Alternate Hydraulic Oil and Filter

   / Alternate Hydraulic Oil and Filter
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#21  
   / Alternate Hydraulic Oil and Filter #22  
Just a reminder: it is possible to remove water from oil. I had water in the relatively fresh transaxle gear oil on my Massey 204. I started draining a bucket at a time, putting it on a controlled hotplate (in a high quality stainless bucket) set to just above 212F, then cool the clean oil, put it back, and repeat.
 
   / Alternate Hydraulic Oil and Filter #23  
I repaired a leak on my TC-30 last year that required me to split the tractor and I replaced all the hydro fluid with fluid from Rural King. I just made sure it met the spec for New Holland (134D maybe?) I found no need to spend $$$ when a generic that meets spec is only $. I certainly don't buy engine oil at the Honda dealer for our car. The aftermarket companies wouldn't put the spec on the container if it would damage the system, too much liability.
 
   / Alternate Hydraulic Oil and Filter #24  
 
   / Alternate Hydraulic Oil and Filter #25  
My New Holland dealer and the local Kubota dealer matches Messick's pricing on quality hydraulic transmission oil. I would not go cheap. Your hydrostatic transmission is a very, very costly unit.
I get Kubota Super UDT2, 75% synthetic for $145 5-gallon pail, price matched. The Kioti dealer price is $145 for regular hydraulic trans fluid.
You may want to flush with Tractor Supply, or Rural King several times to ensure all the water emulsified oil is out of the system.
As mentioned about, several hundred dollars of fluid and filters is way cheaper than a $8000 hydrostatic transmission repair.
I would bite the bullet and do a very good job flushing to ensure a long life of your tractor.
 
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   / Alternate Hydraulic Oil and Filter #26  
In the way back machine my father's friend worked at a large oil refinery.
He said they did oil for all the big brands and all the oils were the same. He laughed when people said they were loyal Texaco, Quaker State, Valvoline etc. customers. They all came down the same line.
What he didn't recommend was the discount labels. To match their price points many additives were reduced. It should meet the basic requirements but just.
Is it worth saving $40-50 maintaining a $30K+ machine. Especially a fluid most here only need to change (by hours used) every 10 years+?
Like my Masseys. 50 hours from new. Then 500 hours. After that, every 1000 hours.
The 2 MF 563s I traded, one had 700 odd hours and 800 on the other. After close to 17 years.
4 hydraulic changes in all that time would have saved me maybe $200?
Engine oil every Fall before going into hibernation.
 
   / Alternate Hydraulic Oil and Filter #27  
I would just bite the bullet and buy the NH filters and oil. I know that's easy to say when it's not my money, but unless you are a large outfit running several machines with multiple changes a year, the savings isn't worth it to me vs the risk.

A generic fluid might be fine, or you may find you have to dump it and buy the factory fluid anyway due to decreased performance or another issue. I know NH doesn't make their own filters, but the hydraulic ones seem to be pretty special stuff, not sure a Wix that is meant to cover multiple different use cases is what I would want. And how much is saved over how many years of runtime?

I guess it comes down to elimination of variables for me. If I were to use factory fluids and filters, those parts shouldn't contribute to a problem, and would help me troubleshoot the other items better.

One other question... Do you use your tractor with any implements that connect to hydraulic outlets? If they sit out in the weather there is a potential for some cross contamination or water intrusion there. But it also is very possible it's just condensation that has accumulated over time.
 
   / Alternate Hydraulic Oil and Filter #28  
I just made sure it met the spec for New Holland (134D maybe?) I found no need to spend $$$ when a generic that meets spec is only $. I certainly don't buy engine oil at the Honda dealer for our car. The aftermarket companies wouldn't put the spec on the container if it would damage the system, too much liability
Theres no 3rd party testing for hudraulic oil like the API tag on engine oil. So the hydraulic oil manufacturer can state there oil is comparable with anything due to no testing.

Good luck trying to get a cheap hydraulic oil company to pay for repairs. However if you dont have HST, wet clutches or wet brakes I would definitely use cheap oil.

Changing things like wet clutches and wet brakes are just to expensive vs spending $200 I hydraulic oil every 600+hrs.
 

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