Anyone have a solution to eradicating moles ??

[tstex]

Since owning and operating ranch for last 30 yrs, the moles have really taken-off around the 2-acre house area. I use cinch traps for gophers and have caught 100's of them and have them under control; the moles I do not.

Looking for solutions that one person can implement to start knocking out these pests. I know they are moles, not voles or gophers...I really would appreciate your help and suggestions on any means you have been able to successfully eradicate them. Thank you very much !!

 

[AndyMA]

Since owning and operating ranch for last 30 yrs, the moles have really taken-off around the 2-acre house area. I use cinch traps for gophers and have caught 100's of them and have them under control; the moles I do not.

Looking for solutions that one person can implement to start knocking out these pests. I know they are moles, not voles or gophers...I really would appreciate your help and suggestions on any means you have been able to successfully eradicate them. Thank you very much !!

These are pretty effective.

Zoro Select Mole Trap Plunger, Mechanical 32J091 | Zoro

Order Zoro Select Mole Trap Plunger, Mechanical, 32J091 at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.

www.zoro.com

 

[Eagle1]

I had a Great Pyrenees that did a number on them but her 4' wide and 2' holes were way more of a problem than the moles.....

 

[tstex]

thanks, I have had one of those type traps from Victor, prob bought it 25 yrs ago. Have only caught one and do the set-up to spec. We have really sandy loam soil here and the mole pushing up many times will not spring the trap...thanks again

 

[Gator6x4]

Spray your yard for GRUBS. The moles or voles chase the GRUBS. Skunks and Coons will also dig them up and leave round circular holes.

grub spray for lawns - Google Search

 

[MossRoad]

thanks, I have had one of those type traps from Victor, prob bought it 25 yrs ago. Have only caught one and do the set-up to spec. We have really sandy loam soil here and the mole pushing up many times will not spring the trap...thanks again

I have a lot of experience with moles, as documented several times here on TBN over the years.

Over 300 in 6 years on 1 acre. Yep. You read that right. Then they finally got down to just a couple a year.

In the past, I've always recommended the Victor Out O Sight mole trap. However, in the past couple of years, there has apparently been a change to the spring tension, and they are not getting good reviews anymore. Too weak to work. The original ones will darn near break your finger. If you can find them, they are the best.

2nd best is the one you have.

If you don't already know, don't try and trap the mounds. That doesn't work. That's a place where the moles push soil UP to clear their tunnels. Pushing UP triggers the trap well before the mole gets there.

If you see an area that looks like a wrinkled up carpet all over the place, don't try and trap there, either. It's too random.

The only place to try and set a trap is across an active tunnel.

Find the tunnels in your yard, then use your heel to press down a spot every so often. Then check your heel marks every day. If a heel mark gets pushed back up, that's an active tunnel and a good place to concentrate.

I like to buy a bundle of the little marking flags at Lowe's that have about a foot of wire and a little flag. That helps me to relocate my heel marks VS walking all over the place. The neighbors might be concerned you're laying out new construction, though.

Once you've located an active tunnel, you need to find out how far down under the soil the tunnel is. Take a small garden trowel and cut out about a 3" slice from the tunnel and expose both ends of the tunnel. So you'll have an open U-channel with a hole at each side.

Take the plug of sod that you dug out and put it at the bottom of the trench, so that it lays flat across the U-Channel and blocks just a bit of the side tunnel openings.

Now set your trap across the tunnel so the trigger pan is flush against the top of the sod plug. When the mole comes through from either side, it will encounter the sod plug blocking the tunnel, and try to go under it, pushing the plug up against the trigger and POP that should get it.

 

[MossRoad]

As far as grubs and insects go, yes, moles eat those, but their primary source of food is earthworms. Do not treat for grubs if you don't have grubs. I you do have grubs, you'll see yellowed out patches of dead grass, you can dig up the soil and see if they are there. If you don't see lawn damage and can't find any grubs, you don't have grubs.

 

[Gator6x4]

I have a lot of experience with moles, as documented several times here on TBN over the years.

Over 300 in 6 years on 1 acre. Yep. You read that right. Then they finally got down to just a couple a year.

In the past, I've always recommended the Victor Out O Sight mole trap. However, in the past couple of years, there has apparently been a change to the spring tension, and they are not getting good reviews anymore. Too weak to work. The original ones will darn near break your finger. If you can find them, they are the best.

2nd best is the one you have.

If you don't already know, don't try and trap the mounds. That doesn't work. That's a place where the moles push soil UP to clear their tunnels. Pushing UP triggers the trap well before the mole gets there.

If you see an area that looks like a wrinkled up carpet all over the place, don't try and trap there, either. It's too random.

The only place to try and set a trap is across an active tunnel.

Find the tunnels in your yard, then use your heel to press down a spot every so often. Then check your heel marks every day. If a heel mark gets pushed back up, that's an active tunnel and a good place to concentrate.

I like to buy a bundle of the little marking flags at Lowe's that have about a foot of wire and a little flag. That helps me to relocate my heel marks VS walking all over the place. The neighbors might be concerned you're laying out new construction, though.

Once you've located an active tunnel, you need to find out how far down under the soil the tunnel is. Take a small garden trowel and cut out about a 3" slice from the tunnel and expose both ends of the tunnel. So you'll have an open U-channel with a hole at each side.

Take the plug of sod that you dug out and put it at the bottom of the trench, so that it lays flat across the U-Channel and blocks just a bit of the side tunnel openings.

Now set your trap across the tunnel so the trigger pan is flush against the top of the sod plug. When the mole comes through from either side, it will encounter the sod plug blocking the tunnel, and try to go under it, pushing the plug up against the trigger and POP that should get it.

If I had killed 300 moles in NC they would have me charged with 300 counts of Molecide.

“Since the star-nosed moles are a rare species, all moles are protected species in North Carolina.”

 

[MossRoad]

An excellent source of information about moles and mole control..

Mole control, biology and trapping help, 1986, professional, author, tom schmidt | The Mole Man

moleman, mole trapping, mole control, moles, trapping, mole biology, 1986, professional, author, tom schmidt

themoleman.com

 

[MossRoad]

thanks, I have had one of those type traps from Victor, prob bought it 25 yrs ago. Have only caught one and do the set-up to spec. We have really sandy loam soil here and the mole pushing up many times will not spring the trap...thanks again

I have sandy soil as well. Use a plug of sod, weed roots, etc. You can also make the trigger pan larger by pop-riveting a canning jar lid to it.