I tried to loosen a tie rod on my 911 and it would not budge after hitting, banging and a wide assortment of four letter words. Soaked it in PB Blaster for five minutes and it came off with a crescent wrench. The other side didn't budge with LW or WD, and then came off after a PB soak. I'm converted.
They also make a spray lubricant that has Teflon in it. It leaves blue-grey residue behind after it dries, so you need to be careful where you use it, but I haven't found anything better for getting old stuck locks to work like new. I use it on the cheap locks on my pickup tool box, and the keys slide in like butter.
Case-IH Farmall 45A, Kubota M8540 Narrow, New Holland TN 65, Bobcat 331, Ford 1920, 1952 John Deere M, Allis Chalmers B, Bombardier Traxter XT, Massey Harris 81RC and a John Deere 3300 combine, Cub Cadet GT1554
Kroil is also a very good one but you have to order from Kano labs to get it. They have a lot of different products for almost any application. Kano Labs website
RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
Since I got pb blaster ( back when i was working on an old rusty disc harrow ) I havn't used the liquid wrench for more than spraying and washing tools down after work...
Murrays and TSC sells PBlaster in gallon bulk cans. They also include a spray bottle for it although I use a larger plastic spray bottle like my wife uses for fly repellent for the horses.
The stuff is quite a bit cheaper in gallons than by the aerosol cans.
I've been using PB ever since I snitched a can from one of our mechanics at the shop. Makes Liquid Wrench look like Kool Aide.
The other day I was using my old Dearborn 2-bottom plow and snapped the 5/8 inch bolt that held on the landside wheel. I thought that I might be done for the day but I sprayed the rusted broken off bolt with PB blaster and finished my cup of coffee. When the coffee was done I took a blunt punch and hit the broken bolt still rusted in the plow body and to my amazement it backed out of the hole without hesitation. I'm sold on the stuff.
Yep. Welcome to the wonderful world of PB! It also has a fairly high heat tolerance. If there's a particularly difficault item to remove, heat it up to almost the cherry red and soak the PB to it. As it cools, it sucks the PB down into it and will come right off. Neat stuff.
okay.are we getting royalties for all this? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( ...heat it up to almost the cherry red...)</font>
Just heating the female portion of a threaded connection is usually enough to break most anything loose. I have actually mated (unthreaded) rings to shafts using a method similar to this. Freeze the shaft (liquid nitrogen) and heat the ring. Quickly slip the hot ring onto the cold shaft, and make darn sure it's where you want it. Once the temperature equalizes, the two parts are essentially welded together.
Yep. Did that a few times, too. Froze the inner, heated the outer. I had a couple incidents this week where heat wasn't enough to yank it off the shaft. Was concerned about cracking the cast pulley. That PB just always amazes me.