b2400 starts, then stalls immediately

[tomf]

My B2400 starts and then immediately stalls after running one or two seconds. When it stops it sounds like a normal shutdown. When the throttle is in different positions the engine revs up appropriate to the throttle position. Started and ran perfectly about a week ago. I cleaned the fuel filter and air filter. Added more diesel. Anyone have any ideas. Thanks Tom

 

[tomf]

My B2400 starts and then immediately stalls after running one or two seconds. When it stops it sounds like a normal shutdown. When the throttle is in different positions the engine revs up appropriate to the throttle position. Started and ran perfectly about a week ago. I cleaned the fuel filter and air filter. Added more diesel. Anyone have any ideas. Thanks Tom

 

[BCNU]

You may have have alowed air in the system when you cleaned out your fuel filter. Try bleeding your fuel system. Good luck!!

 

[BCNU]

You may have have alowed air in the system when you cleaned out your fuel filter. Try bleeding your fuel system. Good luck!!

 

[B2400]

There is a selenoid on the back of the injection pump which controls the fuel for start up and shut down. I would check it first to see if it is staying energized( held open) after the ignition key is turned on. If for some reason it only opens for a moment then deenergizes it will do exactly what your stating. Check for constant voltage first before you remove it from back of pump!

 

[B2400]

There is a selenoid on the back of the injection pump which controls the fuel for start up and shut down. I would check it first to see if it is staying energized( held open) after the ignition key is turned on. If for some reason it only opens for a moment then deenergizes it will do exactly what your stating. Check for constant voltage first before you remove it from back of pump!

 

[tomf]

Thanks for your reply. The fuse to the fuel cutoff solenoid is burning out after every attempt to start it. It burns out when the key is switched to the ON position. Probably the other positions as well.

I've checked the lead terminal voltage. It reads 12 volts, exactly where it should read.

I've also tested the Fuel Cutoff Solenoid resistance. It measured high, 2.5 ohms vs the expected 1.5 ohms. Would this be enough to blow a 5 amp fuse?

I also attempted to test the solenoid by running current straight from the battery. I did not hear anything that would indicate the plunger being retracted. I'm not sure I ran this test correctly.

I also did a cursory check of the wiring. No obvious breaks.

So my question is: do I replace the fuel cutoff solenoid (which appears to be easy) or do I spend more effort checking the wiring (which is very difficult to access)?

Thanks Tom

 

[ewoz]

<<I've also tested the Fuel Cutoff Solenoid resistance. It measured high, 2.5 ohms vs the expected 1.5 ohms. Would this be enough to blow a 5 amp fuse? >>

If your battery voltage was 12.5 Volts and your solenoid resistane was 2.5 Ohms you would draw 5 Amps. If the solenoid resistane is supposed to be 1.5 Ohms it would draw 8 amps when the battery is 12 Volts. I am thinking the solenoid is not serviced with the 5 Amp fuse that keeps blowing. I would try to determine what the 5 Amp fuse powers.

 

[tomf]

I have the wiring diagram. It clearly shows the 5 amp fuse wired to the fuel cut off solenoid. The fuse is labeled Key Stop. Thanks Tom

 

[wushaw]

I would disconnect the fuel solonoid then put a fuse back in the spot that keeps blowing to see if it still blows.
If it does then check your ign switch and wiring.
Also ohm out the non-power side of that fuse to check the resistance.

 

[ewoz]

You said that the expected resistance of that solenoid was 1.5 Ohms. Where did you get that information?

 

[tomf]

Info comes from the Workshop Manual Tactor for B2400 page 9-S13

 

[tomf]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I would disconnect the fuel solonoid then put a fuse back in the spot that keeps blowing to see if it still blows.
If it does then check your ign switch and wiring. )</font>

Already did this. With the solenoid disconnected the fuse does not blow, and the engine turns over but does not start. With a blown fuse and the solenoid connected, when the key is turned to the start position, the engine turns over, starts, and then dies immediately when the key is turned from the start position to the on position (during which the starter is disengaged).

I don't understand how the solenoid is powered if the fuse is blown. Why does the fuel flow at all if there is no power to the solenoid. Remember the fuse is blown. Is there some other mechanism that allows fuel to flow when the key is in the start position?

Thanks Tom

 

[wushaw]

Not that I'm aware of.
Your blowing the fuse with the fuel solonoid connected means to me a fuel solonoid should be changed.

 

[tomf]

I concur. I pulled the solenoid. Then I hooked it up to the battery to see if the plunger would operate. It did not. Also the wires entering the solenoid appeared odd. Perhaps melted?? And I could see bare wire if I bent the wires.

I'm going to get a new solenoid. I'll see if that fixes the problem.

If anyone has any other input please feel free to let me know. I'm not overly confident that its a bad solenoid. It appears to be the most likely candidate right now. I'll continue to update this post.

Thanks for everyones' help. Tom

 

[Pks]

That solenoid is about $130. If you have the workshop manual, it will give you all the ohm values you need to determine if it's bad. ...sounds like it is bad!

When mine died, the engine would only run when the key was in the start position.

 

[tomf]

Peter, Did your fuse blow when you attempted to start? I already checked the resistance.

For terminal 3 to terminal 2, the resistance measured .3 ohms vs the book value of approx .4 ohms.
For terminal 1 to terminal 2, the measured 2.5 vs the book value of approx 1.5. I measured it again later and the resistance was 1.7 ohms

The resistance seems to be in range. Which is why I'm not confident that the solenoid is bad.

However the solenoid fails the Fuel cut off solenoid test. When I run power directly from the battery to the solenoid, the plunger is not attracted. According to the manual this means the solenoid is faulty.

My question is Would a faulty solenoid cause the fuse to blow?

Thanks Tom

 

[tomf]

Problem solved. Replaced the solenoid. Starts perfectly.

One note. I checked the resistance of the new solenoid. It measured 12 ohms. This does not agree with the manual. The manual says approx 1.5 ohms. I'm guessing the manual is in error. Probably should read approx 11.5 ohmns. This makes sense. because Amps = volts/ohms. 12volts/12 omhs = 1 amp. 12 volts/1.5 omhs = 8 amps. Remember I was reading about 2.3 ohmns which would be greater than 5 amps. Actually I took several readings and the actual resistance varied from about 1.8 to 2.5 ohms.

Well anyway replacing the solenoid fixed the problem. Thanks for everyones' help. Tom