Another barn build

   / Another barn build #51  
The wood might stop condensation drips inside also.
 
   / Another barn build #52  
The big advantage to not sheeting a roof when doing metal is being able to spread your trusses out farther. If you use OSB or plywood, you have to have your trusses every 2 feet on center, or closer. I've never seen or heard of anybody putting sheeting on purlins. I guess it's possible, but from what I understand, sheeting goes directly on the truss.

Positive reason to having sheeting is less sound when it rains. It also gives you that second layer of protection if there is a leak on the metal. I had a client with a metal roof that the screws were failing, but the tar paper on the sheeting caught the water and carried it down to the gutters. The only reason we knew there was a leak is that it rained after I had removed the gutters and we saw the water running out under the metal.
 
   / Another barn build #53  
Another second layer that I did on my roofs was to run ice and water shield all the way up to the peak. My roof was shingle because of weak cell phone signals arounf here. Metal roofs and siding effect the signl. Jon
 
   / Another barn build #54  
Positive reason to having sheeting is less sound when it rains.
On most things Eddie I agree with you. Not all but on most. This is one where I disagree. I thoroughly enjoy the sound of rain on a tin roof. It's such a welcome sound in an area of low rainfall.
 
   / Another barn build
  • Thread Starter
#55  
The big advantage to not sheeting a roof when doing metal is being able to spread your trusses out farther. If you use OSB or plywood, you have to have your trusses every 2 feet on center, or closer. I've never seen or heard of anybody putting sheeting on purlins. I guess it's possible, but from what I understand, sheeting goes directly on the truss.
I'm not quite following... With the steel building, trusses are only every 13'. Then there are 6" purlins that run between them the length of the building on 24" centers. Without sheathing, the metal roof pans attach directly to the purlins. With sheathing, the sheathing goes over the purlins, then the roof pans screw to the wood. From what I've seen this is pretty common with steel building, but my experience is very limited.
 
   / Another barn build
  • Thread Starter
#56  
Progress continues....

I finally finished getting all the rock out, and of course the last part was by far the hardest, quite literally. I then located all the corners and drilled holes to mark them, and stuck rebar in the holes. These points aren't super accurate, but close enough for me to now backfill and compact around all the remaining ledge.

I had pushed rubble and tailing into the dips and valleys to make it possible to move my excavator around in the foundation site. Now I got to dig it all back out, and fill with compacted granular fill. It's been an interesting exercise in filling in sections to gain access to fill in other sections. But sure enough, one lift at a time, it's slowly coming up to grade.

Here we are just getting started filling the first valley.

PCH_2025-08-31_11-34_8163.jpg



Then expanding around the ledge....

PCH_2025-08-31_15-30_8164.jpg



And further to access an adjacent valley. It's like a glacier working it's way down a valley, and progresses at about the same speed :-(

PCH_2025-08-31_15-31_8165.jpg



Then on to start filling other valleys...

PCH_2025-09-02_08-25_8174.jpg



At the end of day 3, 2/5ths of the site is within a few inches of grade. The remaining 3/5ths still needs to come up an average of 12-18". I'm almost through the last of 4 loads of fill at 14 yds each, and have 4 more coming tomorrow. I think I only need 3, but would rather have too much and can always use leftovers around the driveway.

PCH_2025-09-02_12-56_8175.jpg


PCH_2025-09-02_12-56_8177.jpg
 
   / Another barn build #57  
Are you going to have concrete walls so you can backfill up to them?
 
   / Another barn build
  • Thread Starter
#58  
Yes, around the whole back wall, most of the left wall, and 1/3rd of the right wall. Below is a draft of the foundation plan, with final details awaiting engineering. The building is dug into a slope, hence the need to excavate out so much rock. The truss columns will sit on the pilasters, so uneven height columns for all the spans. The foundation work, excluding all my excavation work, will cost as much as the basic structure that I'm getting from Worldwide Steel. It's painful to have to build it this way, but there just isn't any flat ground anywhere suitable.

1756859350888.png



1756859722757.png
 
   / Another barn build #59  
When I first saw the compactor, I thought it was a kid's excavator helping out daddy move the fill into place. Haha on me. Jon
 
   / Another barn build #60  
What is your plan for drainage where your walls are near the hillside?
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2017 Peterbilt 567 Day Cab (A52384)
2017 Peterbilt 567...
2015 Ford Taurus CAR (A51694)
2015 Ford Taurus...
UNUSED JCT 72" HD VIBRATORY ROLLER (A51248)
UNUSED JCT 72" HD...
New/Unused 9.5ft 30 Drawer 2 Cabinet Workbench (A51573)
New/Unused 9.5ft...
Rhino FM72 Finishing Mower (A51573)
Rhino FM72...
2010 Ford Edge SE SUV (A51694)
2010 Ford Edge SE...
 
Top