Buying Advice Another looking for help on purchase

[GeneDoc]

I have 100+ acres of rolling land in Rhinelander (WI), mostly wooded, for which I am trying to get a tractor. In the past, I have rented Bobcat skidsteers (e.g. T650) and 8500# mini excavators (love the thumb!) to do the work and have liked their size, but don't like the inconvenience of having to rent. A big benefit of renting is I don't have to know how to do any maintenance. I want a tractor to help maintain trails, pull stumps, and maintain small food plots. I have a 25hp DR brush mower towed by a Mule ProFXT, so I don't need a mower. I also have a 72" plow for the Mule, so don't need that now. The land is mostly dry, but there are many wet areas. I had to teach myself how to get a mini-excavator unstuck a couple times. Thank goodness I had a bucket! So, hopefully the need and land type is somewhat clear.

I am in the category of having more money than tractor-related brain power, so would appreciate any and all help. I have been considering units in the $20-25K price range, namely Kubota and JD, looking to start with a unit with a front loader, but eventually being able to add a backhoe. I have been looking mainly at Kubota and JD based on talking to the farmers I work with and they dealers ~45 miles away, though I know there is some interest in Mahindra, which also has a dealer 45 miles away. The Kubota B3350 had caught my eye, but late last night I learned about the regeneration issue, whatever that is, so now I'm wondering if I should be leaning on the B2650. It seems the JD 2032R is a reasonable comparison by price and power, but I don't know enough about the units to know if the 2032R is actually closer to a BX23S and comparison with B3350 is inaccurate. I'm not trying to start a green/orange flame war here.

Added into the mix is a used JD 4320 with 690hours that's not too far away. It's at a dealer, which gives me a little confidence, but I am concerned about buying used as I don't know the first thing about large engine maintenance. I'm teachable and willing to get dirty, but could be easily swindled on a hidden problem.

So, with all of this babbling. I am looking for input on if I'm looking at reasonable units, right size units, and frankly have no clue what options would be good to get at purchase instead of waiting down the road. I would rather not spend the money on a B3350 and backhoe at the start, but I'd rather get a larger tractor to start and then add the backhoe later instead of getting a smaller unit that comes with a backhoe and wishing I had more power.

Thanks for any and all input. I appreciate it in advance.

 

[nybirdman]

If you like Kubota;look at a L2501.Very popular model for Kubota.I have operated a "B" and found it to be o.k. but the small "L" series seems to be more tractor for not much more money.
We have two "L's" in the family and one Grand L.

 

[oldballs]

My "B" does everything that I need to do. But my 3 acres is not wooded and no really big jobs are required. On my wish list would be a jump up to a Kubota L3901 size which adds quite a bit of heft to doing bigger chores. I can't comment on the regeneration problem on the new units. ... and I'm only thinking of the Kubota line which I am a bit familiar with.

Happy hunting,
Mike

 

[bspeedy]

I think you will find a tractor very useful for some of the things that the Mule is currently helping with. I would not be satisfied with a DR type mower so I would ditch that for a tractor mounted rotary cutter. Same thing with a plow (I'm assuming it's a 72 inch disc harrow?). I'd use the tractor for that. Tractors are not ideal tools for stump removal unless a backhoe is attached.

For that acreage and your wishes, I would look for a Grand L or MX series Kubota (or an equivalent size in the other brands).

I'm assuming the JD 4320 you looked at is the modern 4320 and not the old 2wd version from the 1970's. If so, it's the right size and weight for you, I think. 48 hp, heavy frame. I don't know the reliability record of this particular model, but at 600 hours, it should have thousands of hours left in it's life. The average CUT owner puts 100 hours per year on his tractor. Don't fear used machines. Have them checked out by a friend or paid mechanic. 100 bucks for a couple hours of time from someone knowledgeable can save you thousands.

 

[Thomas]

Check out Kubota L's with HST,as other posted couple more dollars but well worth every dime.

 

[Ricn]

Second on l2501, mine is more than expected and so comfortable to set on. My neighbor just got his but with backhoe attached and using it every day on his place. The l series are very easy on and off for us old timers as well, a real plus!
Ricn

 

[jeff9366]

DEERE 4320 SPECS: TractorData.com John Deere 4320 tractor information

Does the Deere 4320 have a Front End Loader?

