Backhoe Tree Root Cutter Winter Project

[GoodGuy]

Attached is a picture of a plan I've got to build a tree root cutter attachment that will go on the end of my JD47 Backhoe in place of the bucket. I'm posting this to ask for any feedback or ideas you might share with me. My problem is that I've got quite a few stumps to remove & I struggle getting them out because the roots keep hanging me up, so if I can cut the roots then I'd be able to dig around the stump & get it out of the way quicker as well as not having to beat/pound & smash the hoe as much. If anyone has built a similar cutter as to what I'm proposing to do, I sure would like to know any pros or cons. Guys & Gals, take a look at mt sketch & give me some guidance as to what you think....Thanks, Eric

 

[EddieWalker]

I think you got a good idea, just not a practical one.

If the roots are too big for your bucket to cut, then you just go out a little further until you get to a small enough size you can cut.

Also, removing the dirt around the roots makes them allot easier to cut, since there is no protection for them. I wonder if your cutter will really be able to get through a serious sized root.

If you don't have enough power with your bucket, then I question how you'll get a significant increase in cutting ability with the blade.

Even if it works, you still have to come back and dig it up anyway, which means dealling with the roots all over again.

I like to get it done all at once and move on. It might work, and I'd love to see pictures of it in operation, but I have serious doubts as to how effective it will be and if you save any time using it.

Eddie Walker

 

[mopacman]

I have though about this for a long time. I came up with the idea of putting saw teeth on the cutter. Larry

 

[KiotiJohn]

I have to agree with Eddie, not practical. I understand the desire, I just don't think it will work all that well.
Simply starting your digging out where the roots are not as large, and don't have as much grip usually is all that is necessary. I realize you may not want to have to make such a large dig, but I think it will be just about the same even if you cut them first. Either way, you're going to have to get the rest of the roots out after removing the stump, right? John

 

[txdon]

I also need a root cutter to cut the mesquite roots off or pull out when the ground is moist. My idea is to have a "v" shaped piece of metal that would slide on and attach to the bucket teeth so I would have something to grab hold of the root and I could pull it out or pull it till it broke off. If the "v" is sharp it would cut if it was dull it would pull. Of course the size of the root would be limited but It would save jumping on and off the tractor a bit ....Just a thought .... /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[MarkV]

Eric, when the excavation company was digging to install a septic system at our vacation home they used a very similar design to work through rock ledge. It worked well until we got to the solid granite and then had to go to the jack hammer.

Personally I think it will be more functional than some of the others do. With all the power of the back hoe concentrated on the single tooth rather than spread the width of the bucket it should have better root cutting capabilities. I know when I switch to the smaller 12” bucket on my backhoe it is a better stump digger.

MarkV

 

[rswyan]

Eric,

I have planned to build something similar myself but with all the other projects I currently have going I haven't been able to get to it yet. Couple of thoughts:

1. You might consider scalloping the cutting edge so it's serrated. I think having an irregular edge would improve the cutting ability on roots, although this would take a good bit more work to fabricate .... would probably require a mill to do it right.

2. On the tooth attachment to the pin plate - I'd seriously consider adding a couple of angled, welded gussets that go in from the outside of the 10" plate to the ripper tooth to spread out the forces across the entire pin plate. This would make the tooth less prone to twisting itself off the pin plate (although it might transfer those forces elsewhere ... ie the dipperstick)

3. I also wouldn't make the tip so small and pointed - looks like the tooth where it attaches to the pin plate is about 6" and if the scale is accurate the tooh tip is about an inch - I'd make it 2" or 3" instead - and probably make the other end where it attaches to the pin plate the width of the pin plate (8")

 

[Henro]

GoodGuy,

Like others here I also have thought about doing the exact same thing as you are proposing. I think the idea would work. As a matter of fact I want to believe I saw someone selling something similar somewhere on the web in the past.

The biggest shortcoming though, and the reason I will probably not do this sort of thing, is that it would be too much of a pain to keep swapping the bucket and the knife.

My thinking had progressed in line with Txdon's idea of some kind of attachment that could be added to the bucket when needed, that would be easily removable...never got to the point of thinking out how that might be done though.

In the end I have to cast my vote against the dedicated knife idea. I don't think it would be practical, at least not for me. Mainly because of the time and trouble involved with swapping things.

 

[jmc]

Eric,
I think you ought to build it because it will concentrate all your force on one spot of the root and not the dirt around the root. That said, the sharpened edge will make it advance thru the dirt better but I doubt if it it will be sharp enough to really cut wood too deep. And even if it is very sharp, it won't be for long, especially if you don't harden it. But unless you're working close to the stump, just breaking the root is good enough.

If you really want to cut the root, take mopacman's suggestion of using teeth instead of and edge. Make them cut on the upstroke and the combination of pulling toward you while lifting the ripper should make short work of it. Again, if you're not going to harden it you should use hardened inserts for the teeth, and think about resharpening.

Looking at the blade from the side, I would make it as wide and strong as possible that still will penetrate the ground. Also, the inside curved cutting edge could proabably be straight since you can curl the blade.

That's a great project and we're hoping to see how it works.

John

 

[SteveV]

You might want to take a look at the attached picture on this post. I Love Pine Stumps
SteveV /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif