Help Getting JD 6400 Started In Cold Weather After Sitting for 5 years

[landrand]

If u do have fuel at the feed line.. tighten it back up and go to the out side of the filter head.. got fuel there.??
If no, pull the filter down..
Don’t forget to keep cycling the key..
Good luck..
But experience tells me, once u get fuel to the injection pump.. it’s not going to go any further..
I don’t mean to rain on your parade.. Keep going and trace that blockage down..& we’ll cross that pump problem (if there is one) when we get there..

Good info. I'll follow this process tomorrow and hopefully narrow down my issues. Thanks for the help!

 

[landrand]

Which the key ON & the supply pump running, loosen the bleeder on the filter..
Once u get fuel there, move over to the injection pump..
It should have a bleed screw on the injection pump by the name plate.(CAV/DELPHI) it’s a double screw.. 7/16 body with a 5/16 bleeder..
Loosen the 5/16 until fuel flows with no air and snug it back up..
NOW.. loosen the lines AT THE INJECTORS.. all of them or as many as u can get to..
Now MAKE SURE you have 12v to the shut off solenoid on the injection pump and crank the engine until fuel squirts out of the loosened lines AT THE INJECTORS..
After a couple rounds on the starter and no fuel is coming out of the loosened fuel lines, your injection pump is gummed up after sitting for 5 years and will need to be removed for service..
Good luck

This is the list of fuel system correction I've done so far:

1. Drained old diesel fuel from tank and replaced with fresh fuel.
2. Replaced Fuel Filter, fuel supply line, and fuel return lines.
3. Replaced in-tank fuel transfer pump/sending unit.

Here's where I'm at in bleeding fuel system"

1. Opened bleed screw at filter, turned on ignition, and waited till fuel exited bleed screw. Tightened screw.

2. Opened Fuel Supply Line at injection pump and turned on ignition and let fuel bleed from supply line at injection pump.

3. I verified I have 12V at the Fuel Shutoff Solenoid on the Fuel Injection Pump. I put a magnetic compass next to fuel Shutoff Solenoid and observed compass needle move after turning on ignition. I was going to take off Fuel Shutoff Solenoid to clean and verify operation, but getting if off the injection pump would be very difficult without taking off the fuel Supply line.

Anyway, I opened the line at the first injector and cranked the engine several times. Each time I looked at the line and did not see any fuel coming out of by the injector. How many times should I do this? I suspect that my fuel pump is gummed up.

Here's a picture what my Fuel Injector Pump looks like. It's a Lucas and I believe I have a mechanical Fuel Injector pump system. I took pics of the injector pump but they didn't turn out. I grabbed this pic from the Internet that resembles my pump.

Looking for recommendations, opinions on what my next steps should be. Thanks for the help!

 

[thepumpguysc]

Slip a deep wall 15/16 socket over the solenoid and loosen it.. finish removal by hand..
With any luck it’s the old style and the plunger and spring will come out..
On the new style the plunger and spring will NOT come out of the body..
BTW.. loosen ALL THE LINES AT THE INJECTORS.. not 1 at a time..
When cranking, pull the throttle to wide open..

 

[landrand]

Slip a deep wall 15/16 socket over the solenoid and loosen it.. finish removal by hand..
With any luck it’s the old style and the plunger and spring will come out..
On the new style the plunger and spring will NOT come out of the body..
BTW.. loosen ALL THE LINES AT THE INJECTORS.. not 1 at a time..
When cranking, pull the throttle to wide open..

Good info! I was cranking without any thought about the throttle needing to be wide open. I'm not sure what the position the throttle was in.

Went shopping yesterday looking for wrenches that I can potentially use to get to the injectors. My big hands and long open end wrenches weren't working for a couple of the spots. I'll try the socket for the solenoid. If I remember correctly, there was a horizontal screw (that is set with a wire running through it) that was in the way. Maybe I'll sacrifice a cheap socket and try to modify/grind it down to fit. Thanks for the help!

 

[landrand]

Slip a deep wall 15/16 socket over the solenoid and loosen it.. finish removal by hand..
With any luck it’s the old style and the plunger and spring will come out..
On the new style the plunger and spring will NOT come out of the body..
BTW.. loosen ALL THE LINES AT THE INJECTORS.. not 1 at a time..
When cranking, pull the throttle to wide open..

I loosened all the injectors. Set the throttle to full and cranked it 5 times for about 20 seconds each time. No fuel at injector.

Removed fuel shutoff solenoid. Cleaned it, and verified it works correctly by jumping it to solenoid hot wire.

