Treat the base layer and immediate surroundings with Bifen IT or similar and plan to retreat the perimeter yearly. Ants appreciate the temp stability provided by the thermal mass of masonry, and sometimes fewer common surface predator access. (ant lions, birds, etc)
My peak years of pouring/laying driveways and patios were in the mid '80s, and I see how ground type affects management decades later.
Over heavier soils there are typically fewer 'driveway ant' and weed issues. These areas settle a bit less as they are undermined less by insect activity. I live on a 'dune', and 6" and 8" concrete poured before then when a sand/gravel pit can resound like a drum head in a few spots from drilling hammer, battle-bot, or 70lb HFT floor jack activity.
Don't neglect grading with pavers. In our temperate climate (high '80s Fri, <40 this morning) they're are more susceptible to frost-heaving in Springtime. Adding perimeter drain tile and even a sump & pump has been the salvation of some areas that just couldn't be drained well. (drastic, but very effective if frost-proofed as needed)
Curved borders may mean more fuss to lay/trim to fit, and squared corners can be more work to mow/trim around. Catch a corner block on a mower deck and you'll be glad you planned for possible repair. Running the compactor 'over the top' when 'sanding' cracks is ok if paver surface isn't marred. Concrete vs fancy patterned pieces can make this 'doable' or not.
Another :2cents:
