Alternator converted; need replacement

[canucklehead]

My 1962 IHB414 was alternator converted. It has some sort of Delco alternator with a small, external regulator. It doesn't charge battery. I was hoping I could go to an auto wrecker and pick up almost any alternator with a built in regulator, and then just run one wire to my POS battery terminal to charge it up. Is it that easy? Is wiring that simple?

Which vehicle alternator would you recommend?

Here are a couple of pics of my present alternator set up. I think it just has to be able to mount up.

 

[bigdeano]

The alternator on my old tractor wasn't charging, turned out the slip rings were just gummed up. A lot of junk gets sucked in on a tractor. Maybe just take it apart and clean it up. You might need new brushes. That looks like the 1960s chevy alternator. Not sure though, it's been a long time since I had one on my 66 chevy II SS. It had a separate regulator I remember.

 

[George2615]

If you want to use a one wire alternator you won't find them on any car in a wrecking yard. The ones you find there either have a separate or a built in regulator. Both require more than one wire to run. You can buy one wire alternators at auto parts stores and yes, it's as simple as connecting one wire from the alt. to the pos. of the battery. The regulator is built in.

 

[canucklehead]

I'm somewhat handy, but not sure where all the wires go. I can figure out a few wires. Trouble with a lot of these parts stores is they ask you what year, make, model so they can enter it into computer and find it that way. Most of them aren't that swift that I've dealt with.

thanks for the replies.

EDIT: since this post i poked around a little. Seems like a basic alternator with regulator built in, is a 3 wire alternator. One thick wire to the + terminal, one thinner wire for ignition switch to turn it off/on (I suppose so the battery doesn't get drained??). 3rd wire is also thicker and reads voltage somewhere for the regulator. I believe I read to connect that to starter.

I'm confused about 3rd wire.

And how hard to splice into ignition wire somewhere.

 

[Zebrafive]

One wire alternators require high rpm to start charging.
I would use a three wire. if you do not have an alternator/generator/charge light you will have to add one.
It should have an +P as in output. This connects to the starter terminal that the battery positive connects to.
An F as in field. Connect from the ignition switch (hot in run) to a light (idiot/charge light) then to F terminal of the alternator.
An S as in sensing. This tell the alternator the system voltage. It can come from the battery, the starter positive terminal, or the ignition switch (hot in run). Don't just jumper it from the alternator out put. It will "see" alternator voltage and not system voltage and the alternator will not charge at a high enough voltage.

 

[skyhook]

Google " 3g alternator conversion" and look under "pictures",
Most of these high output alts are from Ford's in their mid 90's.
Very easy to hook up.
I installed one on my L4200, it now puts out 90 amp's, and a solid 14 volts at 1000 rpm's.

 

[mitch becton]

if you wish to stay with what you have it can be bought but you will need to go to 2 stores first the alternator can be bought at a parts store just ask for alternator for 1965 chevy car with v/8 motor during this time all were the same to get the regulator which will have all the wiring you should need must come from a alternator rebuild shop it is supplied in your part of the world by a company named RCP and made by a company named transpo. fyi checked last week on one for a customer the local advance had in stock for 39.95 exchange very good price with warranty if you cant locate repost will find a place for you to get them

 

[Clint S]

Also if you do not have the light or a one way diode the charging field will drain your battery when not in use. As said above just Google tractor 12 volt conversion and numerous wiring diagrams will come up.

 

[jaotguy]

if you want to try it ....

remove the alt .. scribe a line down the side of the 2 halves ...

remove the 4 long bolts holding it together ...

with a flat blade screwdriver, pry between the front casing and the windings ...
the unit will come apart, keep the windings in the rear half.. the brushes / springs will fall out ( don't worry )

use some sandpaper and clean the 2 slip rings on the rotor ...

clean the rear section of the brush holder ( 409 /fantastic /etc ) and dry ...

look closely at the back of the winding end .. right beside the center is a small hole ... put a paper clip through it and it should just slide past the brush holder ...

remove the paper clip , install the spring, put the brush back on top of it and push the clip back through the hole and over the brush ...and into the brush holder 1/2 way .. put the second spring in places and second brush , compress and cover by pushing the clip further in ...

now align the 2 halves ( using the scribed mark to get it right ) , push the 2 halves together and install the 4 bolts , tighten criss cross style a bit at a time to pull the 2 halves together ...

finally, pull the paper clip out and let the brushes snap against the rotor ...

install and try it out ....