B7800 front chain clearance

[jdgreg]

I'm not familar with the 'Bota, but I had similar problem with front chains on my JD 4210. I simply flipped the tires around, they stayed on the same side, just turn them around. This put the tire tread going in the wrong direction, but with the chains on that doesnt matter. It does make the front stance a little wider, but that seems to add stability. I've done this for several winters with no ill effects, and I have a FEL snow blade on mine. Hope this helps some. Good luck to you guys and gals in this round of storms.

 

[Franko]

My order from Tirechains.com was cancelled because they are out of stock for the season. I am trolling Ebay to see if I can find some semi chains, since they seem about the same dimensions as my rear tires, but I have not had much luck for the last two weeks, other than getting those front chains.

Frank

I got through by phone to TireChains.com and they were able to make up some chains that would work, even though they are out of stock. They are going to ship them out and they should arrive by tomorrow. They came through for me!

Frank

 

[captin_insano]

Good to hear. What size chain did you get?

 

[Franko]

I ordered 'truck' chains, 5/16 to try to avoid any clearance problems. The are called '2271 truck chains' on the order.

Frank

 

[captin_insano]

Sounds good. let us know how they fit and how they work.

 

[Leejohn]

This is what I done in 2008. I did it because of the mud builting up and taking all the paint off of the inside of the wheel.



For the guys that have no clearance with the R4 tires. You might want to do this, its real easy and saves $$$ too.
I was going to make some spacers but after looking at the flange of the front hub I didn't think it could handle the longer studs. The flange is right around 1/4" and sure wouldn't want to brake the hub. Tried turning the wheels around by switching from side to side, I didn't like that to much because it made my steering seem loose.
What I ended up doing was to grind the inside of wheel out. Moved it in 1 1/4" and rewelded. The 1 1/4" put the inside bolt flange in the center of the tire. There is about 1 1/2" clearance between the tire and the steering bracket. Worked out real good!!

 

[captin_insano]

I wouldnt suggest it or the flip and heres why. I dont know the exact measurements but lets say its 20" from center of tire to center of tire. If you increase this to 23" you made a 15% change in the width. While 3 inches dont sound like much it can greatly increase the stress on your axle and its components. if the axle is rated to hold say 1000lbs and that how much weight your loader can put on it, you just increased the weight related stress on the axle by at least 15%. So that 1000 lbs can become alot heavier. I say at least 15% because the percentage will change much greater if you look just at the hub/portal drop area. If its 5 inches from the bevel gear, portal and bolts/whatever on the front axle and you increase that distance by 3 inches (rather 1.5" each side) you increase the weight related stresses it sees on those components by 30%. I dont know about you all but I wouldnt want to do that to my tractor. I expect it to lift and handle loads for a long time so I see no good reason to do this to it. If you think its worth it after you consider this by all means have at it but I think its import to know what its doing. Theres also the scrub radius thing I mentioned earlier with the steering