B7100 engine removal with hydrostatic transmission

[kcid66]

I have a b7100 with hydrostatic trans 4wd low compression won't start want to pull the engine out. Can anyone tell me how to separate the engine from the hydrostatic trans so I can remove the engine from the tractor?
Thank You for any help

 

[Carl_NH]

You can do most of the engine work without "splitting" the tractor - as splitting is done to replace the clutch or hydo drive, seals etc. But if you want to split it - get some jack stands, make up a cradle to support the front or back with one side being able to roll away.

Also if you have an overhead structure you can chain hoist a section. Personally I would not split it but get the head off, and bottom end, then assess the engine at that point.

 

[Harry in Ky]

That's one opinion. Here's another. Personally, for me it's a moot point as I don't do engine work any more, but I still pull a few motors for rebuilds. I wouldn't split the tractor either, and certainly wouldn't attempt an in frame overhaul on that size tractor. I would strip the sheet metal, fuel tank, lines, hoses, wires, ETC. Then decide how to hang the front end and frame supports. Put the tractor on a single jack stand under the clutch housing. Remove both front tires and wheels. I use a cherry picker mostly, and simply unbolt the front end, battery supports, radiator, side frames and all that as a unit. It's much easier to handle without tires. Set that off in a corner on a single jack stand or on blocks. That leaves the bare engine hanging on the clutch housing. A few more bolts and you have the complete engine hanging. From that point it's ready for whatever you decide to do do it. Putting it all back in reverse order. Has worked for me countless times.

 

[kcid66]

That's one opinion. Here's another. Personally, for me it's a moot point as I don't do engine work any more, but I still pull a few motors for rebuilds. I wouldn't split the tractor either, and certainly wouldn't attempt an in frame overhaul on that size tractor. I would strip the sheet metal, fuel tank, lines, hoses, wires, ETC. Then decide how to hang the front end and frame supports. Put the tractor on a single jack stand under the clutch housing. Remove both front tires and wheels. I use a cherry picker mostly, and simply unbolt the front end, battery supports, radiator, side frames and all that as a unit. It's much easier to handle without tires. Set that off in a corner on a single jack stand or on blocks. That leaves the bare engine hanging on the clutch housing. A few more bolts and you have the complete engine hanging. From that point it's ready for whatever you decide to do do it. Putting it all back in reverse order. Has worked for me countless times.

Thank you for your help, my b7100 is hydrostatic drive and would like to remove the engine from the tractor to put on engine stand to work on and not have to split the tractor if I didn't have to but not sure how to unhook the hydrostatic trans from the engine. I have removed the Bellhousing bolts but unsure of the rest of it. On a normal auto trans it has flywheel bolted to the engine crank and the torque converter is bolted to the flywheel. I see and inspection plug on the right side of the bellhousing but unsure what that is used for. Didn't want to pull something apart that that wasn't necessary. Thank you again for your help

 

[ruffdog]

There are plenty of splitting videos......

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=b7100+split+case

 

[kcid66]

There are plenty of splitting videos......

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=b7100+split+cas

 

[Harry in Ky]

Thank you for your help, my b7100 is hydrostatic drive and would like to remove the engine from the tractor to put on engine stand to work on and not have to split the tractor if I didn't have to but not sure how to unhook the hydrostatic trans from the engine. I have removed the Bellhousing bolts but unsure of the rest of it. On a normal auto trans it has flywheel bolted to the engine crank and the torque converter is bolted to the flywheel. I see and inspection plug on the right side of the bellhousing but unsure what that is used for. Didn't want to pull something apart that that wasn't necessary. Thank you again for your help

This is by no means a "normal auto trans". Once the engine is unbolted from the clutch housing (bell housing in automotive terms) it will simply slide forward. Nothing inside needs to be unbolted, as it just has a transmission shaft (or two) splined into a clutch disc or drive plate. The engine doesn't just lift out like lifting the engine out of a car.

You don't really need to "split" the tractor in the normal sense of the term. You do however have to separate the engine from the clutch housing (the back half of the tractor) and also separate it from the front axle and side support frame (front half of the tractor). Not much difference really, but the way I do it, it's just removing one group of parts as a unit, setting that aside, then the engine as another unit. I've done it both ways and find that doing it this way works far better for me. You can follow whichever path you choose, it's your project. I've only been doing this for fifty years, what would I know.

 

[kcid66]

Thank You I will check them out.

 

[kcid66]

This is by no means a "normal auto trans". Once the engine is unbolted from the clutch housing (bell housing in automotive terms) it will simply slide forward. Nothing inside needs to be unbolted, as it just has a transmission shaft (or two) splined into a clutch disc or drive plate. The engine doesn't just lift out like lifting the engine out of a car.

You don't really need to "split" the tractor in the normal sense of the term. You do however have to separate the engine from the clutch housing (the back half of the tractor) and also separate it from the front axle and side support frame (front half of the tractor). Not much difference really, but the way I do it, it's just removing one group of parts as a unit, setting that aside, then the engine as another unit. I've done it both ways and find that doing it this way works far better for me. You can follow whichever path you choose, it's your project. I've only been doing this for fifty years, what would I know.

Thank You Harry for all this information, very helpful, This tractor is my friends, he bought it without it running and thought it would be a fairly easy fix, He is not a mechanic and is in over his head so he asked me to help him. I'm a retired automotive mechanic (cars & trucks) I didn't want to pull something apart without enough knowledge to know how to put it back together. I know there is a certain process for taking anything apart and The hydrostatic transmission I have never worked on and didn't want my friend just unbolting everything, yanking it apart and not be able to put it back together then I would have to figure it out for him, The back story is my friend bought this B7100 from a person who bought it form a different person without it running and he couldn't get it running and decided to sell it instead. My friend bought it and somehow, I inherited it. The engine had 50 lbs. compression dry and 310 lbs. compression wet. soaked the cylinders trying to free up the rings with little success. Without knowing the history of this tractor, I would venture to guess it has been setting around for many years. and is going to need a major engine overhaul. So in review. I should unbolt the bellhousing from the engine, split the tractor in half, the hydrostatic trans just has splined shafts inside the bellhousing that slide apart and then remove the engine from the from half? Again, Thank You for all your knowledge and information it will be of great help