, rotting or bugs....ever.
 
/ board and batten siding #18  
I put an oak trailer floor in one time thinking it would hold up longer. Wrong! I have western siding on my house here in East Tx. We average 40+ inches of rain with a high humidity. I built it in 1983 and it has no evidence of decay. It will turn dark but can be cleaned up. So far as looks and durability I don't think you can beat it. It's not cheap.

I just noticed I put western siding. Wrong. Western cedar siding. Bugs don't like it either.
 
 
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