Attaching wedge to beam: Best method??

Shield Arc · Mar 14, 2014

That wood isn't much of a work out for the splitter. It looks like the Alder we have here. You can cut these Adler trees to length. Let them lay for about 3-days, walk through with the blunt end of an ax and split them.

LD1 · Mar 14, 2014

Yea, I know it was easy splitting stuff. Makes the splitter look good. But The video was really to show the method of splitting with the table and with the wedge on the beam. How the split pieces fall off, ones that need to go again just get slid back around, etc.

merlynr · Mar 14, 2014

This wedge is sitting on top of the beam at the end with another piece of I beam standing up behind it and welded to the wedge and the end of beam and to the tongue of chassis. My friend and I build this about 4 yrs ago and added the log lift last year.

muddstopper · Mar 14, 2014

How I did mine

LD1 · Mar 15, 2014

Got the wedge done.

Now to find time for everything else...

LD1 · Mar 17, 2014

If anyone is still following this, I am underway on the build and started a new thread.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/305998-my-logsplitter-build.html#post3705679

arrow · Mar 21, 2014

LD1 said:
If anyone is still following this, I am underway on the build and started a new thread.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/305998-my-logsplitter-build.html#post3705679

This method of attachment has worked since 1998. People usually look at me with a cocked head in the way I do things but this table has also worked even if it comes from the Fred Flintstone Academy. I loved going there.

CDN Farm Boy · Jan 26, 2015

muddstopper said:
How I did mine

I know this thread is pushing a year old but do you have any more pics of your wedge from other angles? And how you connected it to the cyl? I've been having a similar thought to what you did for an up-coming processor build. Anything you'd do differently?

LD1 · Jan 26, 2015

I can probably take some more pictures tomorrow, but what are you looking for specifically that isnt pictured?

The cylinder is just a pin. The base end had two "bars" welded to it that are on either side of the anchor block. Kinda like a yoke but not a forged piece.

There isnt anything at this time that I would change.

CDN Farm Boy · Jan 26, 2015

I was actually looking at muddstopper's adjustable wedge. Seems like a simple way to get 2-4-6 options.

I do like they way that you've got your wedge and cyl mount tied into the beam. You already having asked the question saves me from even having to consider it. :thumbsup:

LD1 · Jan 27, 2015

CDN Farm Boy said:
I was actually looking at muddstopper's adjustable wedge. Seems like a simple way to get 2-4-6 options.

I do like they way that you've got your wedge and cyl mount tied into the beam. You already having asked the question saves me from even having to consider it. :thumbsup:

I didnt see that you quoted mudstopper.:mur:

Lack of sleep when I posted that i guess. :laughing: Was out all night and day Plowing the white stuff we got.

CDN Farm Boy · Jan 27, 2015

You got snow? I'm at a record low of clearing my lane twice so far this season. I'm usually up to 10-12 by now.

I'm hoping we get beat on for the rest of the winter. I gambled and didn't take my snow contract this year and the way its looking I'd have made out quite nicely with so few hrs behind the wheel

LD1 · Jan 27, 2015

Yep, Got 3-4" in columbus (where I plow).

This is the 3rd plowable even of the season. Once back in november, then 1/6 and 1/26.

Last year I was out 6 times for the season.

Usually end up with 1-2 plows before the new year. Then 3-5 jan-march.

Alot of times it snows, we just dont get enough to go play. Or if its warmer (near freezing) they will pre-salt burn most of it off. Cheaper than paying alot of plow trucks

muddstopper · Jan 28, 2015

these are all the pics I have uploaded of the wedge. You asked what I would do different, well I did make one change. If you look at the wedge support, I welded a guide to the support for the wedge to slide up and down in. I figured this would help keep the blade lined up with its backbone. What it did was become a catch for every little splinter that slid by it. Slivers of wood would get wedged between the blade and the guides and keep it stuck all the time. I removed those guides and welded them to the blade, Now the splinters cant get wedged and no more stuck blade. As for the 2-4-6 way split. The blade will raise 12inces. The bottom wings sits at the top of the hbeam so that the top wing acts as a 4way. I can raise the wedge up 6 inches and now have a 6 way, or I can raise it 12 inches and slide a 12 log under the wings for a 2way split. The bottom wing in fully raised postion will be in the center of a 24in dia round and require resplitting the bottom two halves, but most wood I just center the blade for 6 even splits and dont have to any resplits. My processor will have a 12way blade and function pretty much the same as my current 6way. With wedge at bottom lift, 12in and under round will pass thru the center circle for a 4way split. Depending on the size of the round I should be able to center up on up to a 27in dia round and have 12 even size splits. Anything over 27in wont pass thru the saw frame so it wont make it to the wedge.

CDN Farm Boy · Jan 28, 2015

Thanks mud, very helpful. Especially that first pic. I had noticed that about the side guides being on the back and you confirmed what I thought. With it a truly floating wedge, it would be easy enough to swap it out for an 8 or 12 way if the logs were big enough to need it and avoid the resplits.

Willie B · Jan 29, 2015

Mine is 32 years of good service now. The beam was made up of two layers of mobile home frame welded together top and bottom, On this I laid a 5/8" x 6" plate which was securely welded to the beam. A pie shaped piece of 5/8" hot rolled was laid on the plate and securely welded. this triangle was small enough to clear the toe of the weld. the wedge was formed by two 10" tall x 1/4" plates arranged to make a wedge shape, one was longer, and lapped past the other. These were welded to each other and the beam inside and out. A series of pie shaped 1/4" were added inside the wedge horizontal. It was capped with top and back, ground smooth. The lap by at the cutting edge was cut to shape with acetylene torch, and ground to a sharp edge.