B7100HST Weight?
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Bird
Rest in Peace
ScottL, I bought a new 1995 B7100HST w/B1630C loader in July '95, but I let all my manuals go with it when I traded up to a B2710 in August '99. I only put a little less than 500 hours on the B7100. The seals in the loader cylinders leaked down enough to let the loader gradually lower even with the engine running, so all 4 cylinders were replaced under warranty within the first year. And after about 3 years, the fuel tank developed a leak on the bottom where one of the metal straps went around it. Those were the only problems I ever had with it, and we used it pretty hard. Darned nice little tractor and if it'd had power steering I'd probably still have it. I've forgotten most of the specs, but I think the weight was listed at a little less than 1,300 for the tractor, plus the loader. And yes, I used a 6 x 16 trailer to haul it; still use the same trailer to haul my B2710. The things I didn't like were the lack of power steering, lack of position control, and the loader not being a quick attach, but you can live without those niceties.
Bird
Bird
Cornfed
New member
I have a 1991 B7100HST 4wd and the manual for mine says that it weighs 1257 lbs. The 2wd weighs in at a whopping 1124 lbs. The B1630 loader weighs 387 lbs. and a 48 inch bucket another 97 lbs. 42"-89 lbs. 54"-105 lbs. I have a Land Pride BB1548 Box scraper on the back of mine and it weighs another 335 lbs. It actually balances out and makes up for the lack of power steering quite nicely. If you have a Land Pride rear mower I can tell you how much it weighs if you give me the model. Andy
Bird
Rest in Peace
Those weights make me think the '91 and '95 models are just about the same. Of course, there's been a lot of discussion in the past as to whether or not Kubota's published weights include the tires and wheels.
Bird
Bird
GlueGuy
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I have a friend with a '95 B7100 with about 800 hours on it now. The only problem that he's mentioned is that the ratio between the front/rear tires (he has R4's) were miss-matched from the factory. He was wearing out the front tires a lot! He ran some tests to see what the rotation ratio was between the fronts and rears, and got a different size front tire, and it's been good to go ever since. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif If you want the specifics, let me know & I'll call him up.
BTW - He really loves his B7100, the only thing he would change on it is to have power steering. It's quite a little workhorse!
The GlueGuy
BTW - He really loves his B7100, the only thing he would change on it is to have power steering. It's quite a little workhorse!
The GlueGuy
Cornfed
New member
GlueGuy,
If you get the chance to talk with your friend about the corrected size of tires, I would be interested. I'm about due for new fronts. Great little tractor, pulls like a little Catapillar. The Box Scraper can stop the tractor if it digs in to deep, but the diesel and tires keep right on goin. Really admire it's esprit de corps /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif.
If you get the chance to talk with your friend about the corrected size of tires, I would be interested. I'm about due for new fronts. Great little tractor, pulls like a little Catapillar. The Box Scraper can stop the tractor if it digs in to deep, but the diesel and tires keep right on goin. Really admire it's esprit de corps /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif.
GlueGuy
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Cornfed,
Will do. I'll call him later. Should have your information tonight (if he's in town).
The GlueGuy
Will do. I'll call him later. Should have your information tonight (if he's in town).
The GlueGuy
Thanks to everyone for their numbers. I'll definitely get at least a 6x16 tandem trailer.
A couple of questions that may seem dumb, but I'm not a tractor guy (yet).
1) Do you secure the tractor to the trailer with chains, or can you use good ratchet straps? What are the recommended attachment points on the tractor for safe hauling?
2) As part of the deal, I got a Land Pride three blade pull behind mower and a Kubota RotoTiller. Should I drop the FEL before mowing or tilling? I figured that the weight on the front would help, epecially when tilling.
A couple of questions that may seem dumb, but I'm not a tractor guy (yet).
1) Do you secure the tractor to the trailer with chains, or can you use good ratchet straps? What are the recommended attachment points on the tractor for safe hauling?
2) As part of the deal, I got a Land Pride three blade pull behind mower and a Kubota RotoTiller. Should I drop the FEL before mowing or tilling? I figured that the weight on the front would help, epecially when tilling.
