B8200HST-D, high temperature whistle?

[Egon]

No, that is a different system.

John

Okay. Sorry for being a pain.

 

[varmint]

The temp sensor fitting should go where you think it will- I had installed a mech. temp. gauge on my B8200 around 2003 or so, and I remember the kit ($15 for voltmeter, mech. temp. and mech. oil pressure) had whatever parts I needed to just plumb it in- I recall it was metric, but can't tell you much more than that. I also don't think an affordable pull solenoid will have enough grunt to pull the fuel shutoff- at least mine took some effort. That's why I thought a low pressure electric solenoid to shut off the fuel flow would be the ticket.

 

[Jwedd]

The temp sensor fitting should go where you think it will- I had installed a mech. temp. gauge on my B8200 around 2003 or so, and I remember the kit ($15 for voltmeter, mech. temp. and mech. oil pressure) had whatever parts I needed to just plumb it in- I recall it was metric, but can't tell you much more than that. I also don't think an affordable pull solenoid will have enough grunt to pull the fuel shutoff- at least mine took some effort. That's why I thought a low pressure electric solenoid to shut off the fuel flow would be the ticket.

I agree with the solenoid valve idea, but regular needle valve solenoids are not likely to work here (plugging, incompatible with fuel, etc.). The little Murphy valve that is over $100 isn't a standard needle type, it's a rotating ball valve made just for fuel.

I looked at the shut off cable arm to see if a shorter throw can be repositioned closer to the hub, but I think the experimentation with low cost pull solenoids is going to be unknown adventure. I'd rather put out $100 on something that for sure will work.

So, I have my Murphy temp gauge coming; today, I ordered a 14 gallon fuel cylinder, spun aluminum, 10" x 36". It will mount right on the front fender (this 8200 has a hefty 1/4" plate fender, and a 3/8" steel plate bumper). I stood on it today, gave it 230 lbs, bounced around a bit, and all that happened was that the front tire compressed a bit ) The fuel cylinder will sit nicely on top of the fender. The 10" cylinder height will also fit between the factory fuel tank's 12" from filler to bottom of tank, so no problems with overtopping and/or unused capacity.

Today I hooked the 8200 up to the well. It grunted a bit, like, what is that on my rear end :laughing: I could only run it up to just over 2000 rpm (600 rpm PTO) before it stopped going. The well pump at that rpm only pulls 6 hp; figure about 2-3 hp tops lost in the driveshaft and gear head, and this little 0.9 liter engine is barely able to make 9-10 hp PTO at 2000. Kubota might be saying 16 PTO hp at 2600 rpm, but I think that is being very generous. I suspect the engine needs to run up to about 2200 before it gets into its power band. After 20 mins, nothing felt overly hot.

More work to do on getting it ready.

John

 

[murky]

The HST model only quotes 14 HP at PTO. The gear tractor does 16.

 

[Jwedd]

The HST model only quotes 14 HP at PTO. The gear tractor does 16.

Thanks, I wasn't sure about the rear PTO, I was thinking it was "gear" since the clutch is needed to engage it. I thought the mid-mount PTO might be the hydraulic that they reference.

So, essentially, everything connected to the rear of the engine on the HST models goes through a hydraulic pump or torque converter type system first?

John

 

[murky]

...So, essentially, everything connected to the rear of the engine on the HST models goes through a hydraulic pump or torque converter type system first?

John

That's how I interpret the spec.

 

[Jwedd]

That's how I interpret the spec.

well, it is what it is...

Couple comments, it's interesting how the HST pump can "kill" the engine. That won't happen ever with an automatic car tranny. Secondly, there is a robust cooler system for the HST on my 62141 SN (which doesn't show at all in the parts book). I'll be switching to Kubota SUDT2 shortly, and changing all the filters/oils. Maybe adding a cetane booster to the diesel as well....I'd like to see a couple more hp and another 100 rpm out the back (2200 rpm would be super). But I think I'm being overly optmistic.

John

 

[varmint]

Interesting... my 8200 was a gear tractor, and the PTO did some impressive work driving a post hole auger into hard ground and tree roots, without seeming to labor. I just got my first HST tractor, so I am learning about that system and what to expect. I have seen ball solenoid valves, for reasonable prices, and I would think a 1/4" valve would be fine for your fuel shut-off. Post a photo when you get it all sorted out?

 

[varmint]

Since I mentioned cheap solenoid valves, I thought I'd better take a look... 3 minutes found this one, $53, and I'll bet you can find even cheaper deals. 8262H022 12/DC Asco Solenoid Valve 2-Way NC 1/4 | ASCO 2-Way Solenoid Valves 1/4 NPT - 12v DC | Valworx '®'
I remember almost buying one for a project that was going to cost me $30 something... 12V, of course.

