any toro groundsmaster fans on here?

[Xfaxman]

Never had the old style, so don't know.

If you don't want to spend the time to remove the baffles, you can spend the money and order a new baffle kit.

Have you bolted the old deck to either machine yet?

I don't see the brackets on the decks and don't know if the snow blower brackets are the same. Cant see the front of the 322D, it may have them.

These are the brackets (from an eBay ad):

 

[MultiMow]

Would like more details and pictures of the 4wd. I need that on my TORO+Loader.

I wonder if the cruise control is aftermarket?

I noticed the speed control kit was listed in optional equipment sections in one of the manuals I downloaded... not sure which one though. It does look aftermarket, but Toro was known for resourcing optional equipment through other brands... much like the beloved flail decks (I can't remember who produced them).

 

[MultiMow]

Got the donor deck pulled in the shop and all the mouse nesting material removed from around the top of the spindles. Have everything soaking in penetrating oil.

View attachment 574799

You can see the baffling and under deck rollers on these newer model 30722 decks.

Can anyone speak to the cut quality between the older and newer style decks? Is it worth cutting all this stuff out and welding it into the new shell?

The cut quality will be about the same on side discharge... very slight improvement in long grass on the newer ones. It's worth noting that my leading edge was siezed, and I couldn't adjust the height. I'm sure this would've made an improvement on the older deck. I sold it before I had the time to fix it. The rear discharge had the best cut quality, in my opinion... having only seen on in action once.... but they are harder on belts and use slightly more power.

Most of your cut quality will come down to blade selection. Just stick with an OEM spec replacement, standard high-lift. The Oregon high lift blades work well, and they're wider, giving more material to sharpen and lasting longer... but the OEM blades seem to lift the grass better, for a more level cut. I've had two side discharge decks in the last two years.

At any rate, the cut quality will be so close... you'll have to be right on it to tell the difference, or have a long stretch to see the way the grass lays different on the trim side. The only time you'll see a huge difference is with finer blade grass. In that case, you will DEFINITELY want the newer style deck with the baffles. If you have, or even think about improving your lawn with a higher grade turf grass... go through the trouble of switching it out.

 

[jrsavoie]

This is what I have on the computer for starters. I can try to get more pics

Any help or suggestions on properly mounting this snowblower?

They have the arms over extended and 2" thick blocks on the bottom. There is a 1" block on top.

The drive shaft seems to be overextended. They said they installed the blocks to get higher lift.

There are no chains to properly hang the snow blower and I see no where to attach them.

My plan is to remove the blocks. Make a new piece for the top - that is shorter if the snowblower need to be rolled back.

I was thinking about replacing the 2" spacers with 1/4" or 3/16" thick spacers - a little oversized in one direction - with a hole to attach the chains to.

I also have a set of adjustable wheels to install on each side to keep from sinking in the gravel.

I am also looking for opinions on value. Before I fixed the rear axle bushing and bi-directional clutch I had advertised the 1998 Toro Groundsmaster 325D for $5999. with the snowblower and the 72" mulching deck.

I have put enough into the machine that I would now be losing money if I now sold for that amount.

Then there is the fact that I really like the machine for blowing snow. I've never had a cab before. Much less a heated cab. If we sell, we will get a lot of snow this year and need the extra mower next summer. If we do not sell, we will not get any snow and probably will not need the extra mower next summer.

As far as I know, all the machine needs is a little welding on the deck, Either the wheels or the original skids and the chain hangers installed on the snowblower and a coolant leak in the cab fixed - I am hoping it is not the heater core.

I have 2 guys that want to buy it for the asking price, But I am reluctant to sell it now. after the repairs. for that money. I am not sure if I have to much invested now or if I have it priced too cheap after the repairs. 10-15-2018 1,799.8 hours

 

[MultiMow]

Any help or suggestions on properly mounting this snowblower?

They have the arms over extended and 2" thick blocks on the bottom. There is a 1" block on top.

The drive shaft seems to be overextended. They said they installed the blocks to get higher lift.

There are no chains to properly hang the snow blower and I see no where to attach them.

My plan is to remove the blocks. Make a new piece for the top - that is shorter if the snowblower need to be rolled back.

I was thinking about replacing the 2" spacers with 1/4" or 3/16" thick spacers - a little oversized in one direction - with a hole to attach the chains to.

I also have a set of adjustable wheels to install on each side to keep from sinking in the gravel.

I am also looking for opinions on value. Before I fixed the rear axle bushing and bi-directional clutch I had advertised the 1998 Toro Groundsmaster 325D for $5999. with the snowblower and the 72" mulching deck.

