Alright. I screwd it up good now.

   / Alright. I screwd it up good now.
  • Thread Starter
#41  
First post so Hello to every one and a Merry Xmass to all.

May I ask is the body of the work light metal?

If it is have you attached the light to a metal part of the tractor?

If you have then my thoughts are that the earth wire on the light runs to the body or case of the light so by run the Positive wire to the earth wire on the light it will create a dead short to earth through the metal case of the light.

Hope this has helped in some way.

Merry Xmas!

The light has an aluminum housing with a heavy powder coat. Yes it's bolted to a metal part of the tractor. It's working as of now. Now that I have black to + and white to - .
 
   / Alright. I screwd it up good now. #42  
With no instructions I would have done the same thing you did. So don't be to hard on yourself.
 
   / Alright. I screwd it up good now. #43  
With no instructions I would have done the same thing you did. So don't be to hard on yourself.

I Have worked with electronics since age 12 or so.. and been an Amateur Radio Operator since 1971, as well as commercial licenses, and I would have put the black wire to the negative...you learn stuff every day...at least I do:)

James K0UA
 
   / Alright. I screwd it up good now.
  • Thread Starter
#44  
I posted a review on the retailers website. Besides this "little problem", the fixtures appear to be very well made and after doing some research online they seem to be a good value. I wasn't aware of how pricy led lights are. These are Taiwan made. Apparently Taiwan is the leader in LED chip technology. I'm over being mad about the extra $$$ and time spent, driving all over the place looking for fuses. Lol
I'll chalk it up as experience.
 
   / Alright. I screwd it up good now. #45  
I posted a review on the retailers website. Besides this "little problem", the fixtures appear to be very well made and after doing some research online they seem to be a good value. I wasn't aware of how pricy led lights are. These are Taiwan made. Apparently Taiwan is the leader in LED chip technology. I'm over being mad about the extra $$$ and time spent, driving all over the place looking for fuses. Lol
I'll chalk it up as experience.

you know.....now that you mention it, i guess having a few extra main 60 amp (or whatever) FUSES in the shop wouldnt be a bad idea. probably not the easiest things to find in a pinch. i think ill line up a few
 
   / Alright. I screwd it up good now.
  • Thread Starter
#46  
you know.....now that you mention it, i guess having a few extra main 60 amp (or whatever) FUSES in the shop wouldnt be a bad idea. probably not the easiest things to find in a pinch. i think ill line up a few

For $4, you bet I got extra. :)
 
   / Alright. I screwd it up good now.
  • Thread Starter
#47  
Here it is:
 

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   / Alright. I screwd it up good now. #48  
I posted a review on the retailers website. Besides this "little problem", the fixtures appear to be very well made and after doing some research online they seem to be a good value. I wasn't aware of how pricy led lights are. These are Taiwan made. Apparently Taiwan is the leader in LED chip technology. I'm over being mad about the extra $$$ and time spent, driving all over the place looking for fuses. Lol
I'll chalk it up as experience.

They are really good lights for the price especially. So far they are performing above expectations on my BX. They are very bright. As soon as they get more in (who knows when that is) I'll be adding a third.

On high prices, for giggles, search Lucidity LED's model 22809. Typically they are well over $100.
 
   / Alright. I screwd it up good now. #49  
So, if these are designed for automotive/tractor/truck use, chances are that one of the two leads is connected internally to the housing of the light, and supplied only to ensure you have a good ground from the equipment chassis. While there were no instructions from the manufacturer, I would be surprised I f there wasn't something that indicated what lead is for ground.

The other lead is for the power source. What one is positive or negative is determined by what is connected to the ground from your battery. Most equipment is negative ground, however my Father's '68 Jaguar E-type is positive ground, a arrangement which is rare now.

The short happened when the lead designed for ground was instead supplied with power, and the lights were also bolted on to the chassis. The main fuse blew because it has a faster trip time than the other 7.5A fuse. If your overload was say, 10A, it is likely the 7.5A one would blow first, but in your case you had a short, thus your load was whatever the battery could produce.

LED lights are great - lots of light for low power use. Enjoy.

Jon
 

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