Beaver loader

[brnt]

I am in the process of putting a loader on my Beaver and have run into a road block. The guy at surplus center tells me that I have to have a return line to the tank in order to use the valve that I am thinking about using. Where does the return line go? The tank is the transmission case. I have manufactured the block that bolts on the pressure line at the transmission case and have the fittings in it to run pressure to the loader valve and back to the transmission to run the three point lift cyl. in the transmission. I was planning on using a power beyond set up but where would the return line go? All of the pictures I have seen only show two lines. One going to the loader valve and one coming back to the block. I am lost here. If anyone has any insight on how to plumb this up I sure would appreciate the information.

Thanks..

 

[SSdoxie]

When you use Power Beyond sleeve the vlave requires another drain line to tank. The normal drain line is now supply oil to a valve down stream (3 pt). From teh tank fitting port (should be marked T) on the valve run it back to transmission case, possibly use the fill port or could Tee it into the inlet of the hydraulic gear pump if that has external plumbing.

 

[techwrtr2]

Check this thread, the OP posted up about his resolution which closely mimics the system used by my Blackhawk loader.

While it's not super clear, this picture shows how it was done.

 

[brnt]

Thanks, I'll see if maybe the fill port can be tapped and a fitting installed.

 

[brnt]

I have that setup on the tractor but the valve guy tells me I need an additional line back to the tank. I will look at the fill port and see if maybe it can be tapped and a fitting installed.
Thanks..

 

[techwrtr2]

Appears I didn't actually link to this thread earlier. You can clearly see what is required in order to attach your plumbing. There are two ports there, one in and one out but you need the block to do it right.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/mitsubishi-satoh/229354-angry-beaver-project-fel-build.html

I use it not only to run the loader, but also this:

 

[Coldwater]

we do a lot of loaders on beavers. it just in and out. cut the small line go in loader valve and out.go back to the line you cut that go back the the 3pt.

 

[brnt]

I tapped the fill hole for the transmission and installed a fitting for the return line from the valve. I'm going to change the transmission oil today and install the bucket. Had to swith a couple of lines around and need to reposition some but it is about ready to go. If you just cut the pressure line aren't you running system pressure through the return? I wasn't sure if that would work for long so I went the power beyond route. The block I made does the same thing only you don't have to cut the line, it just routes the fluid to the loader valve first and then back to the 3 pt. I'll try and post a picture later. Thanks.

 

[brnt]

I finally got some pictures of the loader. Now if I can figure out how to put them on here.

 

[caferacermike]

BRNT, nice job.

I recently picked up an S370 for myself, it appears we have the same tractor. I'm hesitant to put a FEL on mine as I'm worried the little axles up front might snap and then I'd be up that infamous creek without said paddle. Any comments about how it works, how it feels, and how strong the tractor is with the FEL? Could you post the cost for the entire build? What brand of FEL did you start with and what parts did you have to make? I'll apologize if there is another thread alluding to all of this, and if there is, you can just point me to it.

 

[brnt]

I have seen pictures of several of them with loaders on them. If I were using it every day I might worry about the axels but most of the time it will sit in the garage. It is kind of like four wheel drive. You don't need it very often but when you do there is no substitute. I have about $1500 tied up in the build. It works really well. I cleaned the barn out about a month ago and it worked great. Sure beats a shovel and wheel barrow. The loader was a Johnson. I'm not sure what it was suppose to fit. I had to mgf. the front mounts and the block for the hydraulics. I also had all of the lines manufactured. After I got it mounted up I discovered that the uprights were to far back on the frame so I had to cut them off and move them forward after welding in some new bracing for them to sit on. I also made a brace to go from the uprights to the front of the tractor to add some stability and keep the uprights from trying to work back and forth. You don't want to try and pick a load up very high without some sort of ballast on the back. I was moving some gravel today and nearly tipped it over. I had taken the disc off and didn't put the grader box back on. I may have to make a ballast box in the future. I hope this has helped you out.