I have put enough into the machine that I would now be losing money if I now sold for that amount.

Then there is the fact that I really like the machine for blowing snow. I've never had a cab before. Much less a heated cab. If we sell, we will get a lot of snow this year and need the extra mower next summer. If we do not sell, we will not get any snow and probably will not need the extra mower next summer.

As far as I know, all the machine needs is a little welding on the deck, Either the wheels or the original skids and the chain hangers installed on the snowblower and a coolant leak in the cab fixed - I am hoping it is not the heater core.

I have 2 guys that want to buy it for the asking price, But I am reluctant to sell it now. after the repairs. for that money. I am not sure if I have to much invested now or if I have it priced too cheap after the repairs. 10-15-2018 1,799.8 hours

Well... let's break it down:

$2,500 is a bottom dollar price for well maintained/operating 325-4wd with less than 3,000hrs and a mulching deck... knock $200 off for the smaller standard drive tires, and you're looking at $2,300+/-

An OEM snowblower is great working condition is worth $800-$1,200... provided the chute control and everything still works as it should. I'd figure $500- $800 for your modified unit, if all works well.

With a functioning fan, heat, and light kit... the cab adds about $1,000 to the unit price. They sell for that separately on a quick sale, and can go up to $1,500.

On a quick sale, I'd say you have $4,100 worth of equipment there. $4,500 if you want to drag it out.

I wouldn't bother "fixing" the blower if all the functions can be made to work as-is.

 

[Asymair95]

Multimow,
I live in the Northeast and have fescue type lawn I believe. Would I need the baffle installed for this type of grass?

 

[Asymair95]

Made good progress on the deck today.



Used a grinder and knotted wire wheel to remove all the rust and loose paint on the good deck.



Will be using por15 on the bottom of the deck and inside the spindle wells where rust is the worst. The rest of the deck will be getting good old rustoleum primer and paint.



Finished stripping the parts deck down. Used a cutting disc on several bolts that didn’t want to come off.





This is what ultimately doomed this deck. The rot around the spindles was pretty bad.

I’m in the process of cutting the baffling and under deck rollers out of the parts deck. It’s proving to be a challenge, like I thought it would.

 

[Asymair95]

Spent several hours on the deck today getting everything swapped over from the parts deck. Never wanted a plasma cutter so bad in my life!





Had to cut the whole backside of the deck to get at the welds to remove the wheel mounts and baffling.





Baffling and wheel mounts being welded into the old style deck.





Discovered another difference between the old and new style decks. The newer decks had a hole drilled in the deck to allow a grease zerk to poke through so you could grease it from the top side. My old deck did not have this hole drilled, so I had to drill one.





Cut off the front roller from the other parts deck I have. This deck is also rotted out.



Welded it on the new deck. I moved it a bit higher as I mow my grass pretty high.



Got all the spindles cleaned up. Have a couple of pulleys that may need replacement soon. Will run it for awhile and see what happens.

Hoping to get some paint on it tonight after the kids are in bed.

 

[jrsavoie]

Spent several hours on the deck today getting everything swapped over from the parts deck. Never wanted a plasma cutter so bad in my life!

View attachment 575169

View attachment 575170

Had to cut the whole backside of the deck to get at the welds to remove the wheel mounts and baffling.

View attachment 575171

View attachment 575172

Baffling and wheel mounts being welded into the old style deck.

View attachment 575173

View attachment 575174

Discovered another difference between the old and new style decks. The newer decks had a hole drilled in the deck to allow a grease zerk to poke through so you could grease it from the top side. My old deck did not have this hole drilled, so I had to drill one.

View attachment 575175

View attachment 575176

Cut off the front roller from the other parts deck I have. This deck is also rotted out.

View attachment 575177

Welded it on the new deck. I moved it a bit higher as I mow my grass pretty high.

View attachment 575178

Got all the spindles cleaned up. Have a couple of pulleys that may need replacement soon. Will run it for awhile and see what happens.

Hoping to get some paint on it tonight after the kids are in bed.

What does the grease zerk go to?

 

[Asymair95]

The zerk goes to the spindle bearings for the center blade.
The two outside spindles have zerks on top of the spindle in the middle of the drive pulley. Obviously the gearbox sits on top of the center spindle, so they use this arrangement.



Got a few coats of por15 epoxy paint brushed on tonight. Was hoping to get the rustoleum on tomorrow, but I think this has to cure longer than that. Will see tomorrow.