Personally, I would prefer the stability of the Deere 4320 at 3,900 pounds bare tractor.
Deere 4320 is a made in Augusta, Georgia model. It should be dependable.
Hours are low. Probably one owner, which is desirable.


The Kubota L2501 is going to feel like a Tonka toy after the heavy equipment you have rented.

Whatever brand of tractor you choose I recommend a bare tractor weight of ~~4,000 to 6,000 pounds.
You need some grunt and loader carrying capacity for 100 acres of woods.



You have not described what tasks you foresee for the Backhoe.

I have a $400 Bucket Spade. Mounted on the bucket of the Deere 4320 Bucket Spade will accomplish 40% of Backhoe tasks.

Do you have enough work to justify an $8,000 Backhoe rather than a $400 Bucket Spade?

You need to remove the Backhoe to access tractor Three Point Hitch.

LINK: Tractor and Skidsteer bucket spade shovel

 

[GeneDoc]

Thanks for everyone's thoughts.

When I saw the information on the JD 4320, I called the Kubota dealer and asked what he'd match it against for a similar price. I also asked his opinion about the B3350 vs L3301HST. He said he'd put the L3901 at $24,500 to keep it below the JD price.

@Jeff9366, great thoughts:
1. Yes, I mentioned what I'd rented in case my limited experience mattered. I know I'm very much a novice, but the equipment I rented was great and I was afraid I'd be disappointed with lawnmowers with light weight attachments.
2. The JD 4320 has more on it than I understand and the pictures are limited, but they do show the edge of a loader. It is listed as 4WD, hydro, R4 tires, CX400 self leveling, skid loader hookup on bucket, 1 rear remote, 540 rear pto, 3 pt hitch. With my limited knowledge, it all sounds great (ala Charlie Brown's teacher, "blah blah blah"). Glad to hear people think the hours aren't a big issue. Still don't have a clue how to find a mechanic when the place is 90 miles away.
3. When I used the mini-excavator, it was primarily for boulders and stumps, though it did an amazing job of simply grabbing small trees and ripping them out at the roots. No need to dig out a stump if the whole tree was just ripped out of the ground. After I'd figured that out, I kicked myself for the chainsaw time I'd spent, where I'd been careful to leave a stump the skidsteer could manage.
4. Your idea of the Bucket Spade is amazing. Big thanks! I've never even heard of it. That would absolutely be plenty for the beginning and would likely allow me to put off the backhoe purchase, probably indefinitely. Were I to have a very large job, probably should just go back and rent a mini-ex.

BTW, the post & tree puller is also impressive and further shows I don't need a backhoe:
Tractor Forks, Bucket Forks, Loader Forks

So, it looks like I'll need to figure out if the power of the JD4320 balances out my worries about a machine without a warranty over a L3301HST with less power and heft but with a warranty.

Thanks again all!

 

[jeff9366]

GeneDoc

The JD 4320 has more on it than I understand and the pictures are limited, but they do show the edge of a loader. It is listed as 4WD, hydro, R4 tires, CX400 self leveling, skid loader hookup on bucket, 1 rear remote, 540 rear pto, 3 pt hitch. With my limited knowledge, it all sounds great. Glad to hear people think the hours aren't a big issue.

You need to confirm the loader. The other kit is excellent. Ask if the rear tires are 75% liquid filled/"loaded" which improves tractor stability on slopes.
The engine hours are low but having one owner is more important. Tractor reliability is heavily influenced by the prudence and experience of the operator(s). A one owner tractor is more likely to have been operated prudently and maintained properly than a multi-owner tractor. (Well maintained diesel tractor engines run 12,000 hours before overhaul.)

For woods work I would talk to Deere about installing expanded steel as armor under the tractor. HST solenoids, hydraulic lines and filters are vulnerable under the tractor in the woods. I have expanded steel armor under my tractor and it has been bullet proof in the woods since simple installation.
LINK: expanded steel armor site:tractorbynet.com - Google Search


Still don't have a clue how to find a mechanic when Deere is 90 miles away.

Ask your neighbors. Ask tire dealers and NAPA store employees in nearest town, ask local welding shop. (You will need the welding shop from time to time.) Search internet for mobile tractor service. Deere is second to Kubota in number of units "out there". T-B-N can be very helpful as tutorial for routine preventative maintenance, somewhat helpful if you need real repairs.

I am glad my Kubota dealer is six miles from my property. I fuel and grease my tractor but at age seventy I have the dealer pick up the tractor and do everything else.

