B26, L39 or 3240

[yekrut]

Sweet pictures. Thanks for those and the info. I'd like to see the Thumb and grapple as well. I'm really leaning toward the L39 for alot of the reasons you all have mentioned. Most of my initial work will be construction type projects. Couple other thoughts...
1 - Down the road I can see the need for more farm tractor type work. Brush hogging, Cultivating, Fence work. Going to eventually get some horses for the kids. Will the L39 do this type of work as well? I know the FEL is not removable.
2 - Another thought pertains to the weight of the machine. Seem fill rear tires makes the performance of the FEL and BH better but what about yard damage. Some of the planned work will be near my house around the yard. Are ruts going to be a problem? The yard is heavily shaded but has very sandy well draining soil around the house area. I rent a 334 excavator memorial day weekend. It rained a little and the rubber tracks tor the heck out of the yard (partially due to my lack of experience). The Bolens G214 weigh about 1700lbs and I don't have any problems with it. 7000lbs is quite a jump.

Builder - Did you have and problems with ruts in your yard? Nice place by the way.

 

[mike69440]

Do a search on Mike69440 for all the L39 Photo's I have posted if you want to.

You use the cluch on a GST when you want control of a few inches. I don't brake to shift in speeds below 3 or 4 and seldom run over 1900 RPM. I do hit neutral for a second or so before reversing at slower speeds. Also I suggest that you do not down shift from 10th to 5th in one shot., etc.

 

[art]

Art - That makes a lot of sense. Kinda why I started considering it. Just not sure I want to deal with the complexities of an additional piece of equipment. Wish I could just find the perfect match for both the short and long term. Suppose lots of other have struggle with the same dilemma.

Have you thought about a older used tlb like a 580 from case or a 555 ford to do the heavy work and a more practical tractor for your other chores? It might make short work of some of the larger work if tme might be an issuse.

 

[mike69440]

Have you thought about a older used tlb like a 580 from case or a 555 ford to do the heavy work and a more practical tractor for your other chores? It might make short work of some of the larger work if tme might be an issuse.

I'd agree if he stumping 200-300 stumps, but fair sized 100 stumps is about 100-200 hours work on an L39. Going get tough when they are bigger than 14-16 inches, then a full size TLB is the way to go or an excavator.

 

[Builder]

Sweet pictures. Thanks for those and the info. I'd like to see the Thumb and grapple as well. I'm really leaning toward the L39 for alot of the reasons you all have mentioned. Most of my initial work will be construction type projects. Couple other thoughts...
1 - Down the road I can see the need for more farm tractor type work. Brush hogging, Cultivating, Fence work. Going to eventually get some horses for the kids. Will the L39 do this type of work as well? I know the FEL is not removable.
2 - Another thought pertains to the weight of the machine. Seem fill rear tires makes the performance of the FEL and BH better but what about yard damage. Some of the planned work will be near my house around the yard. Are ruts going to be a problem? The yard is heavily shaded but has very sandy well draining soil around the house area. I rent a 334 excavator memorial day weekend. It rained a little and the rubber tracks tor the heck out of the yard (partially due to my lack of experience). The Bolens G214 weigh about 1700lbs and I don't have any problems with it. 7000lbs is quite a jump.

Builder - Did you have and problems with ruts in your yard? Nice place by the way.

If it was dry, no. If you drive on your yard after a rainfall has occurred, then you'll leave shallow ruts, especially with a full FEL bucket.

I just sold my L-39, but it wasn't because I disliked it, it was just too small and not getting enough use.

I had planned on buying a 7' bushog and I had hooked up my York rake to the back of it a couple times and it worked great.

I think it would be great for fencework.

You can get hydraulics to the front for ~ $800.

Don't worry about the machine itself, you'll love it and get used to it quickly.

 

[Vaulter98c]

for fencing and stuff like that, detach the BH and put a post hole digger on the 3point.

and those numbers I gave you, those were for the BH. Im reading a little over 1 ton for lifting capacity of the FEL on the L39. 4600 lbs of breakout force for the FEL. 5800lbs and 3800lbs for the BH Bucket and dipper, respectivley. And, 10foot digging depth on the BH, so less manuvering the tractor for a deep dig.

I wish I could justify the L39 for my purchase, but I can't. For you, even after all your "chores" are done, remove the BH and load up a posthole digger and go away at making fences. Attach a brush hog and your up and away for mowing. I think it is a very sound decision for you.

 

[yekrut]

Thanks All. Again lots of good info. I've talked with a couple dealer just waiting for them to get back to me.

 

[SkyPup]

L-39 Putting the Hoe Down!

 

[witel]

Another thing to consider is hydraulic power.

• L3240 has two pumps: main (8.3 gpm) and power-steering (4.9 gpm)
• L39 has three pumps: load/backhoe (11 gpm), backhoe boom swing (6.2 gpm), and power-steering (6.2 gpm)
• B26 has ??? pumps: total including power-steering = 11.2 gpm

Just something to consider depending on your use.

 

[Vaulter98c]

theres the number I wanted
1200lbs lifting power with the L39 BH
~800 with the B26

And, I didnt know the boom swing was on a differant pump. Thats really smart

 

[mike69440]

Considering how hard I use the L39 and am running the hydraulic pressure +5%, I have no compalints as I have not broken it yet this year.

Except for curl force at the extremes of bucket travel, the machine is as strong as it weight allows.

 

[The Gardener]

What is a ball park figure for the L39?
What is a ball park figure to add a hydraulic thumb?

