B2320 DT - 400 hr self-service?

Normal Bill · Mar 1, 2014

I'm getting close to the 400 hours on my B2320 DT. I'm nervous about the transmission/hydraulic fluid change.

I like to do everything myself on all my vehicles as much as possible. But, I'm almost thinking about sending it to the dealer for this. Changing oil on a vehicle means quarts but this means gallons??!! It also seems so critical to the operation of the machine as it involves transmission, FEL, 3PT etc.

What do you think? Is it easy enough or is it better to send it out? I would appreciate any advice.

AStanton · Mar 1, 2014

It's not rocket science: go low and slow. Look at the factory recommended capacities for the fluids then refill using lower amounts. You are better off under-filling, then over filling. Start the tractor, let it run, then turn it off checking the levels.
It might be warming up in our neck of the woods soon. Buy the filters and fluids now, then wait for a day when it hits 50 degrees.
Good luck.

sandyc · Mar 1, 2014

It was -2 this morning! When you change the hst fluid make sure you pay attention to the drain plugs. If memory serves there are three. Some folks put red paint on the heads of the plugs so they can id them in the future.....sounds like a good idea but I forgot when I did mine. I use a mortar mixing trough I got at Lowes. There are/were two sizes..I got the larger one just to make sure the 4 gallons would not over flow the pan. Also it sits between the tires.
There are two filters for the hst. They are different sizes so pay attention to the ones you take off and match up the new ones to the old ones. Some folks have had problems with the filters being hard to get off as they were painted along with the engine. A strap filter wrench (large) will handle that. After I put on the filters and tightened up the plugs I added 3.5 gallons of super ud2 fluid, started the tractor and let it warm up at idle. After it warmed up I shut it off and checked the level and filled it to the top level. Oh, on the 2012 2620 there is no strainer to clean. Our transfer station takes the spent fluid which is a great help as 4 gallons is a bit much to dispose of.

Good luck and enjoy.

Will_C · Mar 1, 2014

If you change oil and filters on your cars, you can service your tractor. I am not a mechanic by any means, but I have always done those services on my 3 Kubotas. Follow the manual and take your time-you'll be fine.

Will

JOHNTHOMAS · Mar 2, 2014

If you do it yourself one time and then have a dealer do it the next time you will be kicking yourself from then on for paying what they will charge. It's simple to do. They also don't have their highest paid mechanic do it unless they only have one mechanic. They usually have the trainee or new guy do it or other mechanics do it while working on other equipment.
As has been mentioned, get catch trays big enough to hold the amount coming out. The filters are installed by a gorilla so get ready to apply leverage to get them broke loose. Have dealer mark the filters to know for sure which is oil and which is hyd fluid. Look at some change it yourself threads here and go forth an conquer. It will also help you have a better understanding and relationship with your tractor.:thumbsup:

Paystar · Mar 2, 2014

It's very simple to do your service. But the owners and shop manuals don't give very precise details or pics. Here's what I found for draining the trans/hydro on my B2620HSD. Pic #1 is what both manuals correctly show.

Pic#2 is the 12mm I removed which is a gasketed drain plug. Manuals show you to remove the 14mm housing bolt which is just ahead of it.

Pic#3 and 4 are the 12mm drain on the right side. Again, manuals show it as that 14mm housing bolt to the right of the actual drain plug.
Pay attention to the gasket washers.....mine were painted on and didn't look like there was any, but one fell off into the drain pan as it was draining.

Pic 5 is the engine oil pan drain plug. Manual shows a double sump oil pan with two drains, mine only has a single with one plug.

Paystar · Mar 2, 2014

Here's a couple more pics of the 50 hour service. I just use a regular auto drain pan for the engine and front axle.
Just be careful threading the new engine oil filter back on so you don't cross thread it because the rad hose rubs on it. Not real bad, but it does add minor resistance.

And as you can see the trans/hydro filters are very easy to get at. I've heard stories of how tight some are on due to the paint, but mine came off easily.
I use the drain pan from an old dehumidifier for that. Had it for my diesel pickups.

Also note.......the owners manual says to just change trans/hydro filters at 50 hour first service and I see some people on here do leave the oil in. But the Shop manual says oil MUST be changed at 50 hours. And I wouldn't want to leave the break-in oil in there for 200 or 400 hours.

Normal Bill · Mar 2, 2014

I'm learning a lot already. Thank you all. I'm already experienced with oil change for this tractor. I've been right on schedule ( ....and I really love the way they packed the oil filter into an area where you're guaranteed to make a mess ... oh and trying to open the drain plug and get the oil to pour neatly through the hole in the loader subframe is a good time too

)

Transmission/ hydraulic is what scares me the most.