It is a rare new tractor that does not need adjustments during the first 200 hours in the field. With 690 hours it is highly probable the Deere has been completely debugged.

DEERE 4320 T-B-N THREADS: (keep in mind there is a 1970's model Deere 4320 as well as the contemporary Deere 4320):
Deere 432 site:tractorbynet.com - Google Search


3. When I used the mini-excavator, it was primarily for boulders and stumps, though it did an amazing job of simply grabbing small trees and ripping them out at the roots. No need to dig out a stump if the whole tree was just ripped out of the ground. After I'd figured that out, I kicked myself for the chainsaw time I'd spent, where I'd been careful to leave a stump the skidsteer could manage.

Many share your experience and chagrin, including me. After renting tracked equipment you will be appalled at how UNSTABLE a wheeled tractor is under front end load.

Ask if Deere 4320 rear tires are 75% liquid filled/"loaded" which improves tractor stability on slopes. Ask if rear wheels are adjusted as wide as tractor design allows.


4. Your idea of the Bucket Spade is amazing. Big thanks! I've never even heard of it. That would absolutely be plenty for the beginning and would allow me to put off the backhoe purchase.
VIDEO: tractor bucket spade attachment - YouTube

BTW, the post & tree puller is also impressive and further shows I don't need a backhoe:
Tractor Forks, Bucket Forks, Loader Forks

The other wonderful bucket attachment for woods work, light grading and opening a small garden is a Ratchet Rake, which can be purchased "drop ship" through the T-B-N store, button at top of this page.

~~You may want a Backhoe....eventually.

VIDEO: ratchet rake - YouTube

LINK: Ratchet Rake site:tractorbynet.com - Google Search


I need to figure out if the power of the JD4320 balances out my worries about a machine without a warranty.

It is the WEIGHT of the Deere that is important, not the horsepower of the engine.
Tractor weight Vs tractor horsepower: https://www.google.com/search?sourc...0i131k1j0i22i30k1j33i22i29i30k1.0.PXL-tuGOtqU

Tractor warranties are NOT inclusive. 75% of what new tractor owners think should be warranty repairs are classified as operator error by tractor producers.

Kubota has sponsored KTAC (Kubota Tractor Acceptance Corporation) insurance which covers many (not all) tractor repairs @ $400/year. KTAC is more comprehensive than Kubota tractor warranty. KTAC covers TRANSPORTATION for repairs.

As Deere finances equipment purchases like Kubota, I expect Deere offers similar insurance.


Fill in your location within your T-B-N Profile.

 

[GeneDoc]

jeff9366

Thanks for excellent information. You've given me quite a punch list for a call to the dealer. Thank you very much for your generous assistance.

The JD4320 is from 2012. I'm attaching images from the sale site on the off chance there's any other useful information there.

It was interesting reading posts about using Rimguard (sugar beet byproduct) vs antifreeze/water vs RV water antifreeze vs windshield washer fluid vs axle weights. Will need to look into this, but not a deal breaker on used vs new if it's not in the JD4320, as it certainly isn't in the L3301 new. Funny thing is I'm seeing posts from some saying manufacturers don't recommend filling tires and also posts talking about maintenance on filled tires being problematic. I have no data either way, but random internet information can be as confusing as it is helpful. It seems the majority of posts favor using filled tires and I even found reference to tools that would let me fill tires myself, albeit losing some of the density provided by Rimguard.

Got sucked into reading about tire filling and the tangent took me into a realm I'd never thought about -- rear ballast. I do plan to do heavy lifting with the FEL, so I'm glad I read more about the need for ballast. Some folks have been pretty creative when coming up with ballast, so it's great to see ideas. I have welding equipment, so may be able to MacGyver something for the job.

For good or bad, my land has little in the way of slopes. There are a few areas of 20-30 foot elevation change, but that's an exception and most trails cross areas of 2-4 foot change.

 

[jeff9366]

I have owned three tractors, each heavier than the former. All have had tires filled only with air.
My Kubota L3560 has a modest 37-horspower. Deere 4320 has modest horsepower too. You will not need loaded rear tires for tire traction, only for stability.

Only rear tires are ballasted. Front axle is too light and pivots, so fronts are not ballasted. Power steering is not designed for loaded front tires.

