B3200/B3000/B3030 vibration update anyone?

[Teikas Dad]

In my tractor research (considering a B3200) I've read a bunch of posts about engine vibration with the 4 cyl engines. Several people indicated that the timing was set differently at the factory to meet emissions requirements and when correctly set the vibration was no longer a problem.

All of the posts seem to be a couple years old. Has anyone had any recent experience with the 4 cyl engine and vibration or has Kubota figured out the solution on the tractors built in the last year or so.

The vibration is the biggest thing that scares me about the B3200, it's got me considering the B2630 instead. I know the 2630 has more bells and whistles and position control over the quarter inching valve, but seeing that I don't have a tractor and never used either system I don't think it's really a deal breaker for me.

Thanks

 

[moog]

I just bought a B3200, I've had it about 2 weeks now. So far I haven't noticed any unusual vibrations. Seems to run really smooth with a surprising amount of power for such a small tractor. I wouldn't worry about it, it's under warranty for 2 years. Go to the dealer where you plan on buying and tell them you want to drive the tractor, see for yourself if the tractor your buying has unnecessary vibrations. Everywhere I went shopping for tractors they always offered me a little seat time around their lot to check things out.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

I have owned a B3200 and a few other Kubotas. I now own a B2620. It seems to vibrate more than some others I've owned a certain RPMs like at 1400 to 1800 with a smooth spot at 1600. Over 2000 rpm smooths out. The B3200 was "fairly" smooth up to a bit over 3000rpm and then had a bit more vibration but I rarely ran it over 3000rpms.
I went to Barlows and tried another new B2620 and it to had some rpm levels that had a bit of vibration under 2000 rpms like mine but not at exactly the same points but mine and the other new one smoothed out at 2000rpms.
They are tractors and not cars or trucks sooooo they will vibrate more than a car or truck and they will ride rougher than cars and trucks since they don't have the same suspensions or no suspension.
I agree, go try some at your dealers and see how it feels to you and they will vibrate some and more/less at different rpms. Going to a 30 series will not effect the vibration, I don't think because that isn't a part of the 30 vs 20 series. The 30 is much more money for a few luxury add ons.

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

I've got a 2012 B3300SU, bought it new in May and now have 63 hrs on it. Basically the same tractor as the 3200 without the mid pto. The biggest source of vibrations is from all the QA and loader pins.

Replaced the loader QA pins with 1" bolts as I have QA bucket and never plan on removing the loader frame
Tightened all the keeper bolts (dealer didn't) on the loader cyl mount pins.
Still need to find some wave washers or similar for the ROPS pins and the quick release on the parking stand.

The loader bolts made a huge difference. Chasing vibrations is a pain but well worth it. I don't think it's any worse now than any of the others I've driven or looked at.

 

[Teikas Dad]

Thanks for the replies, maybe they got the major vibration issues figured out. I stopped by my local Kubota dealer today and kicked some tires on the lot. (They're closed on Sunday so no salesman to chase me around the lot.:thumbsup

They had a B3200 parked next to a couple B2620's....it's all over....I want a B3200. It might be a little bigger than what I need...right now...but all of you on TBN keep saying buy bigger than you think you need, so I'm just obeying the rules.

 

[Stewie1]

I have a B3200 with 115 hours in just over a year. There are voracious at certain RPMs but nothing terrible. As pointed out earlier, locating noise sources goes a long way to helping things. I put grommets on the FEL pins and my dealer put springs on the ROPS pins too. A few tens of hours also smoothed rungs out. I am happy with mine now and don't have an issue with vibrations.

I also looked at the b2xxx to begin with but very quickly found myself at the 3200. It is still really manoevrable in the forest but has plenty of power for hauling and running my chipper. An L series was too big for my trails.

Really happy with my choice.

Stewie

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

Don't overlook the 3300. If you are like me and have no plans - ever - of running MMM or front blower etc you can get a bit more power than the 3200 for alot less $$$ but still the same overall dimensions. My 3300 was the same price as a 2920

 

[Teikas Dad]

Don't overlook the 3300. If you are like me and have no plans - ever - of running MMM or front blower etc you can get a bit more power than the 3200 for alot less $$$ but still the same overall dimensions. My 3300 was the same price as a 2920

Interesting...something I'll have to look at. I don't plan on a front snowblower or a MMM so maybe I don't need the mid PTO. Can it be added after the fact?