Normal Bill · Mar 2, 2014

Thank you for the pictures Paystar.:thumbsup: This will be useful for me.

Paystar · Mar 2, 2014

What model is the DT billrjr? Is that the manual transmission? If so your drains may be different?

vetteman46 · Mar 2, 2014

Hi, All.

I also have a B2320DT. The DT suffix designates a manual gear shift, so the HST drain plugs are going to be different. I'm only at 24 hours on my machine (new in November '13) and so haven't had to perform the 50-hour service but I'm following this thread with interest, knowing that my first service will happen fairly soon.

Mike

HillStreet · Mar 2, 2014

billrjr,

Not a difficult job at all, and my B2320 is my first real tractor. What helped me was to read the manual and get under the machine to scope it out before I got the tools out.

I did goof up the hydraulic fluid change as I missed one of the 3 drain plugs. The drain fluid in the catch pan just did not look like it was enough so I got back under to explore and find it. I made notes in my manual as to location and size.

Get a good drain pan, plenty of shop towels, and have fun. Don't be in a hurry because you probably should do other PM while you are under there---grease, adjust, etc.

HillStreet · Mar 2, 2014

Just remembered one more thing. I have watched a lot of Kubota maintenance segments on youtube. Just google and you'll find plenty. Some of my favorites are a guy that calls himself "serviceman vic" or something like that, the site might be "orange tractor" something something.

vetteman46 · Mar 3, 2014

HillStreet said:
Just remembered one more thing. I have watched a lot of Kubota maintenance segments on youtube. Just google and you'll find plenty. Some of my favorites are a guy that calls himself "serviceman vic" or something like that, the site might be "orange tractor" something something.

Yes, a great resource. I don't remember whether Vic specifically covers the B2320 (probably not) but it is a very informative series of videos on YouTube. Track it down on Google. It's worth the effort.

Mike

ackerrj · Mar 3, 2014

vetteman46 said:
Yes, a great resource. I don't remember whether Vic specifically covers the B2320 (probably not) but it is a very informative series of videos on YouTube. Track it down on Google. It's worth the effort.

Mike

I did my B2320HST 50 hr svc just before fall. The YouTube videos were very helpful. I did not find much on the B2320, but the 2620 and 2920 are very similar, and there were some good ones on them.

I replaced the gaskets on all the drain plugs... Cheap insurance.

Don't over tighten he drain plugs (aluminum pan)... I was told just slightly past hand tight.

Recoveryhill · Mar 3, 2014

Changing hydraulic fluid and filters at 400 hours may be the 800 pound gorilla in the room, but pay attention to the other requirements.

Wheel bolt torque
Loader frame bolt torque
fan belt condition
Clutch adjust
Brake adjust
Fuel Filter replace
Air filter (s) check or replace
Engine oil/filter replace
Coolant Flush and replace
Toe-in adjust
Tire condition and air pressure
Front axle (4WD) fluid change
Grease of course, wherever there are fittings and don't forget the two front axle fittings if you have a 4wd.

None of this is technically challenging, it just takes a few tools, some time and a willingness to get a bit dirty.

ericher69 · Mar 3, 2014

ackerrj said:
I replaced the gaskets on all the drain plugs... Cheap insurance. Don't over tighten he drain plugs (aluminum pan)... I was told just slightly past hand tight.

What gaskets? There are 3 drain plugs and that's it! No gaskets.

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oldballs · Mar 3, 2014

ericher69 said:
What gaskets? There are 3 drain plugs and that's it! No gaskets.

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IIRC, the drain plugs have copper washer/gaskets that some people replace. I didn't think it was necessary at that time...IIRC.

Tractorrr · Mar 3, 2014

One thing to remember is not to overtighten the drain plug as this could strip the threads. I had to get a new drain plug after I found out the previous drain plug would not even go on hand tight before starting to spin.

lawn_king · Mar 3, 2014

Apply never seize to the new hydro filters before you put them on! I went through an AWFUL day on my 3540 removing my old hydraulic filter, i broke two filter wrenches and bent a screwdriver in half trying to remove it. I finally had to cut the filter in half with a saws all, it was not fun! This was the second complete hydraulic service i have perfomed on this machine! Many members have experienced a tough time removing the hydro filters on kubotas, im sure the never sieze will make it a lot less painful when this service comes due again!