/ Best Chainsaw Sharpener under $300 #71
My point was that when using the Timberline sharpener it is not necessary to hold the saw and bar stationary. You can just set it on a workbench or stump. If the saw moves during use, it will not affect the Timberline’s accuracy.It is necessary to hold the saw and bar stationary. Has nothing to do with the sharpener at all. I'll use it when hand filing in the field as well. You don't want the saw moving around.
I just barely touch with the grinding wheel. I don't see where that is any different than filing to just enough to be sharp.My issue with ALL chain grinders is. they remove too much of the tooth which is ok if the tooth is really dull or chipped but for touching up a chain that isn't buggered up, filing is the only way to go.
Being inherently cheap, I don't need to grind away excessive amounts of tooth if not needed. Besides, learning how to file a chain properly is a good skill to learn. Kind of similar to off hand sharpening twist drills or TIG welding.
I just set my grinder at 90° and leave the chain loose in the clamp, quickly take care of those rakes. I like one handed self feed cutting. If I take the rakes down, I can't push down on the saw because it will choke down. I just lay it on the wood and let gravity do the rest.Fair statement but still easier to hand file and with any 'grinder' you still have to hand file the rakers, something that a lot of owners overlook. Don't care for them simply because it's easier and quicker to dress a chain on the bar versus removing it and grinding., not that, that is all bad because it gives you a chance to inspect the rails for galling and clean the oil groove and flip the bar if necessary. My rule of thumb is I flip the bar every time I renew the loop and I inspect the drive sprocket at the same time.
Been using chainsaws forever. Still own and use a Stihl 028WB I bought in the early 60's Stihl only made the saw for 2 years. It's an RPM saw and it's loud. Has the heated stirrup on it and no chain brake either. Back then, Stihl had not succumbed to the 'noise police' like today and the saw is all alloy except for the top shroud instead of the plastic of today (like my MS saw). I own an 075 from that era as well but hardly ever use it. Has a 5 foot bar on it with 404 square tooth skip tooth chain. No grinding on that chain, hand setting only and you better use the CR or you'll leave your fingers on the recoil. Tend to run Carleton roller nose bars with replaceable noses and greaseable bearings too. I'm decidedly old school because I AM OLD.
In the hands of a skilled operator, a grinder does a good job, and is not necessarily wasteful of chain life. In the hands of someone without much experience, or who just does not care (i.e. the typical hardware store flunky who probably had all of 15 minutes of training), it's a great way of doing a lot of damage quickly and either eating up chain life or overheating the cutters.I just barely touch with the grinding wheel. I don't see where that is any different than filing to just enough to be sharp.
I remember the first time I saw a chain sharpener. My brother and I ran a couple of pulpwood trucks with cable loaders back then. We was at the saw shop and they'd just got one and was sharpening chains. When we got back to the woods, realized his help had just sharpened only one side. So, I know what you're saying.In the hands of a skilled operator, a grinder does a good job, and is not necessarily wasteful of chain life. In the hands of someone without much experience, or who just does not care (i.e. the typical hardware store flunky who probably had all of 15 minutes of training), it's a great way of doing a lot of damage quickly and either eating up chain life or overheating the cutters.