 

[techwrtr2]

We've had a loader on our S370 for most of the 30+ years we've owned it. As yet, I've not broken anything in the driveline. I have cracked the frame several times, but never broken axles etc. It helps that I have a backhoe on it for ballast of course. Even so, it's only recently that I began running it in 2wd unless I needed 4wd. Around the property where I'm either on dirt or gravel I've traditionally kept it in 4wd all of the time. Still haven't managed to break anything. But the frame of course.

 

[brnt]

A backhoe would be great. That may be a future project. Hopefully I won't be cracking the frame.

 

[techwrtr2]

I don't recommend breaking the frame. Last time I did I ended up using a ratchet binder to hold it together long enough to load on trailer and transport home. Kind of embarrassing.

 

[modifyit]

We've had a loader on our S370 for most of the 30+ years we've owned it. As yet, I've not broken anything in the driveline. I have cracked the frame several times, but never broken axles etc. It helps that I have a backhoe on it for ballast of course. Even so, it's only recently that I began running it in 2wd unless I needed 4wd. Around the property where I'm either on dirt or gravel I've traditionally kept it in 4wd all of the time. Still haven't managed to break anything. But the frame of course.

Since you mentioned you had cracked the frame several times, I was wondering where the weak point is in the frame? I am slowly building a loader for my Beaver and this might be good information to have to prevent similar problems with my setup. My Beaver is 2 wheel drive, so I don't know if there is much difference between the 2X2 and 4X4 as far as the "frame" is concerned.

 

[TCJatko]

BRNT, nice job.

I recently picked up an S370 for myself, it appears we have the same tractor. I'm hesitant to put a FEL on mine as I'm worried the little axles up front might snap and then I'd be up that infamous creek without said paddle. Any comments about how it works, how it feels, and how strong the tractor is with the FEL? Could you post the cost for the entire build? What brand of FEL did you start with and what parts did you have to make? I'll apologize if there is another thread alluding to all of this, and if there is, you can just point me to it.

If you look at the link techwrtr2 provided, another TBNer has a similar machine and has fabricated a fine looking loader for it. He seems to work his machine hard with no ill effect.

 

[modifyit]

If you look at the link techwrtr2 provided, another TBNer has a similar machine and has fabricated a fine looking loader for it. He seems to work his machine hard with no ill effect.

I've been following that link, but he doesn't have 30 years on it so far. Just wondering where the weak points are, hoping to make sure my setup doesn't place any more stress on that area than necessary. I suppose with a backhoe added or some overly heavy counterweights on the back, it could compound the problem.

 

[Coldwater]

new loader new for beaver are $1800 and small for small tractor backhoe are $2700 + shipping

 

[techwrtr2]

Since you mentioned you had cracked the frame several times, I was wondering where the weak point is in the frame? I am slowly building a loader for my Beaver and this might be good information to have to prevent similar problems with my setup. My Beaver is 2 wheel drive, so I don't know if there is much difference between the 2X2 and 4X4 as far as the "frame" is concerned.

If you look at this picture you can see a white arm bolted to the frame where there are 4 bolts. I cracked both sides at different times right where that forward pair of bolts is. If you look just above them you can see where I welded it. I plated both sides after the last experience. Haven't had a problem since but I don't use it as hard as I once did.

 

[modifyit]

If you look at this picture you can see a white arm bolted to the frame where there are 4 bolts. I cracked both sides at different times right where that forward pair of bolts is. If you look just above them you can see where I welded it. I plated both sides after the last experience. Haven't had a problem since but I don't use it as hard as I once did.

Thanks for the reply. I will never work this thing the way you apparently work yours, so I should be OK with what I plan to do. I have manufactured fillers from 2 X 3 rectangular tubing which will fit into that channel/frame member and extend the full length of the channel. The assembly at the front that anchors the support for the uprights will bolt onto the front channel and the frame members. Where the filler bolts up to the frame and the front support assembly, I have placed spacers inside the rectangular tubing to maintain good torque on all those bolts. Perhaps one day soon I can bring this project to some kind of conclusion.