 

[varmint]

Or this one, $26 delivered, from Amazon.

MISOL motorized ball valve 1/2"(BSP)DN15 / 12VDC / 2 way / electrical valve / ball valve with acuator / CR01: Industrial Hvac Controls: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

 

[Jwedd]

Since I mentioned cheap solenoid valves, I thought I'd better take a look... 3 minutes found this one, $53, and I'll bet you can find even cheaper deals. 8262H022 12/DC Asco Solenoid Valve 2-Way NC 1/4 | ASCO 2-Way Solenoid Valves 1/4 NPT - 12v DC | Valworx 'ｮ'
I remember almost buying one for a project that was going to cost me $30 something... 12V, of course.

Good ideas...I'll look some more. I think the valve needs to be "normally open" and the ground completes the circuit to stop fuel. That way, it will not be constantly activated and more liable to burn up/give out. The other one you posted has BSP, which will be hard to find fittings.

The problem with normal materials of construction, is that liquid petroleums often cause swelling of the gasket materials (especially certain kinds of plastics typically found in water valves).

I'll take photos as the items come in and assembly starts. The valve I think is the last piece to the puzzle. On the oil pressure, I'll simply tap into the warning light ground to shut off the relay. I got a good deal on a Murphy 518APH-12 kill switch on ebay. Thanks for the ideas and interest!

John

 

[varmint]

Well, the more expensive Asco valve is listed for "light oils" and has buna-n seals... oughta work?

 

[Jwedd]

Well, the more expensive Asco valve is listed for "light oils" and has buna-n seals... oughta work?

ok took some searching but I think this one will work. It is US made and listed for diesel fuel. $32 was the best price I could find. It has bigger than 1/8" orifice so will pass plenty of fuel.

R & K Products : AFC Model 111 Fuel Sutoff Valve-AFC11112 [79-AFC11112] - $31.97 Shipping is $15.

It is also on ebay with free shipping for $37, so I think this is the way to go. ebay 151273949673 but that item number will disappear, sooner or later (sooner, 'cause I'm likely to buy it )

Maybe the interesting aside on this valve is that it gets hooked in and activated with the ignition key, so turning the key off also turns the tractor off.

John

 

[Jwedd]

Re: B8200HST-D, high temperature whistle? (now, stationary PTO operation)

Ok here is a quickie update. Everything is installed now and I ran the tractor for 7 hours today on the gearhead water well.

Firstly, I discovered I had plenty of power. Earlier when I found that the tractor wouldn't pull over 8 PTO hp, it turns out that the jet cock valve (air bleeder valve) had been left open, and I wasn't getting much fuel pressure to the injector pump. It will run clear up to 2600 rpm now, about 10 hp PTO. So no issues with power. The sweet spot seems to be about 2000 rpm, it chugs away nicely. At 2200 rpm, it runs at about 190 degrees with 90 degrees ambient. It runs about 180 degrees at 2000 rpm.

I bought a Murphy kill switch (ebay) for about $40. I found an AFC 111 fuel shutoff valve from a propane company for about $25 inc shipping. The Murphy temp gauge was about $40 (ebay). 14 gallon fuel tank, spun aluminum cylinder, $160. I pigtailed off the oil pressure gauge sender to cover that aspect. Various fittings, wiring, new fuel lines everywhere, new belts, new thermostat, changed all the fluids and filters, and seems good to go.

 

[Egon]

Good show:thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

[Jwedd]

Good show:thumbsup::thumbsup:

Here is an update. Because of the extended drought, I've had to run this little Kubota for 18-20 hrs a day for the last 10 weeks. That's over 1200 hrs at 2000-2100 rpm (using the 750rpm PTO position). It's been really draining running 10 gallons of diesel down every day. The oil gets change 1x/week, the filter 1x/3 weeks, and the air filter/fuel filter 1x in 10 weeks.

There have been some issues over the 1200 hours. The idler pulley froze up, and that killed something--I think it just bogged the engine down before tripping any Murphy gauges. Then, I had the fuel pump get weak--I couldn't get the rpms into the power range, and it didn't matter whether the bleeder valve was open or closed (why I figured fuel pump). The tach hour meter also stopped clocking, although the rpm needle is still working.

I change the hydro fluid at the start, using the Kubota ultra synthetic.

As for temperature, the murphy gauge will get up to about 200degrees when it is about 100 outside. Otherwise, it runs at about 180. The radiator was rebuilt and re-cored.

So far, everything is going fine.

John