B3030 Top and Tilt measurements?

[hazmat]

hey Charles - how's the weather on the Vineyard? I'm heading to Oak Bluffs for Mem Day weekend.

The quick hitch is way better than the three point on my TC18. No extendable lower links, no ratched side adjust. My Dad's TC40DA has the deluex three point - it is real nice when you are hooking up the larger implements that you really can't muscle around on your own. (like a 6' rotary cutter).

 

[Charlesaf3]

Hey Hazmat,

Hopefully good this weekend - of course this is a year late!

Did you ever put top n tilt on the b3030? If so, mind sharing what you did?

 

[hazmat]

Hey Hazmat,

Hopefully good this weekend - of course this is a year late!

Did you ever put top n tilt on the b3030? If so, mind sharing what you did?

The extended forecast looks OK for Sat, Nice for Sunday.

Anyway - timely post. I just received a sidelink from Gearmore. I still need to measure for hoses & have some made up (this weeks project).

I have the CCM toplink, but I broke it - (my fault) - the check valve & associated plumbing doesn't fit well. The B3030 end is tight, so is the quick hitch side. I've got new tubes on order from CCM & think I've come up with a solution to the clearance issue (new hole in quick hitch). If you aren't using the quick hitch, it will fit fine, put the rod end towards the tractor.

For control, I've got 2 "factory" rear remotes on the B3030.

I'll post some pix once I get it all set up.

 

[stimpee]

Anyone know how much the "factory" rear remotes on the B3030 should cost?

I am thinking about doing some remotes (2-3) for top/tilt or other things, and also possibly the WR Long electric valve for a possible grapple in the front.

Trying to figure out which way to go with that. I think the factory remotes (2) plus the Long electric valve will end up being a lot more expensive than me putting together a 3-4 spool valve and mounting it on the back on the ROPS or something. However going the factory route will be a lot cleaner, and the Long valve will be easier to use on the grapple if I go that way. So it is cost vs integration I guess!

Steve

 

[Charlesaf3]

I have one rear remote currently - I use it plus a long hose to run my front grapple. Could be cleaner looking, but its really not bad, and looks fine. If you want to save a few bucks I'd run the grapple off the remotes. I don't mind reaching to the factory lever to operate the grapple - its not like one opens and closes it a few times a minute

I have one remote now, and would love to figure out how to add 2 more. Any thoughts on that from people more sophisticated about hydraulics? (which would be everyone, btw)

Hazmat, I'd love to see any pics, on/off/whatever. Can't quite visualize your problem I'm afraid, but fear running into it myself.

What size toplink and sidelink did you go with? And how did you break it? Which quick hitch? So many questions...

I'll be on the island this weekend, I'll look for you in OB. What color/name is the boat? I have this vision of me walking down the harbor saying "hi, are you hazmat?". People are definitely going to think my first stop was the liquor store at the end of the harbor...

 

[hazmat]

Charles

The Toplink is 18-26.5" version

The sidelink is gearmore # L2.5x4-15KB-RH which means 2.5 dia 4" stroke 15" closed length.

My real name is Steve Dewey, Boat is Duet, 38 foot freedom (sailboat) hailing from Padanaram- white hull, navy blue canvas. I'll be the younger guy (33) on the boat

stimpee factory remotes are ~$500 each IIRC. You can find 2007 list here

 

[Charlesaf3]

Thanks for the info Steve I'll keep an eye out for you.

4" stroke is enough on the side? I've got to go out an measure my top - I think I have it close to full extension with the rake on to be less aggressive, and I just bought the Pats, so I think that means I'll need to err on the long side.

Charles

 

[amigauser]

Charles

The Toplink is 18-26.5" version

The sidelink is gearmore # L2.5x4-15KB-RH which means 2.5 dia 4" stroke 15" closed length.

I am also thinking about adding just "top" to my B3030. I also have the 2 rear factory remotes and I have not used or tried them yet. Does CCM provide the hoses that go from the top cylinder to the rear remote or is that something you have to provide yourself? If I have to roll my own hoses, what type of connector is required at the tractor "remote" end?

I am curious why you purchased just the top setup from CCM but the tilt setup from Gearmore?

Thanks.

 

[hazmat]

Thanks for the info Steve I'll keep an eye out for you.

4" stroke is enough on the side? I've got to go out an measure my top - I think I have it close to full extension with the rake on to be less aggressive, and I just bought the Pats, so I think that means I'll need to err on the long side.

Charles

I don't know if 4" is enough, but you'f be hard pressed to get anything bigger in there.

I'd say the toplink is on the long side already, but you can measure your toplink at full extension to compare.

 

[hazmat]

I am also thinking about adding just "top" to my B3030. I also have the 2 rear factory remotes and I have not used or tried them yet. Does CCM provide the hoses that go from the top cylinder to the rear remote or is that something you have to provide yourself? If I have to roll my own hoses, what type of connector is required at the tractor "remote" end?

I am curious why you purchased just the top setup from CCM but the tilt setup from Gearmore?

Thanks.

You should have gotten the male sides of the quick disconnects with your tractor. CCM will sell you a hose kit for ~$50 that has the proper end on the cylinder & 1/2 NPT male for the tractor disconnect side. They are standard "pioneer" ag type or compatible - I forget the exact part number.

I went with gearmore on the sidelink because I felt I'd have trouble fitting the check valve on the B3030. I may regret the choice...