Rear tires are always ballasted 3/4 full for tractor work on slopes. This lowers tractor center-of-gravity on slopes. Liquid covers internal hub so hub is continually submerged. Tractors have no suspension other than air in the tires. If tires are filled 100% ride is terrible and traction degraded because rear tire flex is degraded.

If you buy a high powered tractor, say 4,000 pound bare tractor with 60-horsepower engine, loading tires will improve traction pulling Three Point Hitch ground contact implements such as a quadruple plow or heavy, wide Disc Harrow. Alternative is bolt-on cast iron wheel weights for traction on level ground. Sometimes both liquid and wheel weights are installed. Liquid and cast iron have advantages/disadvantages to each. But for slopes, to improve stability, 3/4 liquid is better than cast iron.

If you run tractor over hard surface roads at high speeds, 14 to 18 miles per hour, loaded rear tires (1,400 pounds) can negatively influence handling and braking, requiring extra caution as liquid falls.

If you get a puncture, you lose the liquid. Changing liquid filled rear tires is at least a two person, sweaty, potentially hazardous job @ 700 pounds per rear wheel.

All three of my tractors have had rear tires filled only with air. By design, I minimally compact soil; a tenant of sustainable agriculture. When I need ballast weight I mount a Cultipacker or Box Blade on the Three Point Hitch for counterbalance. My Three Point Hitch weight can be removed. Weight cantilevered on the Three Point Hitch is more effective counterbalance weight than rear tire weight on the rear axle.

A heavy tractor with air filled R4/industrial rear tires may still traverse lawns in 2-WD without marking; loading the rear tires usually marks/ruts lawns. ( I never mark/rut lawns with my 5,400 pound kubota L3560 with air filled R4/industrial rear tires in 2-WD.)

Rear tire chains, rubber or steel, are a neglected option for improving tire traction in fields. I have no experience with chains as my tractor has a modest 37-horsepower engine. However, T-B-N correspondents who use tire chains are fans.

You will need Three Point Hitch implements. Heavy implements are excellent counterbalance as they are cantilevered to rear of tractor, increasing effectiveness of nominal weight. Cantilevered rear weight unloads FEL load stress from front axle and front axle bearings; filled rear tire weight does not.

I keep a 600 pound Cultipacker on the Three Point Hitch most of the time. Cultipacker is my usual choice because it is compact. When I need to lift heavy FEL loads I mount 600 pound Box Blade, which protrudes further to the rear,
or 950 pound Disc Harrow which protrudes way.......back there, reducing maneuverability but permits 1,600 pound lifts my FEL is capable of.

Photo #5 is around 1,600 pound lift. Rear wheels may have had 200 pounds ground contact.

Tractor reliability is primarily a factor of prudence and experience of the operator. I operate my FEL at no more than 60% of capacity most of the time. You read here often: BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR. Buy enough tractor so you operate at no more than 60% of capacity most of the time, 100% only occasionally.

Heavy tractor, long life. Safety first.

Photo #7 Ratchet Rake grading.


MORE: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...386705-kubota-l3560-tractor-la805-loader.html

===Fill in your location within your T-B-N Profile.===​

 

[ericm979]

That's a self leveling loader on the Deere. Very cool. It keeps the bucket at the same angle as you raise and lower the loader. Few CUTS have it. Without it you need to pay attention to the angle of the bucket and move it as you raise and lower it.

For example when using the bucket to rounds of wood into a trailer I have to tilt the bucket down as I raise the loader so the wood doesn't roll backwards out of the bucket and land on the tractor hood or the operator.

There's more points to grease with that mechanical self leveller and more to check for wear but I'd gladly take that to get the feature. The capacity may be less than a regular loader, you'll want to make sure it's got the capacity for your needs.

A B3350 is too small as the sole tractor for your land. A 3301/3901 is larger but still smaller and lighter than I'd want. I only have 20 acres, all steep. The Branson I got is larger and weighs more than the 3901 and I'm glad I went with it as I can still exceed it's limits. There's other tractors besides Deere and Kubota. I'd also recommend getting a rotary or flail mower for the tractor and selling the DR mower, and getting something for the tractor to take the place of the plow (for snow? you don't say and don't list your location). A tractor weighs more and is made for pulling and pushing, a UTV isn't.