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

Interesting...something I'll have to look at. I don't plan on a front snowblower or a MMM so maybe I don't need the mid PTO. Can it be added after the fact?

Nope, not an option, the guts aren't there. That's where the big cost savings comes from.

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

As for the 1/4" valve vs position control on the 3pt hitch, I have no problems feathering it as smooth as I want. 25 yrs experience on countless different tractors may help but I haven't experienced the jerkyness reported by some. Way more throw to the lever than I'd like to make it work but I'm hoping the Tech will be able to adjust that when he's out next

 

[Bigfrank]

Hi there I'm new to the form and saw your issue.I just bought a B3200,2 weeks ago and love it! There is a little vibration in it,and was told to run it to 50hrs then bring it in and check the timing.If it's out i guess there is a shim under the injection pump that has to be removed i was told. Also i found out from Kubota that there is an updated floor mounts for this issue and it didnt start till serial#61000 and up so check for that for sure before you buy.

 

[s219]

Four cylinders are more unbalanced than three cylinders, and that's the fundamental difference at play. I am sure there are other factors in the case of both engines on a tractor (the three on my B2920 isn't going to win any awards) but in terms of fundamental harmonic balance, the four-cylinder has always been a bit of a wild child, even in cars. Most modern large fours in cars use balance shafts to quell vibrations. On a tractor, anything not bolted down becomes the counter-balance! (and even some of the bolted down stuff too).

 

[MW66]

I have about 180 hours on my B3200 in about 2 years. There is a sweet spot on the RPM's and I usually settle in there. It's a great machine. I have a rear tine tiller, 60" MMM, FEL, and a rear mounted snow blower so this machine is going all year round. The only thing that has happened is a dead battery this past May.

 

[TheWedge]

I have had my B3200 for a couple of years now (about 220 hours on it) and I have not had any problems with it (knocking on wood). Every spring and fall I grade my access road (about 2 miles) using a back blade including cutting and maintaining the ditches and even with the quarter inching valve I can achieve excellent results. In addition I operate a 3 pt blower, tiller and mower. With the front end loader w/QA and the backhoe, I feel I have the best multi-purpose tractor I can get for the money that is still easily trailered and towed with my 1/2 ton pickup. The only downside I have found is that the tractor is a littel on the light side so yo have to be carefull abd have the appropriate weight/ballast when doing ground engaging work but time in the seat will tell you what combination will give you the best results.

As for vibrations I notice some at the higher end of the RPM range but I find the "sweet spot" for my tractor when operating the tiller/blower/mower is around 2100. When doing loader/backhoe work I generally operate around 1900 rpms - the hoe can really move the tractor quickly around if I have too much engine speed.

I may be biased but you won't be disappointed. I owned two kubotas previously (bx23xx and bx24 both excellent tractors in their own rights) but have found the current setup ideal for my situation.

Mike

 

[speedy912]

In my tractor research (considering a B3200) I've read a bunch of posts about engine vibration with the 4 cyl engines. Several people indicated that the timing was set differently at the factory to meet emissions requirements and when correctly set the vibration was no longer a problem.

All of the posts seem to be a couple years old. Has anyone had any recent experience with the 4 cyl engine and vibration or has Kubota figured out the solution on the tractors built in the last year or so.

The vibration is the biggest thing that scares me about the B3200, it's got me considering the B2630 instead. I know the 2630 has more bells and whistles and position control over the quarter inching valve, but seeing that I don't have a tractor and never used either system I don't think it's really a deal breaker for me.

Thanks

Not all 4 cylinder Kubota engines vibrate. Some can shake your sack off. Previously owned 2710 and no vibration problems. Traded for B3200 June 5, 2012 that shook something fierce. Selling dealer had 28 hours in attempting repair which included timing changes and injector pump replacement. Nothing helped. Finally Kubota told the dealer to stop working on it and replace the tractor. Dealer set up two new B3200 models for me to run in his shop. Both were better than mine but one was still better than the other. By this time I am not willing to consider another B3200 and have traded for B3000 even though both are basically the same 4 cylinder engine. According to the regional sales person, the B3000 does not have same history of vibration the B3200 has. The B3000 is to be delivered December 31, 2012. During the little time I used the B3200 and other than the vibration problem is had proved to be a workhorse. The amazing part of this story is Kubota failure to fix a known problem. If you have one of the shakers do not simply accept such. Notify Kubota. If necessary notify your state attorney general. The theory of shaking problem due to emission control may very well be valid. if you are going to purchase a B3200 i suggest you try several and pick one with least vibration.

