Basement Insulation?? Advice??

[LD1]

Metal studs is about 2x's the cost of wood. So I dont see that happening.
/QUOTE]

At least use the metal railing with wooden studs. Makes it a lot easier.:thumbsup:

By railing, do you mean along the bottom attached to the floor???

I dont see how it is any easier than shooting a toe-nail with a nail gun to attach a wood stud to a wood (PT) baseplate?

I'll admit, I have never used the metal. What makes them easier/better?

 

[bp fick]

Again, if you use a 2x3 and hold off the wall a 1/2 inch, which is normal because of wall irregularities, you have good, full 3" cavity for the R-11. The R-11 fills that cavity nicely, with no back pressure on the drywall or panelling.

R-13 just flat-out seems thicker and wouldn't be ideal to use with 2x3. When using R-13, I'd use 2x4.

 

[GGB]

I'm in the process of building out most of the remaining part of the basement that wasn't already finished when we bought this home. I'm doing most of the work myself, because I enjoy it and will save money, too.

When I was researching this subject, I came to the decision that using a skim coat of closed cell foam on the sill and batt insulation for the stud wall would be the best way to go. From what I read, you really only needed to seal the surface to see good results. I know I have a fair amount of air infiltration at the sill, so getting it sealed would really help. Then I was going to go with batt insulation between the studs.

When I was talking to my electrician about the electrical work I'll have him do, he referred me to an insulation contractor who could do any type of insulation including spray foam. I really didn't think I'd want to hire someone to do that part of the job, because I assumed it would be way high. I was pleasantly suprised to find that it would be no more expensive than me doing it myself, and it realistically would be done better than I could do. I was leary about the do-it-yourself foam kits, and to do the walls would really start getting expensive. By the way, the insulation contractor's bid was for a cllosed cell skim coat for the sill and walls, and cellulose to fill the stud cavity.

Do your own research, but if you have any air infiltration at the sill, a skim coat of foam should be worth the cost, especially as utility costs keep going up. Good luck!

 

[bucktaker]

I finished my basement recently...been in the house 15 yrs so I knew water wasnt an issue (till we overfilled the jacuzzi tub :confused2

Any way I used 2x4 studs regular baseplates with foam sill strip under it.
R13 insulation kraft side to the interior, no real planned air gap but concrete wall wasnt straight so go some. also insulated basement ceiling with r13 batts. Walls were 8'6" drywall Ceiling drywall. Added vent free fireplace and its a toasty place now. Floors... laminate planks in bar/game area, carpet with pad in tv/bedroom , tile in the bathroom...Tile floor is freezing cold ..

Loved the project

 

[tractchores]

What do you do "IF" you ever get a leak/flood?? I mentioned in another thread that I did used to work for a company that did basement restoration after flooding/water back-ups. And never seen anything like it. All I know is that if the carpet had pad, we had (mandated by the insurance companies) to yank up the carpet and toss the pad. And then the homeowner had to have the carpet re-installed. But with NO pad as I am planning, it was as simple as sucking the water out and drying it with blowers and de-humidifiers. MUCH cheaper and simpler than w/pad.

I'd imaging with a sub-flooring, in the event of water damage, the carpet would have to be removed, subfloor dried, and then carpet re-installed.

Here is a link to the subfloor I used
It looks like the price has gone up quite a bit. It won't help if you get a serious flood, but if you get like 1/2" of water then it protects the carpet from getting wet and won't get wet itself. If you get a lot more then you're back to a more serious cleanup (sadly I've had both scenarios in this particular basement!).

 

[jwalk2c]

I was actually planning on using treated for the studs too. They are a few pennies cheaper than non-treated....go figure.

But then the issue of the lumber will probabally eat the drywall screws:confused2:

Either way, I will definatally use treated anywhere it as to touch concrete:thumbsup:

How much "air-gap" did you leave between the stud wall and the block foundation?

When I finished my basement I used treated 2x4's for the studs and that was a huge mistake. They bowed and twisted when they dried out. Luckily that was before I hung the drywall and I was able to put 2 purloins between each stud and straighten them. But that was so much more work that could have been avoided .And the horizontal purloins makes it more difficult to run electrical. Also as treated lumbar dries out it is not as easy to nail.
Does not sound like a big deal but wait to you get into a tight spot trying to nail up an electrical fixture box or framing a door or window opening?
Treated lumber is great for the base plate or sill but not for studs IMHO.
But whatever you choose you will appreciate wood studded walls. I was concerned about losing the floor space but you want miss it.
Studded walls allow you to correct any out of plumb block wall irregularity, electrical will be much easier; you will have studs to hang pictures and shelves etc.
Johnny Walker

 

[Egon]

In some places treated lumber is not allowed for indoor use.

 

[ttriff]

This is the technique I used.

Basement Insulation - How To Insulate Basement Walls

 

[Luremaker]

This is the technique I used.

Basement Insulation - How To Insulate Basement Walls

I like that method the best.

 

[LD1]

I like that method the best.

If money were no object, that would be the method I would choose.

But that sheet insulation aint cheap. And that is exactally what I dont want to put up. But pretty much just like they did, only without the sheet insulation.

And so far, it seems many on here have done it without the sheet insulation. Just fiberglass. So I think that is going to be the plan of attack.

