Block Heater needed for S370D?

[KenBer]

I recently purchased a 78 Satoh Beaver S370D. I live in Maryland, so the cold isn't too horrible. I've heard these things are pretty cold hearted - Should I worry about needing some type of block heater? If so, any recommendations, suggestions, or lessons learned?

Also, if anyone else is interested - I've had really good success tracking down crossovers for the oil/air/fuel filters...

Thanks,
-Ken

 

[mit]

i got the mitsu d1850 this summer was having a little trouble starting.there is a glow indicator light on the dash that got so hot that it burned thru.i removed the dash and used emery paper to clean the connections which was quite rusted.i put a piece of metal to support the glo indicator now.it seem to start easier now.it maybe worth the trouble for u to clean up yours so power going to your glo plugs will be adequate to pre heat effectively.the d1850 is diesel. if yours is too give it a shot.

 

[shaley]

I live further South than you and I use a block heater on a timer to keep the oil up to temp so starting is not so hard on the bearings.
NAPA can cross to the ZERO Start P/N. Measure the freeze plug dia. and find a unit in the catalog.
Translectric, Inc. The Heavy Duty Parts Pros

 

[mit]

a sparex dealer may be able to hook u up to block heater and hose heaters try Sparex Incorporated. - Wholesale Distributor Of Tractor Parts

 

[diyDave]

Kenber- I put a pot style block heater on my Beaver II , plugged it into the gauge port on the left hand side of the engine, and up to the thermostat hose. You could also try a lower radiator hose heater, or a freeze plug heater into the freeze plug behind the starter on the left side of the motor, but you have to pull the starter to install it. Good luck and welcome to tractorbynet!

 

[KenBer]

Thanks everyone for all the info... I think I'll look into a freeze plug heater.

I also need to checkout how well my glow plugs are working. My dash indicator gets a little warm - but nothing super hot. What is the best way to test everything? I was going to first check if I'm getting 12v at each plug, then maybe see how many amps each is drawing -- then lastly pull them both out and test them by holding them against the block as see if they light up. Is this the best approach?

Thanks in advance,
-Ken

 

[mit]

that sounds like a good approach. go to Valley Power and click on wiring diagram.the power to the glo plugs comes from the switch then go to the glo indicator then hits the plugs.like i posted before clean the connections at the glo inndicator and the plugs.u may have to disassemble the indicator to clean it properly.be careful to hold all the screws at the back while unscrewing the front on the indicator light.if it is getting too warm could be from rusted connections.lets know if u find that.

 

[KenBer]

Thanks. I was just looking at the schematic and something else occured to me: When I turn my ignition swith to off -- the tractor keeps running. I need to throttle it way way down or stall it to shut it off. Is this normal?

 

[oliver28472]

That is normal on a 370. There is no fuel solenoid shut off.

 

[mit]

yes that sounds normal. u have to stop it with the trottle lever.u put the lever all the way down to start and u put it all the way up to shut off(stop).my d 1850 works this way too.

 

[wushaw]

When you pull on the rod from the shutoff position it will pull smooth till it hits a wall (fuel shutoff) then you just pull it a little further, this will be just above idle.
The adjust eng speed accordingly.

I have used this method for 7 years.

 

[mit]

i dont get this. can u put up a picture? cause my trottle stick dont work like this.my idle is between stop and start.

 

[wushaw]

i dont get this. can u put up a picture? cause my trottle stick dont work like this.my idle is between stop and start.

Humm, I guess let me try it a little different. Here is a picture of my 372, the stop position is all the way foward. The start or idle is just a little aft of start, I don't want to start it with alot of fuel going to it so when I pull on the lever I can feel it when it hits the fuel on portion on the injector pump and that's where I start it from then adjust the rpms to my liking.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/attachments/75083d1177221220-new-tiller-dsc00327.jpg

 

[mit]

that is one cute tractor.i guess mine is kind of similar to what u said about the lever.except on mine i cant feel the pump when it kicks in so i pull it till it stops which is full trottle so it starts at 2000 rpm then i trottle down to 1000rpm.when the engine is warm i start it at about 1000 rpm position.the start position is marked at the full trottle position.your tractor looks nice and new.i bought mine used from the net dont really know a lot about it yet.bought it to make my life easier so far been spending a lot of time fixing little things on it.been learning some things too about diesel.by the way is your fuel filter inside of a glass bowl?

 

[wushaw]

It is inside a plastic bowl, that one is four years old. The exhaust is a built up glass pack since the original one rotted out. I just put new tires on the ft. this summer. I am guessing the rears are original...they have tubes in them.

I am going to have to replace the TSC seat sometime soon since it is comming apart.

Overall I am happy with this little tractor, I have done quite a bit with it within it's parameters.

 

[mit]

pic of my d 1850 with front loader.