Best implement for road grading, for a 40HP CUT, regardless of cost?

[GRUMPA]

OK Here, As mentioned above 3/4 gravel brought in is a really good start providing it has some smaller (like sand) for bonding with the pre-existing road. I have got over 1000 hrs on my 4 1/2 mile road and it's a constant project. In one of my really old posts one person figured I would need over 9k ton of rock brought in. I've got a box blade and for the most part I have to angle the blade as to create a high centered road. But it dosent really make the road flat the blade just kinda follows along. In other post from the past I've read where some creative folks built gage wheels for their box blades. I personally don't have those on my box blade but instead have a landscape rake that works out rather well. I've used mine on creating driveways for neighbors all the time up here. So to sum it up I would recommend a box blade of at least 6' wide(WITH GAGE WHEELS) or an equally as wide landscape rake just to fill in the low spots with (loose) gravel. The landscape rake is at its best with loose\soft materials. Hope that helps

 

[leonz]

... for a limerock road in N Central Florida. This road tends to get little depressions, from where tires hit water & spray the water out off the road, & is "wavy" from where the limerock delivery man didn't spread the limerock as he drove, he just dumped it in small piles, & it was never graded out smoothly. Currently I think the guy that grades the road just lets his box blade float along the road, which slightly improves it each time, but leaves a lot to be desired.

Best I can determine it would be a rear grading blade with hydraulic tilt, offset & angle functions, with a hydraulic gauge wheel, such as Land Pride's RBT3584 (7') or RBT3596 (8').

What do you think?

All depends on your pocket book and if its a private road its either fix it or live with it as your sub base is sinking and you have no drainage from the crown of the road if it even exists.



options:

1. pea gravel and blade it reasonably level with a york rake, then rent a vibrating roller to tamp it down. Depending on the length of the road a wlk behind vibrating roller tamper will cost less money to rent.

it would slow down the junior sink holes for a time but you may have a longer interval between repairs



the rest cost more so i wont go into them unless you want them listed.:thumbsup:

 

[jenkinsph]

beppington,

I think you will find it best to have two implements to handle this work, first a good quality rear blade for ditching and building up a crown and second a good quality landplane/grader with long skids for smoothing and planing the surface. I use these two tools the most for jobs such as yours in combination with my tractor and topntilt hydraulics.

This combination of tools along with proper culverts and material should yield good results that will last for long periods. Use the rearblade to pull up spilled material from the edges then plane the surface again to touch it up.

When possible I have the dump truck driver run up and down the drive with last load of gravel still on the truck to pack everything down. A $20 tip does wonders here.

 

[MarkV]

Given that money is not an object I would go for a Harley rake.

MarkV

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I pretty much agree with what Steve (jenkinsph) has said. I happen to have the 4 most common implements that seem to be used on roads by TBNers.

Box blade, landscape rake, rear blade and road grader type blade (land plane)

While each of these implements has a specific purpose and in general work for maintaining a road, some are better than others in my opinion. The Land Pride RBT3584 that you mentioned would be an excellent choice, especially with the hydraulics. I happen to have a Land Pride RBT45108 with hydraulics for offset and angle and skid shoes instead of the gauge wheels. These blades will work wonders building a road. If you get reeeal good with one you wouldn't need anything else, but it can take 100's of hours of use to get that good and many never can quite get there.

Usually after most of the rough work is done, that is when the land plane grader type blades come into use. These grader blades work miracles with the ground. After a few passes the high and low areas will be gone and the road can be about as good as it can get.

Box blades are great for when you need to move large amounts of dirt and can be used to build and maintain a road too. Just not as easy or efficient in my opinion.

Land scape rakes can be used as well, mainly for light touch up in my opinion though.

One last thing, remember that weight is your friend when it comes to grading, if you get a road grader type blade, try to get a 6-7 footer that is 800-1000lbs.

Good luck

 

[sandman2234]

I used a boxblade with fair results, then built a two bladed grader and the results were amazing compared to the boxblade. However, weight makes a lot of difference, and I went extra heavy with the grader, so that was a part of the diference. I still cannot do the ditches, but the Davagrader does a great job of making the road smooth. Probably too heavy for your 40hp tractor or I might consider letting you give it a test run since we are so close, but it is all my 2555 wants when it gets full of dirt.
David from jax

 

[hawkeye08]

I saw this in another thread, nice video by everythingattachments

Tractor Land Plane - Tractor Land Leveler - 3 point Hitch

Scroll down and watch video.

 

[Egon]

Chances are real good this type of machine would even allow for making a Ditch.:thumbsup:

 

[Gordon Gould]

beppington,

I think you will find it best to have two implements to handle this work, first a good quality rear blade for ditching and building up a crown and second a good quality landplane/grader with long skids for smoothing and planing the surface. I use these two tools the most for jobs such as yours in combination with my tractor and topntilt hydraulics.

This combination of tools along with proper culverts and material should yield good results that will last for long periods. Use the rearblade to pull up spilled material from the edges then plane the surface again to touch it up.

When possible I have the dump truck driver run up and down the drive with last load of gravel still on the truck to pack everything down. A $20 tip does wonders here.

This would be my advise also - Rear Blade and Landplain/grader.

 

[beppington]

Chances are real good this type of machine would even allow for making a Ditch.:thumbsup:

Woe, now we're talkin'! What is that? Who makes it? How much is it? That looks to be perfect.