Barn Tack Room Ceiling Advice

[ustmd]

Looking for some feedback/advice.

So, the next project on the list is building my wife a new tack room in the barn.

The current space is approx 19 ft (l) x 12 ft (w) and is used for junk storage. My wife wants it enclosed, sheetrocked on all four walls and ceiling as some work done to delay/prevent the varmints from moving in.
Building the stud walls and hanging the sheetrock is no problem, but I am having trouble deciding on how to handle the ceiling. Because the ceiling is not structural (the shell of the barn will carry the roof load), the ceiling rafters only needs to carry the load of the radiant barrier OSB I am putting up (for insulation value and varmint delay) and the sheetrock.

The standard route would be to run regular rafters on the 12 ft width 16" OC, but even though it is only carrying the ceiling weight, I am thinking I would still need to do 2x6 or 2x8 to prevent deflection. Which I could do, but seems overkill. Also, the back wall is barely 8ft high and I would like to maintain as much headroom as possible.

Alternatively, I could run rafters the length of the room (inset between the z-channels), but at 19 ft we are definitely in the 2 x10 range and since the z-channels are only 8" deep, I would have to notch them. Also, my back does not look forward to manhandling 7 or 10 2 x 10 x 20 rafters into position.
I had been considering putting 2 x 4 furring strips running the 12 ft width and attaching them at the bottom of the z-channels (the z-channels are every 5 ft). For this option, I am thinking I would need to use bolts (as opposed to lag screws) and recess the heads in the wood (to create a smooth surface for the osb and sheetrock).

Anyone have any other thoughts or recommendations for which options would work best? I am not proud.
Also, there will be project pictures once I actually get to starting the project.
-TMD

 

[beeforty]

I would be tempted to use self tapping screws and just bury the heads in the flat 2x4's. Then fill that void with more insulation, run conduit for your lights along side the 2x4

 

[dmay]

What about hanging a suspended ceiling 2' x 4' metal grid right off the barn roof and fill the grid with 2' x 4' ceiling tiles?

 

[mojoinco]

Put sheetmetal siding on the ceiling. Mouse proof: install straight sheets, then cut edges to fit the overlaps and the edge details.

Then use a decent grade of plywood (finished one side) on the walls. Did something similar to my wife's tack room (much different arrangement). Wished I had used a better grade of plywood -- used a non-finished grade. Why finished? Looks much better, no splinters, doesn't absorb near the paint of OSB, stronger for the shelving and hooks. We had a wood joist ceiling (covered above) so I left the joists exposed for recessing the lights and spaces for hooks. Didn't catch where you are from, but you may wish to install low temp lighting if in cold country.

Run your outlets in conduit and save yourself the trouble versus the occasional nail/screw that 'someone' will put in it. Much harder to do on exposed conduit. And unlike my original install (before concrete) put your subpanel behind the door (where it opens to) if you have an interior door.

Don't forget the potential for a sink and possible placement (drain is gray water, so the down hill side, simple).

 

[Army grunt]

I go with 2x4 flat ,an perpendicularity to the steal, fason them with carriage bolts( 5/16)24"oc. screw on the top side of 2x4 a second 2x4 making a upside down "T" this will give it plenty of strength. sheet rock, or because its a tack room a wood ceiling made of say "T"111 , the kind that looks like 3" board an baton. (this should be painted before installing to make finishing it off quicker) use 24" insulation.
Army Grunt

 

[Kays Supply]

A second vote for Mojoinco's idea. I did the same think to my shop. I used exterior siding for the walls. It added a design to the walls that way. It has been there 19 years and no problems. You can hit the ceiling and not hurt it. The walls can take a shelf or a nail to hang things anywhere you want.

 

[WM75Guy]

I would rethink the sheetrock. Morton built our barn and used preprimed Smart Panel for the walls and ceiling with 1"X4" trim. Looks and works well, no worries about dings in the sheetrock. This is before painting, the back wall is not complete as the AC guys were still installing the split unit.

 

[nickel plate]

This is my 10'x12'office out in the shop. The rafters are 2x6 16" oc running the 10' direction crown up with 3/8" resawn plywood screwed in place. Walls are 1x8 pine v-rustic and 3/8" resawn plywood painted white. Not the angle brackets in the wall corner as this office is built to be removed (certainly not be me but perhaps the next owner when the time comes) if so desired to make the shop bay a full 32' deep. The existing before the office project overhead light created a challenge as to how to change out the bulbs. The small A/C unit intake draws from the rest of the 1280 sf shop and not from the outside of the building.

 

[QRTRHRS]

I am thinking that you could just attach siding directly to your steel rafters with self tapping screws. Maybe look for the lightest guage steel to minimize weight since it is non structural and out of the weather.

Any tin trim for outside of a barn can readily be used inside. It is very common for pole barns built for commercial applications to go this route.

I too would go with conduit or BX for the wiring. Never know where you might want to be attaching something to the wall and romex and mice don't mix.

 

[WM75Guy]

Conduit or BX is the way to go. Less chance of penetration or damage from critters and looks cleaner.