Battery issues

[kenmac]

Today while running the disc for a food plot my battery suddenly exploded ! This is the second time I've had a battery explode in this yanmar.
Anyone else had the issue with exploding batteries ?

 

[HoyeTractor]

I've never had a battery actually explode but I know from experience that a defective voltage regulator can overcharge a battery and make lots of nasty eye-watering fumes. From what I understand those fumes contain hydrogen and are very explosive if they are able to pool somewhere.

 

[kenmac]

Had it happen a couple yrs ago and today.
I had just turned the tractor off to let my son take over. As soon as he turned to start, BOOM ! The look on his face was priceless ! LOL
Dad what was that ? I said well, considering the top of the battery is laying on the ground under the tractor,and fluid is leaking everywhere. I would say the battery exploded !

I'll check the output after getting a new battery tomorrow

 

[Indirocz28]

Dang that stinks! When I was younger my buddy and I had just closed the hood on his Mustang and stepped inside the garage to have a drink and a sit, when all of a sudden his battery exploded as well. It ruined the paint inside and outside of the engine bay quite quickly.

I chocked it up to either a faulty regulator, or the oddity/possibility that it had something to do with the exhaust guy not disconnecting the battery when he was welding on it just a bit before we brought it back to the house.

 

[flyerdan]

Definitely sounds like an overcharge issue, especially if it's happened before. Hose the whole area down and douse it with baking soda, if you haven't already to kill the acid.
I just fixed that issue on my pickup (before any battery explosions), as numerous voltage regulators would still give me up to 18 volts at the battery. Turns out a corroded connector wasn't allowing battery sense voltage to the regulator; put a wire splice in to bypass the connector and am getting proper charge voltage now.

 

[clemsonfor]

Uep if over charged a battery produces hydrogen sulfide that is very explosive.

Dagerous stuff, figure it out, dont want to be near one that blows.

 

[PILOON]

That's nothing, I had a buddy that had the battery explode in his small private plane just after the got airborne.
The main damage was to his shorts!
For him flying was never the same again.

 

[TX mower]

.....I'll check the output after getting a new battery tomorrow

Just FYI, the old-tech mechanical contact VR's can sometimes 'go erratic' .... showing 'good' output for awhile then 'whacky' for awhile, and back again. Even if it 'tests good' I'd pull the cover and inspect for signs of worn/burned contacts, corrosion, etc and R&R if the visible evidence indicates.

Yes, a battery generates explosive gasses. An ignition source is required to ignite, often an arc at loose terminal connection when hit with the heavy starter load (the vented gasses ignite externally and that runs to the gasses in the confined battery headspace = battery explosion). Another reason to ensure that post connectors are always good-n-tight.

More unsolicited FYI ....

The solid state VR sold by Hoye is definitely a quick and easy and modern-tech (long lived) replacement.

The mechanical VR can still be found by google searching the (likely Hitachi) PN on your defunct VR (~$20 vs ~$70).

IF for whatever reason you need/want to replace both the alternator and the VR, it's very easy to install an Internally Regulated (solid-state) Hitachi 35A alternator to do the job of both (eliminate the external VR completely) for ~$50 (or less with a widely available RockAuto discount code). That assuming your 3110D / 3T84 uses the same alternator as the 336D / 3T84A-N. Let me know if you'd like the details on that swap/upgrade.

 

[kenmac]

Just FYI, the old-tech mechanical contact VR's can sometimes 'go erratic' .... showing 'good' output for awhile then 'whacky' for awhile, and back again. Even if it 'tests good' I'd pull the cover and inspect for signs of worn/burned contacts, corrosion, etc and R&R if the visible evidence indicates.

Yes, a battery generates explosive gasses. An ignition source is required to ignite, often an arc at loose terminal connection when hit with the heavy starter load (the vented gasses ignite externally and that runs to the gasses in the confined battery headspace = battery explosion). Another reason to ensure that post connectors are always good-n-tight.

More unsolicited FYI ....

The solid state VR sold by Hoye is definitely a quick and easy and modern-tech (long lived) replacement.

