Battery For 425 (Kohler)

[Carpenter]

I have the older model 425 with the Kohler and it's time to change the battery again. The last one I got I had to force into position after removing the muffler; getting it out again was a nightmare. I don't know if battery sizes have changed over time or what. Has anyone found a battery that will go in and out easier? I could go with a shorter and wider battery but that puts it farther under the muffler. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[ponytug]

FYI:
List of Common Battery Case Sizes | BCI Group Numbers
I'd go through the list trying for the dimensions that you want in a CCA level that is consistent with what you have.

All the best,

Peter

 

[Carpenter]

Thanks, Peter. I had already looked at that list and there's only one battery that might work (22NF) and I can't find one locally and don't want to spend $200 on a battery. I found a smaller battery that's not on the list at Les Schwab today; it has less cranking power so we'll see how it works this winter.

 

[BobRip]

Thanks, Peter. I had already looked at that list and there's only one battery that might work (22NF) and I can't find one locally and don't want to spend $200 on a battery. I found a smaller battery that's not on the list at Les Schwab today; it has less cranking power so we'll see how it works this winter.

It may work this winter OK, but will it work the following. If possible I try to go up a little. As the tractor ages connections are a little poorer and it's may take more cranking power. Of course the engine is broken in and that may help.

 

[ponytug]

I'm with BobRip; I think it is unlikely that a smaller battery will work better for you. I tend to size my batteries up rather than down, subject to price because there is always that cold day, when the oil is thicker than molasses... Of course, I admit that I also upsized my ground and battery cables, since I really don't like to hear some poor engine turning over, and over, and over....

All the best,

Peter

 

[MossRoad]

Duralast 51-DLG
Sold at Autozone.
2001 PT425 with the Kohler command engine, Kohler muffler in the rear. Hydraulic PTO pumps in rear, tram pump in front of the engine.
500CCA

 

[Carpenter]

MR, That battery says it's 9 3/8" long; the one I just pryed out was 9 1/4". Maybe PT set my engine farther back or something? It's a quirky frustrating machine to work on but still one of the most useful things I've ever purchased. We'll see how the smaller battery works out; I have room in the heated shop so maybe I'll baby the 425 this winter. lol

 

[BobRip]

I'm with BobRip; I think it is unlikely that a smaller battery will work better for you. I tend to size my batteries up rather than down, subject to price because there is always that cold day, when the oil is thicker than molasses... Of course, I admit that I also upsized my ground and battery cables, since I really don't like to hear some poor engine turning over, and over, and over....

All the best,

Peter

Peter I came vey close to upsizing the cables. I measured the voltage drop across each cable and it was about 0.1 volts. This did not seem like much. Your comments would be appreciated. I have worked on products where a small change in conductor size made a huge difference.

 

[MossRoad]

MR, That battery says it's 9 3/8" long; the one I just pryed out was 9 1/4". Maybe PT set my engine farther back or something? It's a quirky frustrating machine to work on but still one of the most useful things I've ever purchased. We'll see how the smaller battery works out; I have room in the heated shop so maybe I'll baby the 425 this winter. lol

My original battery went about 6 years. I replaced it with that one I mentioned. About 5 yeras later, that one went out and I replaced it again with that same one I mentioned. It isn't easy getting it in our out, but it fits in mine. Maybe take a tape measure of yours and take a tape to the replacement in the store and see if it really is what they say it is? Sometimes they are a little off. Sometimes Power Trac is a little off, too! :laughing:

 

[Marks481]

Peter I came vey close to upsizing the cables. I measured the voltage drop across each cable and it was about 0.1 volts. This did not seem like much..

was that the voltage drop across the cable while cranking the engine?

 

[BobRip]

was that the voltage drop across the cable while cranking the engine?

Yes. I used the min/max feature on the meter.

 

[ponytug]

I love your attention to detail!
Thanks for sharing.

All the best,

Peter

Yes. I used the min/max feature on the meter.

 

[BobRip]

I love your attention to detail!
Thanks for sharing.

All the best,

Peter

I bought some 2 guage wire and clamps to replace the 4 guage cables. I am soldering them together and will let you know how it works.

 

[BobRip]

I have the new cables in. The voltage drop is about the same but, when I turn the key it starts almost instantly. It has ben run for a total of less than a minute today so it is slightly warmed up. I will report again after more testing.

 

[ponytug]

Thanks for the change in gauge update.

For me, going from 4 to a 0 gauge made a noticeable difference for my 1445 as well, but I didn't check the voltage drop, because I knew that my DVM wouldn't measure it accurately.

In my limited experience getting really accurate peak/min/max measurement often depends on rather expensive equipment. Or put differently, a peak in rush current might be so short that it is subject to a certain amount of round off error by low speed, lower digitization rate meters. No criticism of your DVM implied, just a comment on how hard it can be to get these measurements accurately.

All the best,

Peter

 

[BobRip]

Thanks for the change in gauge update.

For me, going from 4 to a 0 gauge made a noticeable difference for my 1445 as well, but I didn't check the voltage drop, because I knew that my DVM wouldn't measure it accurately.

In my limited experience getting really accurate peak/min/max measurement often depends on rather expensive equipment. Or put differently, a peak in rush current might be so short that it is subject to a certain amount of round off error by low speed, lower digitization rate meters. No criticism of your DVM implied, just a comment on how hard it can be to get these measurements accurately.

All the best,

Peter

I think you are correct. Also the lower resistance wire will make the current be higher. I should have checked the current, but the same errors will apply. The best test at this point is see how it affects starting. I think with the smaller 422 engine 2 gauge was enough. It was difficult enough to bend.

 

[woodlandfarms]

So I'm sorry, but why did you build cables? Couldn't you buy them from napa?

 

[BobRip]

So I'm sorry, but why did you build cables? Couldn't you buy them from napa?

Advanced Auto Parts is my nearest store. They did not have what I wanted. It was not that hard and I used brass connectors and soldered everything. The resistance should be a little lower this way.

 

[ponytug]

Plus, two smaller cables are easier to route and bend compared to one large one.

All the best,

Peter

Advanced Auto Parts is my nearest store. They did not have what I wanted. It was not that hard and I used brass connectors and soldered everything. The resistance should be a little lower this way.

 

[BobRip]

Plus, two smaller cables are easier to route and bend compared to one large one.

All the best,

Peter

I replaced both ground and hot wires to the battery in case that was not clear. Each is only one piece. I did not tie the ground directly to the starter.
I used it a bunch today and cannot say if started better. I have found that it starts easier when cold if the throttle is set to idle. That seems strange to me.