Bird
Rest in Peace
Scott, as for securing the tractor on the trailer, I use 3/8" chains. If there's no implement on the back I attach the rear chain to a clevis hook on the drawbar (do you have a drawbar? It was an extra "option" that I bought for the B7100, but is usually standard equipment on most tractors I think). Front chain was always attached to the front end loader. With the B2710, if the loader is not on the tractor, I run the chain through the front frame. However, some folks use the ratchet straps and I see no problem with that if you have strong enough straps and don't route them so they get cut.
As for dropping the loader; my B7100's loader was not a quick attach, so I never removed it from the tractor anytime. With the B2710 and a quick attach loader, I always remove it for mowing and tilling. There's really no problem either way, except that the loader out in front can occasionally be in the way of turning near obstacles, and it restricts your visibility a little bit; no big deal. It seems to me that the tractor rides a bit rougher when mowing on rough ground with the loader on because it tends to bounce up and down. Of course, if your rear mower is heavy enough, you might need the loader on the front for a counterweight to keep the front end from getting too light when you pick up the mower. And for tilling, is your Kubota tiller a counter-rotating tiller? If so you might want the weight on the front end to gain additional traction for pulling it. My tiller rotates forward, so if anything, it's trying to push the tractor forward and there's no need for any weight on the front end.
And after all that long winded answer, my suggestion (if you have a front end loader that can be easily removed) is to try it a little bit both ways and see which way is more convenient and comfortable for you. The tractor ain't gonna care which way you do it./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
Bird
As for dropping the loader; my B7100's loader was not a quick attach, so I never removed it from the tractor anytime. With the B2710 and a quick attach loader, I always remove it for mowing and tilling. There's really no problem either way, except that the loader out in front can occasionally be in the way of turning near obstacles, and it restricts your visibility a little bit; no big deal. It seems to me that the tractor rides a bit rougher when mowing on rough ground with the loader on because it tends to bounce up and down. Of course, if your rear mower is heavy enough, you might need the loader on the front for a counterweight to keep the front end from getting too light when you pick up the mower. And for tilling, is your Kubota tiller a counter-rotating tiller? If so you might want the weight on the front end to gain additional traction for pulling it. My tiller rotates forward, so if anything, it's trying to push the tractor forward and there's no need for any weight on the front end.
And after all that long winded answer, my suggestion (if you have a front end loader that can be easily removed) is to try it a little bit both ways and see which way is more convenient and comfortable for you. The tractor ain't gonna care which way you do it./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
Bird
GlueGuy
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Cornfed,
As promised, here's the information from my friend (quoted exactly /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif:
<font color=blue>9.5-16 long bar-short bar rears and 23" 8.50-12 skid-steer (bobcat)on the front seem to be the closest correct ratio.
I can drive in 4x4 on pavement with no binding of the power train now. With the original tires, the fronts had to skid 15" for each revolution of the rears.
If I remember, the ratio of O.D.'s is 1.4:1. I like the wide fronts 'cause they float better on soft or muddy soil than the 6-12's which are not exactly in sync with the big rears.
Bought at Gemplers an old farm supply catalogue co.
www.gemplers.com and/or 1-800-382-8473.</font color=blue>
Let me know if that's "close enough" /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
The GlueGuy
As promised, here's the information from my friend (quoted exactly /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif:
<font color=blue>9.5-16 long bar-short bar rears and 23" 8.50-12 skid-steer (bobcat)on the front seem to be the closest correct ratio.
I can drive in 4x4 on pavement with no binding of the power train now. With the original tires, the fronts had to skid 15" for each revolution of the rears.
If I remember, the ratio of O.D.'s is 1.4:1. I like the wide fronts 'cause they float better on soft or muddy soil than the 6-12's which are not exactly in sync with the big rears.