The mechanical VR can still be found by google searching the (likely Hitachi) PN on your defunct VR (~$20 vs ~$70).

IF for whatever reason you need/want to replace both the alternator and the VR, it's very easy to install an Internally Regulated (solid-state) Hitachi 35A alternator to do the job of both (eliminate the external VR completely) for ~$50 (or less with a widely available RockAuto discount code). That assuming your 3110D / 3T84 uses the same alternator as the 336D / 3T84A-N. Let me know if you'd like the details on that swap/upgrade.

thanks, If you wouldn't mind, pm me the changing over /wiring details ?
Would be great to have if I decide to change to an alternator system.

I just replaced the battery and checked the readings . Got out put of 16.50 volts output @2500 rpm's
I'll have to check my manual after while to see if that is within range, or if the output is too high

 

[duanew1]

It seems high to me. I would not expect to see anything over 14.5 volts while charging.

 

[careyo63]

I have both Reg. Old style and New and get the same reading. 14.25 @2000rpm's............

 

[clemsonfor]

thanks, If you wouldn't mind, pm me the changing over /wiring details ?
Would be great to have if I decide to change to an alternator system.

I just replaced the battery and checked the readings . Got out put of 16.50 volts output @2500 rpm's
I'll have to check my manual after while to see if that is within range, or if the output is too high

Just my shade tree mind here and what I know about batteries, that's too high!! You don't want to take a 12v to 15v really that's where you want to finish up on a charge, not above it potentially for hours!!

 

[HoyeTractor]

Just my shade tree mind here and what I know about batteries, that's too high!! You don't want to take a 12v to 15v really that's where you want to finish up on a charge, not above it potentially for hours!

I agree

 

[TX mower]

thanks, If you wouldn't mind, pm me the changing over /wiring details ?
Would be great to have if I decide to change to an alternator system....

I'm trapped inside and 'cabin happy' due to cold rain falling .... so made a post with the details, please see Internal Regulated Alternator Conversion

 

[clemsonfor]

At 16.5v your boiling that battery pretty good. I DO KNOW that!!

 

[kenmac]

I'm trapped inside and 'cabin happy' due to cold rain falling .... so made a post with the details, please see Internal Regulated Alternator Conversion

Thanks ! I'm gonna order that alternator. When it gets here ,I'm gonna try to wire it up using these diagrams.
I'm not at my tractor. I assume this T connector on the back of the new alt. is already being used on the OEM unit, so I won't have to come up with this connector. Is this correct ?

 

[clemsonfor]

Thanks ! I'm gonna order that alternator. When it gets here ,I'm gonna try to wire it up using these diagrams.
I'm not at my tractor. I assume this T connector on the back of the new alt. is already being used on the OEM unit, so I won't have to come up with this connector. Is this correct ?

They sell connectors like that. I believe I saw them at rock auto once in the general parts category under generic parts and serving conectors. I was looking for something else and saw them. But it could of been a different site?

 

[TX mower]

Thanks ! I'm gonna order that alternator. When it gets here ,I'm gonna try to wire it up using these diagrams.
I'm not at my tractor. I assume this T connector on the back of the new alt. is already being used on the OEM unit, so I won't have to come up with this connector. Is this correct ?

Replied in the other thread, yes your OEM harness already has the "T" connector, but FYI for folks needing to replace the "T" connector on their harness at their alternator, this Female 2-terminal connector available from Hoye will fit and do the trick (Hoye PN HWE-2-F).

OR, look for a correct connector with pigtail at many auto-parts stores.

OR, you can just use standard 1/4" female spade crimp connectors individually on each wire with appropriate shrink-insulation to prevent shorting to the alternator case.

 

[kenmac]

Removed the VR today and found what appears to be a small resistor ? broken /burn off.

I called Alan (TX mower )and we discussed the wiring diagrams he posted. A BIG THANK YOU to Alan for the help !!:thumbsup:
Great talking with you today.

My new alternator should be here Friday. I'll post back as to how it works out

 

[clemsonfor]

Good to hear others helping others. I am not sure what I will do if when one of mine go out....I probably will go back like it is? But if/when that happens I'll decide.