Anyone have a clean way to drain the antifreeze out of a GC engine block?

[rossn]

The owners manual mentions annual coolant change, and directs you to a hose, which seems to only drain the radiator. Draining the block seems to require removal of a plug on the side of a block, but it's definitely a messy process as the coolant runs down the block, axle, frame, and everything else in the vicinity.

Is there a better way to do this?

GC1705

 

[mrmikey]

Any chance you could screw a threaded fitting with a short hose on it to redirect the flow, the plug is probably a pipe thread. Even if not, I imagine you could find a fitting that will lightly thread in there temporarily. Is there a possibility to replace the plug with a small valve of some sort for future changes? Use a shop vac to pull a vacuum on the cooling system while you play around with the fittings to stop leaking everywhere.

 

[Hay Dude]

Consider using the pink AF for anti-cavitation.

 

[Moonshot]

Perhaps a lip made of RTV under the drain will allow a funnel to capture the mess? I will be trying this on mine soon.

 

[ray66v]

It's like changing the hydraulic oil, you can not remove all of it easily.

Pull the lower radiator hose, and that will get most of it.

What little is left in the block is still good anyway after only a year, and will be diluted by the new antifreeze.

The annual coolant replacement recommendation never made any sense anyway.

 

[rossn]

Any chance you could screw a threaded fitting with a short hose on it to redirect the flow, the plug is probably a pipe thread. Even if not, I imagine you could find a fitting that will lightly thread in there temporarily. Is there a possibility to replace the plug with a small valve of some sort for future changes? Use a shop vac to pull a vacuum on the cooling system while you play around with the fittings to stop leaking everywhere.

The thought of putting a valve on there is a good one, though it would be tiny, and would need to hold up to the heat OK. Similarly, I suppose putting some sort of nipple with a section of tubing and a valve on the end of that might be an option. However, that plug is super small... like 3/8" or less (I didn't take the time to check). Those approaches would need to be super robust, as I wouldn't want a failure from pressure/temperature/vibration that could lead to a fluid loss and overheating of the engine. The vacuum is an interesting idea, though the thought of fighting liquid and gravity.... I feel that might be challenging.

Consider using the pink AF for anti-cavitation.

Mainly, I'm looking for a less messy way to change the fluid.

Perhaps a lip made of RTV under the drain will allow a funnel to capture the mess? I will be trying this on mine soon.

I was wondering if some sort of gasket funnel like you suggest might do the trick. Very interested to hear how this goes..

It's like changing the hydraulic oil, you can not remove all of it easily.

Pull the lower radiator hose, and that will get most of it.

What little is left in the block is still good anyway after only a year, and will be diluted by the new antifreeze.

The annual coolant replacement recommendation never made any sense anyway.

Any idea how much is left if the lower radiator hose is pulled? Is that less messy?

It gets me a little how the manufacturer engineers don't approach design considering orientation of oil filters or fluid draining from the vehicle. I think my car has the oil filter upside down.

Yes, the annual coolant change is a bit troublesome when non-diesels are now going a decade or more. All that I could gather from conversation here on TBN is that they are concerned about the additives leaning out quickly in the diesel engine. If it wasn't for the block draining mess, it could be pretty quick and easy.

 

[RjCorazza]

I remove the lower radiator hose and call the block good. What little that may be left in the block is not an issue with a regularly maintained system and the same coolant chemistry being replaced.
On many newer coolant systems there is the added benefit of not messing with the cheap plastic valve on the bottom of many radiators.
One of my diesel zero turns has a triangular piece of metal that is purpose built to deflect engine oil when changing the filter. It also has a metal petcock for draining the block coolant. Those are the ONLY engineered conveniences I have ever seen for coolant and oil changing.
Really though... It doesn't take much to hose the machine down when done.

 

[MTGreen]

I usually pull the thermostat and flush all the old coolant and sediment out of the block and water pump with a hose after draining so everything will get rinsed thoroughly and immediately anyways so not long enough to dry and leave residue

 

[ray66v]

Any idea how much is left if the lower radiator hose is pulled? Is that less messy?

It gets me a little how the manufacturer engineers don't approach design considering orientation of oil filters or fluid draining from the vehicle. I think my car has the oil filter upside down.

Yes, the annual coolant change is a bit troublesome when non-diesels are now going a decade or more. All that I could gather from conversation here on TBN is that they are concerned about the additives leaning out quickly in the diesel engine. If it wasn't for the block draining mess, it could be pretty quick and easy.

It's a sub compact tractor. There simply isn't the room to do things the way we would like. Compromises are required.

There are also budget constraints on these. If they did it all the best way possible, it would be a lot more expensive.

Pulling the radiator hose is a little messy, but it drains fast once it's off, and it can mostly be contained with a drain pan.

The block isn't that big, what is left in there, and a little on the top by the thermostat, isn't a lot.

I don't change mine annually anymore, it just doesn't make sense. What comes out even after 3 years, is as clean as new. If it's a quality product it certainly lasts longer than a year.

 

[not2old]

Anytime I want to drain and refill any cooling system, I drain and refill with water several times until I'm sure all the old coolant is gone. Use a little extra antifreeze when refilling to compensate for the water left in the motor.