For filling tires I'd either do rimguard or winshield washer. The old way was calcium chloride which has problems.
I had mine filled when I bought it so I can't say what the difference between filled and not filled is but this tractor's much more stable on slopes than my old Kubota B7100. If you're going to be operating on slopes it's probably worth it though a heavier tractor does impact the ground a bit more.

 

[jeff9366]

ERICM979: Is that a pintle hitch in OP's Photo #3?

On my Kubota the rear/center drawbar is in that position.


That's a self leveling loader on the Deere. Very cool.
Curious, how many $$?

 

[ericm979]

yea it is a pintle hitch. Not clear from the pic if it's removable. The drawbar on my Branson is removable and can be set in a couple different positions. When I am pulling with it I set it so its extended, to reduce the lift the front and roll over effect. Not that I've gotten close to lifting the front but having seen the videos and met a paraplegic from a tractor rollover I'm being cautious.

 

[bspeedy]

Looks like SSQA bucket on the JD. Hard to tell for sure. That, to me, is preferable to the JD proprietary version. That 4320 looks like an honest tractor, meaning the appearance is appropriate for the hours. Nice grille guard, self leveling loader, overall decent shape - those are good signs of careful ownership. How much are they asking?

If it checks out, I'd buy that machine for the same money as a new L3901 ALL...DAY...LONG.

 

[jeff9366]

If it checks out, I'd buy that machine for the same money as a new L3901 ALL...DAY...LONG.

I would too. Much safer for a new tractor operator.


L3901 = 2,778 pounds, bare tractor.


Deere 4320 = 3,900 pounds, bare tractor.
Well equipped with numerous, extra-cost, factory options.

 

[ArmyDoc]

I have 100+ acres of rolling land in Rhinelander (WI), mostly wooded, for which I am trying to get a tractor. In the past, I have rented Bobcat skidsteers (e.g. T650) and 8500# mini excavators (love the thumb!) to do the work and have liked their size, but don't like the inconvenience of having to rent. .....I am in the category of having more money than tractor-related brain power, so would appreciate any and all help.

I suspect you and I have a lot in common. I have a little over 180 acres of planted pines... I'm slowly converting to a silvopasture set up. Have been doing this for about 8 years. I'll share with you a little of my experience.

I started with a used 45hp tractor that I got for with a bunch of implements (5ft box blade, 8ft scrape blade, 5ft spring harrow, 5 ft disc harrow, busted bushog, post-hole augar, mold plow - bent, drum aerator, boom pole, 2 row planter) and a new bush-hogfor about $10k. It taught me a LOT.

Some things I learned -
1) I need / want a CAB. I'm not a farmer, I'm a doctor. I am used to AC, and I'm not to work when it's really hot out. Only time I worked outside for past 8 years was early in the morning, and once it got too hot, I went back in. This resulted in a lot of time when I could have got some work done that I didn't. So, next machines will all have a CAB and AC. That's me. May not be you.

2) Newer machines have more safety features. (2b is that bolt on safety features are not worth it) and other conveniences. If I had it to do again, I'd have bought a newer tractor for a few thousand more rather than my 1970s bargain. I think hours matters more than years in general, but 30+ year old machines just don't have some of the features you will want / need.

3a) I'm not a mechanic.
3b) That doesn't mean I can't fix some things that break.
Having an older piece of machinery means things will break. After they do, you learn both 3 and 3b

4) having a FEL is pretty much a necessity if your property is forested. If you don't have it on your equipment, you are going to rent something or hires someone that does.

5) 45hp will do a lot. 90 hp will do a lot more easily.
For me, 45hp is the minimum for a tractor. It will pull a 6ft heavy bushhog and 5-6 ft implements just fine. But bushogging/disking 10-12 acres takes a long time with a 5-6ft implement. When I get 50 acres cleared, it will just not be a viable option. I wish I had bought a 90-100hp tractor with a FEL and a 10ft heavy bushog to start instead of 45. If I had, I might not be looking for new machinery now. (15 ft is great but only works on fields, not small areas)

6) don't buy light duty implements. Bush-hog I got with the tractor turned out not to work. Bought an inexpensive one that I busted almost immediately. Luckily he gave me full cost less repairs trade in on a new heavy bush-hog.

Finally,
7) I really need two machines
A tractor is a great, versatile machine. But you said you'd been renting CTL/skidsteers and excavators. No tractor with a FEL will not do what those things do anywhere near as well as they do. And no CTL/skidsteer/excavator will pull like a tractor.

