Bad info in 1538 operators manual.

[JerryK]

On my 2001.5 Dodge diesel, I have a hard time getting a filter wrench underneath and onto the filter so I can loosen it or put it back on. Little or no clearance. But the pain quickly goes away whilst I am going up/down thru the gears when I am driving it. [ with a big grin on my face.. ] [ my new 2555 HST Cab just came in... ]

 

[dickfoster]

Weeeelll.. Actually was both. Didnt see much advancement in this thing

View attachment 472283

So went for something a little bigger

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And yes, it was nice to have constant coffee that you didnt have to walk on the bulkheads to keep from spilling

LOL a firing a duce in that thing would probably tip it over.

 

[dickfoster]

Would you suggest Redline shockproof in the portals on my Mog? Or a combo of synthetic gear lube and shockproof? I need to fix a front seal and swap out the fluids, and I don't mind paying the price for top quality fluids. As for the fluids in the front axles of Mahindra compact tractors, I've not seen a fluid related axle failure on a compact Mahindra, except of course for no fluid....that'll do it. So in a way, you are fixing a problem that does not exist. Having said that, I have no problem using fluids that are over the top good, even if not needed. If you can afford it, why not?

As for Mahindras contradiction in the manuals, I agree, they need to fix those sort of things. But had you gone with either fluid, it would have worked.

As for tight filters and poorly placed service points, it is the nature of the beast when you use one engine in many applications. A filter that is out of the way with your engine on a 3550 might be square up against a loader bracket on a smaller tractor, etc. It would be nice if they could adapt and make things easier, but honestly my techs never complain about tight filters or hard to reach filters. They just get it done with little fanfare. But they do have a variety of different types of oil filter tools. What works great on one is useless on another model.

Try a new $60k Ram diesel. You have little choice but to pull the oil filter and make a big mess or remove the intake air box to gain access. And you have to reach the filter through the wheel well opening. Pretty dumb. And the rear fuel filter? Square over the rear diff/pinion area. Really? Yep. So you learn to drain with a hose and use a certain tool.

Such is life, and it's best not to get too worked up about the little stuff. And any problem that provides an excuse to buy a new tool is a good thing.

That shockproof is some pretty goopy stuff so I don't trust a full diet of it only but I'm sure Redline would disagree. It's not cheap but you probably figured that much out. Because it's so thick and goopy I've been using both, mostly gear lube and just some of the gooey red stuff. It doesn't stay mixed with the gear lube so I count on it only to coat the gears and bearings and provide a film of protection. It's gooey but it's really slick. If you mix the two in a bottle a let it sit it will separate after a bit. However, I've been running this witches brew in my axles with no ill effects for quite a while now. Like I said don't put it in anything with a pump, cooler or filter since it's so think it might tend to plug up the works. I would not put it in a transfer case or tranny, just a differential where the whirring gears and oil slingers will distribute the stuff to keep things nicely coated with protection. The high viscosity is also why I use it in a mix of regular gear lube too. If you try it let me know how it works out for you. Yeah I suspect it would be good in portals too as long as there are no pumps. That is why I'm putting it in my tractor axle since it's a portal axle too. That upper gear looks like it may tend to starve for lube from time to time. How does the saying go, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Since busted gears way out in the boondocks was never much fun for me or anyone in the group, I always try my best not to go there.

Don't you wish some of the knuckleheads who designed this stuff had to work on it. Maybe there is a purgatory or a special place in **** where they have to. LOL

Let me know what you think of my fuel filter post. I hope it'll save someone some grief.

 

[jmh1783]

I used to change the oil in my car and stopped at some point. Some of those oil filters can be tough to get at. Now that I don't do it anymore, I get a car with it it right up front on top with the dipsticks and the windshield washer fluid cap. Amazing. I'm not sure I get why Mahindra doesn't update its documentation. The specs on their website differ from the PDF spec sheets. If you look closely there are also errors on the spec sheets. The 2540 has no fuel tank capacity. The 2538 has a wet disc clutch. I don't remember a clutch pedal on that tractor. The 5555 and the 5570 apparently lose a synchronized shifter over the 5545. The website vs PDF has too many errors to list. All they need is a summer intern and an afternoon to fix it. Maybe I should offer my services.

 

[sd455dan]

On my 2001.5 Dodge diesel, I have a hard time getting a filter wrench underneath and onto the filter so I can loosen it or put it back on. Little or no clearance. But the pain quickly goes away whilst I am going up/down thru the gears when I am driving it. [ with a big grin on my face.. ] [ my new 2555 HST Cab just came in... ]

Congrats on the new tractor :thumbsup:

I change the oil on my 03 Cummins equipped Ram, and my nephews 2012, and It is pretty easy with a lift.
from below using a filter wrench or end cap wrench it's not bad, never removed the front wheel to change the oil filter.

( But the pain quickly goes away whilst I am going up/down thru the gears when I am driving it.)- Couldn't agree more





As to the threads front axle oil question - My Rhino tractor has only had UTF in both axles /drivetrain/hydraulic system for the last 23 years of use, no leaks or damage so far...

do agree that high shock load oils are an advantage in high horse power high shock load applications - also can see how getting bound up in the rocks with a 4x4 can push things past the limit pretty quickly.

 

[dickfoster]

Congrats on the new tractor :thumbsup:

I change the oil on my 03 Cummins equipped Ram, and my nephews 2012, and It is pretty easy with a lift.
from below using a filter wrench or end cap wrench it's not bad, never removed the front wheel to change the oil filter.

( But the pain quickly goes away whilst I am going up/down thru the gears when I am driving it.)- Couldn't agree more





As to the threads front axle oil question - My Rhino tractor has only had UTF in both axles /drivetrain/hydraulic system for the last 23 years of use, no leaks or damage so far...

do agree that high shock load oils are an advantage in high horse power high shock load applications - also can see how getting bound up in the rocks with a 4x4 can push things past the limit pretty quickly.

Well it seems to me that putting the machine into 4WD then using the loader can load up the front gears pretty well so I just finished filling mine with my witches brew or secret gear sauce of 75W90 synthetic gear lube and about a quart of Redline Shockproof. This stuff has a rated service life of 500,000 miles so I think it'll hold up pretty well. More so than UTF would anyway.

Finally something went off without a hitch without unnecessary access problems. I did however find one little niggle to call to the attention of folks doing this for the first time.

The Operator's manual calls out the two 12mm drain plugs on both the hub drives but neglects to mention the 24mm drain plug on the lower front of the center differential housing. However, the service manual does call it out. If you don't remove it and drain the differential, you won't get quite all of the old lube out. Since I was changing lubes I did a complete drain and refill.

I expected the large center drain plug to have a magnet but there was none. Sometime down the road, I may add one.