Thanks!
The Gardener

 

[_RaT_]

Thanks for the insight. Been out all morning Brush hogging with my current tractor ( Bolens 214 - 21 HP Iseki Diesel 4x4). It came with the property but it'snot a bad little machine. Tough to get parts though. I think that will hurt mt trade or resale value. Was thinkin of trading it in but make keep it???.

Liked the GST vs HST info. Kinda confirmed my research. I guess you lose alittle PTO HP with the HST but not FEL or BH power. That sound correct?

Stumps are going to be a pain. Figured the L39 would help.

I'll have to throw so pics of the property up to kinda put the projects in perspective.

This site is great. I think the will really help my learning curve.

Thanks again all.

If you have that many stumps and they are big, I would really consider hiring it out to a industrial hoe. As great as these compact hoes are, I find the rate at which the pivots wear pretty darn fast and I grease the heck out of mine. Stumps can be pretty hard on a hoe.

 

[witel]

And, I didnt know the boom swing was on a differant pump. Thats really smart

The beefier hydraulics are one of the major L39 selling points for me.

What is a ball park figure to add a hydraulic thumb?

In my research for that ultimate L39 machine (meaning every option and then some), I had a local dealer tell me that they could weld on a hydraulic-thumb mounting bracket (similar to that seen on the B26 dipperstick), paint it Kubota-orange, and add a U25 excavator hydraulic-thumb for a couple of thousand. This scheme requires the K7770 Quick-Attach Coupler and the BTB404 Remote Valve Kit for the backhoe, which isn't cheap at a suggested list price of ~$719.00 and ~$1607.00, respectively.

 

[Builder]

What is a ball park figure for the L39?
What is a ball park figure to add a hydraulic thumb?

Thanks!
The Gardener

33-35K.

Of course you'll get the stray guy on the internet who got one for thousands less but that's the "realistic" price range. Mine was 33K back in 1/06.

Kubota, just like the other equipment/machinery companies gets you on the attachments, not so much the machine.

I wouldn't do the hydraulic thumb unless you plan on having to pick up items like a giant pair of fingers. Just get a mechanical thumb and let the B/H bucket pinch the object against the thumb. You'll spend thousands more just to make that little thumb open & close hydraulically. Now if you really have that much thumb work, then I guess it'd be worth it.

 

[witel]

I wouldn't do the hydraulic thumb unless you plan on having to pick up items like a giant pair of fingers. Just get a mechanical thumb and let the B/H bucket pinch the object against the thumb. You'll spend thousands more just to make that little thumb open & close hydraulically. Now if you really have that much thumb work, then I guess it'd be worth it.

Good feedback. I've been wondering about this very issue as well. For me, I will be moving rocks, pulling scrub-brush, moving more rocks, probably even more rocks, and I cannot forget the rocks. Oh, did I mention the rocks? These are fit-in-your-hand size to large-suitcase size rocks. So, deferring to experience, would a hydraulic-thumb or a fixed-thumb be better suited for that scenario?

 

[Builder]

Good feedback. I've been wondering about this very issue as well. For me, I will be moving rocks, pulling scrub-brush, moving more rocks, probably even more rocks, and I cannot forget the rocks. Oh, did I mention the rocks? These are fit-in-your-hand size to large-suitcase size rocks. So, deferring to experience, would a hydraulic-thumb or a fixed-thumb be better suited for that scenario?

Most thumbs are adjustable. The can be set into a pair of notches that make the thumb stick out progressively further from the backhoe boom. Some have 3 settings on them. Then you simply use the curl action of the bucket to "pinch" the object you're lifting against the thumb's serrated teeth until you have a firm grasp on the object. I would think the smaller the objects you're picking up, the more farther you set the mech thumb out off the boom. Not as versatile as a true hydraulic thumb, but like I said, you really NEED a hydraulic thumb to warrant the cost of installation.

remember, you'll need extra money for other inplements, fuel, insrance, etc.

 

[mike69440]

In my research for that ultimate L39 machine (meaning every option and then some), I had a local dealer tell me that they could weld on a hydraulic-thumb mounting bracket (similar to that seen on the B26 dipperstick), paint it Kubota-orange, and add a U25 excavator hydraulic-thumb for a couple of thousand. This scheme requires the K7770 Quick-Attach Coupler and the BTB404 Remote Valve Kit for the backhoe, which isn't cheap at a suggested list price of ~$719.00 and ~$1607.00, respectively.

Good feedback. I've been wondering about this very issue as well. For me, I will be moving rocks, pulling scrub-brush, moving more rocks, probably even more rocks, and I cannot forget the rocks. Oh, did I mention the rocks? These are fit-in-your-hand size to large-suitcase size rocks. So, deferring to experience, would a hydraulic-thumb or a fixed-thumb be better suited for that scenario?

I remember the cost being the reason I went with a mechanical thumb. My dealer welded it on as part of the deal.

Good Company, USA Attachments. See my machine on their website.
USA Attachments

132 Charles Rd

King, NC 27021

800-870-3610

A mechanical thumb is great over a range +/-2' from its ideal reach point. Out further or in closer it either is in the way or you can not grab well.

I never used a hydraulic thumb. Talk to me in two weeks regading a hydraulic, as my excavator should be on site by then.

 

[witel]

you really NEED a hydraulic thumb to warrant the cost of installation.

Boy, I'll say. I've found myself staring at some photos that Mike69440 has posted that show his fixed-thumb ... and wondering how effective it is vs. a hydraulic-thumb ... for the money. It's all pretty pricey. Thanks for the attempted corrective action.

 

[witel]

There he is. He beat me to the response!