 

[radioman]

since you are still in planning stages, have you called any foam spray companies with size of room you want to do? its the best way t insulate and you can spray directly on walls for better effect and go with whatever stud size you want. for walls.

 

[forgeblast]

I have seen that 2x2 flooring the price did go up on it. What about putting a 2x4 every 16'' and using the thicker sheet insulation to fill in between, and then use 3/4 plywood on top. that would get you off the ground? A buddy of mine was thinking about doing his basement that way.

 

[LD1]

since you are still in planning stages, have you called any foam spray companies with size of room you want to do? its the best way t insulate and you can spray directly on walls for better effect and go with whatever stud size you want. for walls.

I havent called about "this" project.

But dad is in the planning stages of a house build and has called, and I guy I work with has also called about it for a garage, and it is in the $1/sq/ft range.

I know it is superior, and they handle the install, but....the cost. I have ~1600 of wall. It will only take $300 of fiberglass vs $1600 of sprayfoam.

If I ever build a new house though, I think I will do spray foam though

 

[Luremaker]

I believe the code round here is fiberglass, roxul, blown cellulose etc can not make direct contact with concrete below grade. Your should run a barrier like 6mil plastic, Tyvek, or roofing felt behind your studs from grade to the floor underneath the wall plate. This will prevent moisture from condensing on the concrete wall. Wet insulation is not good.

 

[cougar21300]

My barn has 12' walls and the first 4' (6' on the back wall) are concrete. I insulated a few years back by attaching upright 12' studs spaced 2' apart with 1.5" foam board pressure fitted between the studs. I easily secured the studs to the concrete with paired 30 penny galvanised nails as per a technique shown on askthebuilder.com. Basically you drill a hole through both the stud and into the concrete with a long 5/16 hammerdrill, and then pound in the paired foundation nails together with a 2 pound hammer. I tried pulling the first stud back off with a 4' prybar and the board broke! Then I had to break the nails off to get rid off them! Since then I've drywalled the whole area with 5/8 fireproofing drywall. A side benefit to the foam board/stud technique is that the drywall has a solid backing

 

[Five Star Foam]

We have been in the spray foam insulation business for many years. It was a hard business to get started in because people doubted the safety and value of the product.. Many people thought the product would trap water and cause health issues. The fact is there are many benefits to spray foam insulation.

1.)Iit is a moisture and air barrier in one.. Doing the job of 2 products. Air can not penetrate your home and moisture can not come in getting trapped in the walls and causing mold to form.
2.) Excellent sound barrier
3.) Better air quality- The air is cleaner and less likely to cause allergies
4.) Lower utility bills- I am in the south and we loose 50% of our energy out of the attic. I have done research on basements and the cold air in the winter gets under your house causing it to be colder in the winter time.
5.) lower tonnage for your A?C and heating.

There are many benefits. The initial cost is more, but you will notice a big difference in your comfort and utility bills.

I would suggest visiting RESNET to read more about energy.

Green building is big in Dallas and a lot of the cities require builders to be Energy Star Certified. It doesn't take spray foam insulation to be energy star certified, but it will reduce your utility bills by 50% if you use it. Many of the custom builders are making it a common practice and the tract builders are starting to offer it as an option.

We spray it in commercial buildings, new homes, existing attics, basements, barns, gyms, warehouses, etc.. It can be used on most building applications.

Hope this helps,
Shannon

 

[LD1]

We have been in the spray foam insulation business for many years. It was a hard business to get started in because people doubted the safety and value of the product.. Many people thought the product would trap water and cause health issues. The fact is there are many benefits to spray foam insulation.

1.)Iit is a moisture and air barrier in one.. Doing the job of 2 products. Air can not penetrate your home and moisture can not come in getting trapped in the walls and causing mold to form.
2.) Excellent sound barrier
3.) Better air quality- The air is cleaner and less likely to cause allergies
4.) Lower utility bills- I am in the south and we loose 50% of our energy out of the attic. I have done research on basements and the cold air in the winter gets under your house causing it to be colder in the winter time.
5.) lower tonnage for your A?C and heating.

There are many benefits. The initial cost is more, but you will notice a big difference in your comfort and utility bills.

I would suggest visiting RESNET to read more about energy.

Green building is big in Dallas and a lot of the cities require builders to be Energy Star Certified. It doesn't take spray foam insulation to be energy star certified, but it will reduce your utility bills by 50% if you use it. Many of the custom builders are making it a common practice and the tract builders are starting to offer it as an option.

We spray it in commercial buildings, new homes, existing attics, basements, barns, gyms, warehouses, etc.. It can be used on most building applications.

Hope this helps,
Shannon

Already went with the fiberglass and walls are already up.

Foam was just too $$$.

 

[Obed]

Already went with the fiberglass and walls are already up.

Foam was just too $$$.

Pictures???

 

[LD1]

I didnt take any pics yet. It is just a paneled wall now. I figured that would look kinda dumb just posting a pic of a paneled wall:laughing: Maybe if/when I get it all done (ceiling and carpet) I'll snap a few pics. But that wont be for awhile.

 

[hr3]

Already went with the fiberglass and walls are already up.

Foam was just too $$$.

Pay now or pay later..