I am currently looking at a JCB Teleskid. It's a 75hp compact trackloader with a telescoping boom. Why? Because I have a tractor that will do what I need in terms of pulling right now, even if it is not as fast or as comfortable as I would like. The things it doesn't do all fall in the CTL/excavator realm. The other option I'm debating is getting a 90-110hp tractor with FEL, but tractors in my price range ($60-80k) don't have the hydraulics needed to run some of the front end loader implements I'd like to run, and are not as maneuverable between trees. I suspect I will end up with both, but can't afford both now.

Hope this helps,

ArmyDoc

 

[Gary Fowler]

jeff9366

Thanks for excellent information. You've given me quite a punch list for a call to the dealer. Thank you very much for your generous assistance.

The JD4320 is from 2012. I'm attaching images from the sale site on the off chance there's any other useful information there.

It was interesting reading posts about using Rimguard (sugar beet byproduct) vs antifreeze/water vs RV water antifreeze vs windshield washer fluid vs axle weights. Will need to look into this, but not a deal breaker on used vs new if it's not in the JD4320, as it certainly isn't in the L3301 new. Funny thing is I'm seeing posts from some saying manufacturers don't recommend filling tires and also posts talking about maintenance on filled tires being problematic. I have no data either way, but random internet information can be as confusing as it is helpful. It seems the majority of posts favor using filled tires and I even found reference to tools that would let me fill tires myself, albeit losing some of the density provided by Rimguard.

Got sucked into reading about tire filling and the tangent took me into a realm I'd never thought about -- rear ballast. I do plan to do heavy lifting with the FEL, so I'm glad I read more about the need for ballast. Some folks have been pretty creative when coming up with ballast, so it's great to see ideas. I have welding equipment, so may be able to MacGyver something for the job.

For good or bad, my land has little in the way of slopes. There are a few areas of 20-30 foot elevation change, but that's an exception and most trails cross areas of 2-4 foot change.

In the third picture that looks like a drawbar holder between the 3PH lift arms (a bit weird looking) but the drawbar is missing. Make sure the dealer includes the drawbar and pin to hold it on if you go with that tractor. You will need that lower drawbar for pulling stumps, a trailer etc. Never hook up to the lift arms to pull a stump or other heavy load as you could easily flip the tractor over backwards.

 

[DieselBound]

Loaded tires don't make a difference other than for stability? Man, my B7800 would always raise the rear end up when doing any real loader work. My NX5510 with loaded rears can lift max weight (total max is 2,700 lbs) w/o anything attached to the 3pt. Why not hang a box blade? I do, on both, but the box blade(s) tend to be used when I do. For my NX5510 I was doing a LOT of loader work which required me to drag around a dump trailer- (up and down the road). I couldn't hang an attachment off the 3pt AND haul that trailer! If my rears weren't ballasted I wouldn't have been able to do my loader work: a bunch of material (sand/rocks). And for grading I know that the ballasted rears help my R4s bite more: I can actually stall out my NX5510 (w/a 1,200 lb box blade), wheels not spinning!

For sure, stability IS improved: my B7800 is WAY more stable- narrow frame and a fair amount of ground clearance (higher CG), so the ballast really is apparent on this machine.

 

[GeneDoc]

Well, I heard all of the suggestions about the JD4320, but I am here to report sheepishly that I went with the K3901. He lowered the price of that unit to $3K less than the JD4320, so I went with it. Did I do a thorough comparison with the JD4320 in person? Nope. Not that logical. I didn't want to invest 4 hours of drive time on a rare day off to see a machine where a wise man could haggle and investigate a likely superior machine. I'm not wise, have more money than time, and so went with the K3901. Thank you all for mentioning the apparent quality of the JD4320. I appreciate it, even if I ultimately didn't go with that machine.

I've played with it a little and like it a lot. They didn't have the ballast box in stock, but it's in town now so I hope to try it out in a few days. I have a few of the FEL bucket shovel arriving today and will be able to use that soon.

Now I'm in the position of having a 25hp DR mower, a Kolpin power 3pt hitch system for a UTV, and other implements to figure out how to sell. The Kolpin is a 3pt system, so perhaps some of those accessories of disc plow, chisel plow, and rear blade can be used on the K3901. I will just have to ensure the K3901 3pt system will attach to the Kolpin accessory bar far enough behind the wheels.

Thanks again all for your time and assistance.