I agree with the suggestion to run pump off tractor battery and if battery doesn't maintain full charge something is wrong with battery,alternator or pump.
Well, a 17A new load is not trivial.
Not sure why the OP didn't start with powering the pump off the tractor. Or perhaps a pump driven by the PTO?
The common mistake being repeated here is in believing electrical power is sourced from the battery. The battery is nothing but a buffer of electrical power, storage primarily for starting the engine but once running the battery helps average the voltage available to electrical consumers such as the ignition, lights, fuel pump, radio.
An ammeter would be most desirable but likely one is not fitted and if you didn't know you needed one it is not something we should undertake here. A very low resistor is needed in the ground lead from the battery. And a very sensitive voltmeter across that resistor.
Lacking an ammeter, a volt meter can provide a secondary indication of what is happening. Under power the "battery" voltage should be between 13.8 and 14.9v. Add the water pump and see what happens. If it doesn't drop below 12.6 then you have no trouble, the alternator is good enough. Fully charged lead-acid battery under reasonable load will drop to 12.6v. Could let it go lower for short periods so long as the tractor is running to charge it.
As mentioned earlier your tractor is most likely fitted with an automotive battery. These are not designed for regular discharge below 50%. Don't even like 50%. They are designed for short bursts of high current to drive the starter motor.
Deep cycle lead acid batteries are designed for more frequent discharges below 50% but commodity box store batteries can't do much more than 100 cycles without showing significant degradation.
For serious regular power cycles lithium is the lowest cost per kWh over the life of the battery. But I'm guessing $500 to $1000 for your application. 200Ah is not enough for 204W for 8 hours.
If your alternator doesn't have sufficient power then the cheapest alternative would be to shop for alternator upgrades. Lots of good inexpensive high power automotive alternators exist but I have no idea what mechanically fits your tractor. Electrically it is simple as a nail, modern excited field alternators have an voltage regulator. Basically hook up battery and ground and away you go. There is no concern about the alternator being oversized because the mechanical power drawn from the engine via belt is proportional to the amount of electrical power asked of the alternator.