Bought at Gemplers an old farm supply catalogue co.
www.gemplers.com and/or 1-800-382-8473.</font color=blue>
Let me know if that's "close enough" /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
The GlueGuy
Cornfed
New member
GlueGuy,
Thanks for checking that out. I think that those sizes are different than mine and I will consider that when purchasing my new fronts. Thanks again, Andy
Thanks for checking that out. I think that those sizes are different than mine and I will consider that when purchasing my new fronts. Thanks again, Andy
GlueGuy
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Andy,
Be sure to check what your front/rear turn ratio is before you switch! You might have a different situation./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
The GlueGuy
Be sure to check what your front/rear turn ratio is before you switch! You might have a different situation./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
The GlueGuy
bpence
Platinum Member
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- Kubota B7100 HST - 1995
I have a 1995 B7100 HST and went back through the documentation that came with the tractor via the previous owner. He kept the original sales brochure and owners guide. You may want to do some checking because according to the "stuff" I looked through only Ag (R1s) and Turf (R3s) tires were available on the B7100 in 1995. And, I believe R4s have really only gotten popular the past few years (4-5) on compact tractors. To switch to R4s might require a different set of wheels. Just suggesting you check before investing hard earned $,$$$.
Bob Pence
Bob Pence
Cornfed
New member
Bob,
My fronts are 6-12 and the rears are 8.3-16, both sets Goodyear. At the risk of sounding pretty wet behind the ears, I guess I really don't know about the R-rating that I'm hearing about. I think that they are four ply and I know that they are tubeless. I know that they are field type tires and they really like to muck it up in the mud, or is that me? Andy
My fronts are 6-12 and the rears are 8.3-16, both sets Goodyear. At the risk of sounding pretty wet behind the ears, I guess I really don't know about the R-rating that I'm hearing about. I think that they are four ply and I know that they are tubeless. I know that they are field type tires and they really like to muck it up in the mud, or is that me? Andy
bpence
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- Kubota B7100 HST - 1995
You have regular agricultural type tires on your B7100. These tires have the most aggressive type lugged tread used on compact tractors, provide the best overall traction, and are designated R1 type tires.
Turf type tires are generally wider and on slightly larger (wider) rims, with a very mild tread pattern that won't tear up the yard. These tires usually provide the lowest degree of overall traction, and are designated R3 type tires. My B7100HST has turf tires with a front tire size of 20.5 x 8.00-10 and a rear tire size of 29 x 12.50-15. Same model as your machine, just different tire/wheel sizes.
Industrial tires, or the R4 type tires you've probably heard about, are kind of a cross between the R1 and R3. They have lugs like the R1, but are much less aggressive than the agricultural type tire, are a bit wider with a flatter footprint, and will provide better overall traction than turf tires, but less than ag types. These are pretty common tires on a lot of tractor/loader/backhoe machines.
Anyway, since you have the agricultural type tires, if/when you replace tires you'll probably want to stay with the same type tire. Otherwise, I think you might have to change rims, and that could get pretty pricey.
If you're new to compact tractor ownership, you might want to consider investing in Muhammed's book that's available here on Tractorbynet. Word has it this handy little reference guide provides a lot of educational material on compacts and it just might help you do a good job of taking care of that new B7100 and of even greater importance, operating it safely.
Bob Pence
Turf type tires are generally wider and on slightly larger (wider) rims, with a very mild tread pattern that won't tear up the yard. These tires usually provide the lowest degree of overall traction, and are designated R3 type tires. My B7100HST has turf tires with a front tire size of 20.5 x 8.00-10 and a rear tire size of 29 x 12.50-15. Same model as your machine, just different tire/wheel sizes.
Industrial tires, or the R4 type tires you've probably heard about, are kind of a cross between the R1 and R3. They have lugs like the R1, but are much less aggressive than the agricultural type tire, are a bit wider with a flatter footprint, and will provide better overall traction than turf tires, but less than ag types. These are pretty common tires on a lot of tractor/loader/backhoe machines.
Anyway, since you have the agricultural type tires, if/when you replace tires you'll probably want to stay with the same type tire. Otherwise, I think you might have to change rims, and that could get pretty pricey.
If you're new to compact tractor ownership, you might want to consider investing in Muhammed's book that's available here on Tractorbynet. Word has it this handy little reference guide provides a lot of educational material on compacts and it just might help you do a good job of taking care of that new B7100 and of even greater importance, operating it safely.
Bob Pence
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