Any ideas? I'll research to see if this injection pump has a bleeder valve. I'll try that next if it does.

 

[thepumpguysc]

If your not getting fuel out by now.. STOP..
U can lift the top cover and try to free the metering valve.. if THATS free..the pumping plungers are stuck & they’re deep in the pump..

 

[thepumpguysc]

If it sat for 5 years, I think ur pizzin in the wind..
I don’t mind helping, if u don’t mind put’n in the time.
Just do a Google search for CAV DPA.. there should be a few videos of top cover removal..
U really don’t have to take it off.. just familiarize yourself w the mv..

 

[landrand]

Ok. I've been working on this tractor for a few weeks now. I don't mind. Actually, I enjoy learning about it.

Reading the pump tag, it says model 25045DMG.

 

[sandman2234]

Look for a way to hook heater hoses from your tractor to your pickup. You can use the heater hose connections and buy a couple extra long pieces of hose to run between your tractor and your pickup. If you can't find a way to attach hoses to the tractor, consider making a T to go in the radiator hose.and buy a cheap radiator cap to add another inlet to the coolant system.
Running your pickup to warm the block up, while also charging the battery with jumper cables will help in getting it started once you have the fuel issue fixed.
Good luck,
David from jax

 

[thepumpguysc]

That # is the pump serial number..
The pump # will be something like: 3242F150

 

[landrand]

If it sat for 5 years, I think ur pizzin in the wind..
I don’t mind helping, if u don’t mind put’n in the time.
Just do a Google search for CAV DPA.. there should be a few videos of top cover removal..
U really don’t have to take it off.. just familiarize yourself w the mv..

Ok, just watched a video on removing top cover and locating the metering valve. I can just tilt cover and perhaps giggle metering valve to get it unstuck... I'll give that a try now.

 

[landrand]

That # is the pump serial number..
The pump # will be something like: 3242F150

Ok. It's 3349F111x.

 

[landrand]

Look for a way to hook heater hoses from your tractor to your pickup. You can use the heater hose connections and buy a couple extra long pieces of hose to run between your tractor and your pickup. If you can't find a way to attach hoses to the tractor, consider making a T to go in the radiator hose.and buy a cheap radiator cap to add another inlet to the coolant system.
Running your pickup to warm the block up, while also charging the battery with jumper cables will help in getting it started once you have the fuel issue fixed.
Good luck,
David from jax

Good to know. Thanks.

 

[thepumpguysc]

There’s probably a shut off bar that links the mv to the shut off shaft..
It going to move when u jiggle the mv free..
Just keep in mind that “hook” needs to be connected to the shut off “nub”.. when u put the cover back on..
Or.. seeing u have an electric shut off, leave the shut off bar out.. just don’t loose it..

 

[landrand]

I jiggled and twisted the mv. Put cover back on, and cranked it a few times. No fuel coming out at injectors.

Didn't pay attention to the the shutoff bar when I closed up the cap, as I did'nt read your last post.Think that shutoff bar did something to restrict fuel? I can remove the cap tomorrow and try it again, paying more attention to the shutoff bar.

 

[thepumpguysc]

How did it look under the top cover.?? Rusty.??
Was the mv stuck.??

 

[thepumpguysc]

I forgot to mention that the pump will be full of fuel..
Was it.??

 

[landrand]

How did it look under the top cover.?? Rusty.??
Was the mv stuck.??

The vertical plate that connects to the plunger for the MV had some rust on the top part.

The MV was a little snug at first. Moving it a bit freed it up nicely.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Kool..
Take care of that shut off bar question and hope it pumps..
Good luck

 

[landrand]

Kool..
Take care of that shut off bar question and hope it pumps..
Good luck

I'll relook at the shutoff bar and cranking it again again in an hour or two. In the meantime, I did some research last night on how to remove the pump. Say's I need a special tool (JDG670A or KJD10159) to remove pump from the timing gear cover. Here's what the manual indicated for a Lucas CVS pump. Do I need to invest in one of these tools or is there an alternative solution to removing the pump. Again, thanks for all your help!

Attach special tool JDG670A to gear (or KJD10159 to timing gear cover). Remove the three nuts attaching fuel injection pump to engine front plate. Turn cap screw of special tool clockwise until pump shaft is loosened from conical seat of drive gear. On engine with 37 kW auxiliary drive only, remove the center forcing screw from JDG670A tool and tighten the two cap screws until gear is pulled against cover. This will avoid that gear becomes disengaged from upper idler gear. Check for the presence of timing marks. If necessary, mark both the pump and the front plate