Blow-in insulation behind pegboard?

   / Blow-in insulation behind pegboard? #31  
personally i hate pegboard. even with the plastic clips to hold the hooks is pita. i had a customer last week that wanted pegboard in his closet and had blown in insulation in one corner of a wall. its the gray cellulose stuff -if you tap the pegboard the stuff just flys out of the holes. i took the pegboard down and installed roxul for sound barrier for him. the pegboard was already white on one side so it brighten up the closet.

If i were you - i would be careful about adding blow in insulation because if you have metal siding - you WILL have moisture issues and all that money is wasted. I would just pull the pegboard off and install roxul. roxul has a "higher" melting point at 2100 f degrees and attic cat is classified at 1382f. plus you wouldnt worry about stuff flying out of the holes. it still will be insulated as long the insulation drys out completely.
I persoally think foam is best in buildings with metal siding but you need to install fire retardant covering like drywall, but hey this is a shop... no easy solutions here...
 
   / Blow-in insulation behind pegboard? #32  
When we built our house in 2012/2013, we decided to go with spray foam and cellulose in the 2x6 walls. There's about 1.5-2" of spray foam, then cellulose blown over that. One thing I like about the spray foam is that it makes the house snug as a bug and really seals up the walls. I also like the buffer it provides to keep any water vapor in the walls above the dew point, to avoid moisture problems. I am sure the insulation experts arrived at that arrangement as optimal somehow, in terms of function and cost.

Our attic is entirely blown cellulose. At some point I'd like to add more insulation up there and I'll be researching my options. I assume almost any blown in product will be OK on top of the cellulose.

By the way, one hard lesson I learned about peg board -- all my peg board accessories and hooks, many of which are hand-me-downs that date from the 1960s and newer, are sized for 1/4" peg board. Well, we bought a half dozen sheets of peg board for the workshop in my new house, and I was surprised to find all the hooks tip down when hung on the board. Turns out peg board sold at Lowes and HD now is about 1/8" thickness. They don't even offer 1/4" at these stores. I haven't searched to see if I can find 1/4" anymore, but I will if I ever need to install peg board again. The 1/8" stuff seems plenty stiff and has no problem holding lots of heavy tools, but I just don't like having the hooks all angled downhill. I have several long hooks for things like levels and hand saws, and you can watch the tools slide away from the wall after being hung up. A few minutes later and they are all at the downhill end of the hook.
 
   / Blow-in insulation behind pegboard? #33  
I tried pegboard a long time ago when I bought my first house and thought it would be nice over my work bench in my garage. I hated it. Now I just put up OSB and put a screw into the OSB where I want to hang a tool. If I already had pegboard up, I might try to live with it, but more then likely, I would just cover it up with OSB or plywood.
 
   / Blow-in insulation behind pegboard? #34  
It's kind of funny, out in my barn I have taken to putting nails in the wall girts to hang stuff. You can really hang a lot of crap on the walls -- to free up other space in the barn and make everything easy to find. I just keep an assortment of 16D-20D nails, and some larger spikes, and it's all I need out there. Adds a real charming country feel to the place to have tools and other crap randomly hanging on the wall (my wife says it's starting to look like the inside of a Cracker Barrel restaurant).
 
   / Blow-in insulation behind pegboard? #35  
I like screws because I can easily take them out and change locations. I've also found that for my wrenches, I have several in the same size that I can hang several on a three inch deck screw, or just one on a sheetrock screw.

For my shop, I don't like tool boxes. I like to be able to look on the wall and see what I have, or what isn't put away and missing. Sockets are on an open tray off to the side of my workbench where I can see if there is one missing at a glance. For me, the struggle is putting stuff away and having it there ready to use when I need it.
 
   / Blow-in insulation behind pegboard?
  • Thread Starter
#36  
It appears to be T-111 siding but I've only had the place for a week. You're right I need to know if it's sealed. It has several layers of paint.

I wonder if the AttiCat would dust out of the holes? If there was just a few holes, the pressure changes would each cause a puff of air out of the few holes. For example every time a door slams. But when it's completely perforated I don't see that happening. But certainly there can be some air movement and a dusty insulation would be trouble. Like what if you bump the wall, oilcanning the pegboard in a little, does it puff dust out like the guy above said? So what about AttiCat type? If there's truly no dust then it seems like it will work. And if not then I can bury it all in drywall.

So how do I find out if there's no dust? There's "not much dust compared to cellulose" .......and...... "NO DUST!" How do I find out where AttiCat falls (in that continuum)?

It's gettin' down to it, I need to s**t or get off the pot. I'm not looking forward to taping and mudding.

Something to be said for having a little time to put out a shop fire (as opposed to RUN!)
 
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   / Blow-in insulation behind pegboard?
  • Thread Starter
#37  
For my shop, I don't like tool boxes. I like to be able to look on the wall and see what I have, or what isn't put away and missing. Sockets are on an open tray off to the side of my workbench where I can see if there is one missing at a glance. For me, the struggle is putting stuff away and having it there ready to use when I need it.

This is the conclusion / shop configuration I'm coming to..... If I have to open a drawer I think that's one reason it doesn't get put away.
 
   / Blow-in insulation behind pegboard?
  • Thread Starter
#38  
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Goin' at it - with AttiCat! Thanks Eddie for the description of AttiCat. It was just like you said, no dust, no itching.

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All blown.

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In some places, the fiber comes out the holes. I broomed it and that pulled most of them out, clean enough to paint.

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Lots of plugs. All drilled with one 5-year old 18V DeWalt battery

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Primed for paint. Started drilling & blowing at noon, finished to this point at 10:30pm. Long day.

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Somma you fellers know what that's all about.... yep cleaned the steel today too. That task always takes longer than you'd like. Here in Seattle they put a heavy black gunk on the rect tube. But cleaned off its a nice shiny gun-blue. :thumbsup:
 

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   / Blow-in insulation behind pegboard? #39  
Looking' good Sodo! Did you have to cut two plugs between the studs because of blockers half way up?
 
   / Blow-in insulation behind pegboard? #40  
I like screws because I can easily take them out and change locations. I've also found that for my wrenches, I have several in the same size that I can hang several on a three inch deck screw, or just one on a sheetrock screw.

For my shop, I don't like tool boxes. I like to be able to look on the wall and see what I have, or what isn't put away and missing. Sockets are on an open tray off to the side of my workbench where I can see if there is one missing at a glance. For me, the struggle is putting stuff away and having it there ready to use when I need it.
I agree with using screws, much easier to place without whacking my thumb with a hammer. I don't put my tools up on the wall though, well except for my pipe wrenches, hack saw, crow bar and a few other things that I rarely use. Wrenches are in my tool boxes, one drawer for my SAE, one for my metric, one for my screw drivers, one for pliers, one for my air tools and 4" grinder stuff, 2 small drawers hold my punches, chisels, flashlight, tire pressure gauge, felt tip markers and other metal markers plus a few other small items. I have one drawer for my portable socket set in 1/4" and 3/8" drive for small stuff. My larger sockets are on a shelf at the back of my shop along with my tap and die set, screw assortment and air nailer/stapler and assorted staples. Lots of other stuff on the 20 foot long shelf also like chargers for my batteries, chainsaws etc.
I put everything back in it's place when finished, that way I can find it again (CRS syndrome doesn't work against me that way). I hate working at my brother-in-laws shop because he seldom puts things back when finished and almost never puts the back in the same place. We spend more time looking for something than doing the work. Most of the time, if a machine is drivable, I have him bring it to my shop which is only about 350 feet away anyway and I can fix it faster than we can find the tools at his place.
 

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