Any benefit in changing hyd fluid?

[CMV]

Got all my filters & fluids to do my 50 hr service. Would there be any benefit to changing the hyd fluid at same time? From the recommendation here for Kub Super UDT-2 I did some more internet research and have read about it quieting down whine, giving smoother operation, etc on other machines. And if it's written on the internet it must be true Manual doesn't call for change until 500 hrs service. So before buying $125 or so of fluid figured it would be smart to ask if there would be a good reason to switch the factory fluid @ 50 hrs for that Kub fluid or would there be 0 difference and I should just save the $ and just change the filter?

 

[LouNY]

I don't know on your tractor how the sumps are set up, mine has a suction screen and a magnet to access those the system has to be drained.
I am a proponent of early fluid changes to get any initial manufacturing debris and crud out of the systems, the premium fluids may not be
required on your tractor but as long as they meet or exceed your manufacture requirements it sure won't hurt and may give it a little more protection
and longevity. My equipment gets filters and oil changes annually if it hasn't gotten to the recommended service interval, I don't change the hydraulic fluid
annually after the initial but I do every 3-4 years requardless of the hours, fluid may not be cheap but it's less then part and labor.

 

[Deere Dude]

Got all my filters & fluids to do my 50 hr service. Would there be any benefit to changing the hyd fluid at same time? From the recommendation here for Kub Super UDT-2 I did some more internet research and have read about it quieting down whine, giving smoother operation, etc on other machines. And if it's written on the internet it must be true Manual doesn't call for change until 500 hrs service. So before buying $125 or so of fluid figured it would be smart to ask if there would be a good reason to switch the factory fluid @ 50 hrs for that Kub fluid or would there be 0 difference and I should just save the $ and just change the filter?

The problem with putting in something not specifically called for by the dealer is what if something acts up in the hydraulic system. What do you do? Drain out all the new experimental stuff and put in the required fluid. Sometimes there may be effects from changing oil like not getting the air out of all whole system which might cause erratic behavior for a little while.

I changed hydro oil in mine at the 400 hour required mark and had issues like sluggishness for a little while. If I would have tried a different that what the manufacturer suggests I would have blamed that new oil.

The dealers aren't always right either. I went to get some JD lo-vis hydro oil and the dealer said I could us regular vis hydro oil. Probably because he had a big pile of it by the door. I firmly told him I want lo-vis oil. He went in back and got a couple buckets for me. As I was changing the oil I noticed on the dipstick, "Lo-Vis Oil." So I am glad I went with that, even though regular vis might have worked. I did have sluggishness for a little while after the change, but at least I knew it wasn't the oil.

I would not change it as long as it is running good, it is under warranty, and it isn't called for yet.

 

[PILOON]

Heck, just follow the manual, don't over do it. Maybe the hydro filter as any debris would be living in there but then they also have a screen in the sump to catch any debris.
Most engines today are so well machined to tolerance that there is little or no debris created unlike years ago when all sorts of metal debris was created during breakin periods.

 

[tomplum]

I was ready to get a bucket of the SUDT2 and the Kubota dealer talked me out of it. They also couldn't confirm that it was a true synthetic. Really, hydraulic oil itself isn't rocket science- but I do like synthetic engine oils in my vehicles anyway. I think the SUDT2 could be a good choice. The tractor spec is either a 32 or 46. I went with the Amsoil because I actually knew it was synthetic and was recommended by PLAS62 who said it made a difference with his XJ . I think I asked him about it in his thread where the rear axle broke. Our hydro wasn't super noisy and I hadn't really noticed a difference immediately after the change. Possibly is quieter after another 5 -10 hours went by? The synthetic Amsoil has a wider viscosity range than a typical hydraulic oil. It could be a benefit in cold climate for better initial response. If you're interested: AMSOIL Synthetic Tractor Hydraulic/Transmission Oil SAE 5W-3

 

[mslisaj]

Quick question. Any concern for maybe the gallon of oil you're leaving in the system (ie: cylinders, lines, valves and passages) that you can't drain out mixing with a synthetic refill?

 

[oosik]

I would imagine that in every tractor ever made - there will be a certain amount of hydraulic oil that will not drain out. Unless you are really uptight - don't worry about it. Besides - if a small amount doesn't drain, what are you going to do about it.

In regards to the 50 hour service - I simply followed the recommendations in my owners manual and changed out the hydraulic oil & filters. Yes, it was expensive - in my case, 16 gallons expensive. But in regards to its cost vs potential problems - the oil is pretty cheap insurance.

 

[ovrszd]

Additionally, in regards to "mixing". Every time you run the hydraulics of an attachment you "mix" your hydraulic oil. Every time you couple hydraulic hoses to your tractor without thoroughly cleaning the female coupler fitting on the tractor you "contaminate" your hydraulic oil.

My Brother was horrible about this. I never coupled my tractor to his equipment or let him couple his tractor to my equipment.

 

[jdom84]

I would not change the fluid now but would change it at a half interval, 250 hours.

why? what is the reasoning behind this suggestion? LS recommends the change of the filter at 50 hours and fluid at 500 hours. Are you saying they got it wrong? or just recommending this to play it safe?
If we changed the hydro fluid in my families mining machines every 250 hours, we would be loosing money and would be spending all our time changing fluids.

hydraulic oil filters are usually between 5 and 10 microns maybe more depending on specs required but they do a very good job at catching the "junk" if there is any introduced in the system. if during your inspections you notice metallic particles in your system, the filter is probably in bypass mode and you probably have an issue that needs repairing. Pouring expensive oil at it wont make that go away.

Quick question. Any concern for maybe the gallon of oil you're leaving in the system (ie: cylinders, lines, valves and passages) that you can't drain out mixing with a synthetic refill?

More the reason not to worry about switching to full synthetic, If the manufacturer doesn't require it, you probably don't "need" it unless you are looking to extend your change intervals or working in conditions that would require it. Synthetic oil might make the hydrostat trans quieter but thats because of viscosity not because its magic.

Here is a good article on hydraulic maintenance... of coarse these guys want you to subscribe to their service, so can you trust them?
The Seven Most Common Hydraulic Equipment Mistakes

There are thousands of hours on the machines at the mine and most have never had their hydro fluid changed... only filtered. Doesn't mean I'm going to recommend it... just what works for us. However, we do inspect the oil regularly which is the most important thing you can do.

 

[tomplum]

The cost of the oil is really negligible in the scheme of things really. You give someone a 150$ for a pail of known good oil (synthetic or not)that will be in the rig for 500 hours or so. Drop the drain plug, check the magnet and the fluid and if anything settles out you'll know. Just an extra tool when you do your first PM. A good first inspection and really easier to do. Necessary? No. Neither is changing your engine oil every 100 hours. But many do. I stand by the fact that one place you want proper filters is with a hydrostat set up. Suction filters like to have no frills they way I understand it. BTW jdom84, just be aware that the page listed is for the manual transmission XJ. I assume that when you are in your manual, you've got that covered and this one popped up.