 

[My Hoe]

Interesting post--subscribed.

 

[speedy912]

Hey guys, I'm a Kubota fan. The B3200 with vibration problem is not my first and probably not my last. Previously owned started with a G20. How many of you know what that was? Then a couple of three cylinder tractors. Then became a 2 Kubota owner adding a front mount to the tractor. Traded 3 cylinder for the 2710. Sweet 4 cylinder engine 2710. Not a shaker. Traded front mount for ZD21. Last year traded the ZD21 for ZD326 and now the B3200 for B3000. Accessories include Tiller, Front mount snow blower. Living in Illinois ya know. 55 gallon sprayer with 12 foot boom, Belly Mower, 3 point 1/3 yard concrete mixer and I am probably forgetting something. To those who thought I was mad a Kubota, did you miss the part where I said it was a workhorse. Anything mechanical can have a problem. My B3200 had/has a severe problem. I am not alone with that problem. Just refer to other places and you will find that a true statement. Again, not all 4 cylinder engines vibrate. Few have what is commonly referred to as "silent shaft". Going back some years many aircraft were powered with in-line 4 cylinder engines. Would you want one of the shakers in an airplane you are riding in? If the engine shakes its self off the airplane the airplane becomes a falling leaf. Many current production aircraft have opposed 4 cylinder engines. Opposed or in line all have to up and two down. The worst thing I said was persons thinking of buying a B3200 should be watchful for a significant vibration problem. Oh Yeah, I did say something about Kubota needing to fix the problem. In hopes of making you guys happy, The green company has nothing that can compare to the Kubota line of compact tractors and mowers. I drive orange. Lastly, if everything mechanical were perfect we would not see auto recalls and lemon laws would not exist.

Thanks for your time,
speedy

 

[workinallthetime]

b3030 with over 500 rough hours on here, zd326 with around 200 hours on her, both have vibrations but no major issues. like someone said i run the 3030 in her sweet spot most of the time and the zd326 is always at wot once warmed up. i use synthetic oil and change it every 75 -100 hours. both are great machines just wish the 3030 was a l39

 

[parkgt]

My 3200 with 40 hrs does have more vibration than the 8200 I gave to a son. It is noticeable above 2100 rpms but I rarely operate above 1900 to 2000. Maybe I am just not critical enough, but it really doesn't bother me all that much.

 

[My Hoe]

I've got a 2012 B3300SU, bought it new in May and now have 63 hrs on it. Basically the same tractor as the 3200 without the mid pto. The biggest source of vibrations is from all the QA and loader pins.

Replaced the loader QA pins with 1" bolts as I have QA bucket and never plan on removing the loader frame
Tightened all the keeper bolts (dealer didn't) on the loader cyl mount pins.
Still need to find some wave washers or similar for the ROPS pins and the quick release on the parking stand.

The loader bolts made a huge difference. Chasing vibrations is a pain but well worth it. I don't think it's any worse now than any of the others I've driven or looked at.

CDN Farm Boy,

I realize this is an older post, but the vibration issue still concerns me.

On a different note, however, and please forgive me if I've misunderstood you, but I've got to ask: Do those bolts have a SMOOTH SHANK, up until the threaded portion, at the end, so that the moving parts are still working on a smooth surface, as with the original pins? Or did you SLEEVE those bolts you used to replace the loader's pins with? Because if not, I'd be worried that the (relatively sharp) thread edges of your new bolts would "hog out" the holes in the frame the loader mounts to.

Have you pulled a pin to see if the threads are wearing down/rounding off, and if the size of the holes in the frame are expanding? I'm just wondering if you couldn't use a smaller diameter, high-strength bolt, with a sleeve. Maybe a copper (pipe) one, so it would wear before any of the steel parts?

But then I must add, please research that carefully, first, because if a (smaller) loader QA bolt broke, someone could get killed.

Did you try the rubber grommet fix on the QA pins first? Or the "belleville washer" or "wave washer"? Just curious.

Thanks!

My Hoe